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Camshaft Synchronizer Question 4.0 OHV


239

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I’ve got the infamous camshaft synchronizer squeaking sound on cold starts. I had a shop replace the lower intake and camshaft synchronizer gaskets last week and the truck has developed a squeaking sound in the rear of the engine. I took the belt off and the sound is still there. The mechanic tells me they just marked the position of the synchronizer and put it back the same way after replacing the o ring.

Isn’t there a procedure for reinstalling it? They’re telling me that the sound is caused by the age of the synchronizer but I’m not so sure since it never did it before.
 


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Runnin'OnEmpty

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There's an alignment tool that's "required" for installing the synchro..
However, the squeaking is caused by the steel synchro shaft binding
on it's brass bushing, because of lack of lubrication and wear.

Unfortunately, the shop should have replaced the synchro when everything
was apart, instead of reinstalling the old one. The job will have to be done
over, and I recommend a genuine Ford part. The aftermarket brands seem
to fail prematurely...
 




239

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They've been fixing my Explorer for years now so I’m willing to give them the benefit of the doubt. However I’m wondering if simply marking it and trusting it’s put back in exactly the same position is safe.

Unfortunately, the shop should have replaced the synchro when everything
was apart, instead of reinstalling the old one. The job will have to be done
over, and I recommend a genuine Ford part. The aftermarket brands seem
to fail prematurely...
I told them the exact same thing when I called today. But they didn’t tell me about the synchronizer’s condition until everything was already back together. Apparently it looked worn and corroded. I would have rather paid an extra $200 for a motorcraft replacement than have the job repeated. Anyway sorry for the wall of text. They’re going to attempt to replace the synchronizer without pulling the lower intake again tomorrow. We’ll see how that goes.
 




EB4X

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It can be done with just the upper intake off.... probably could even leave the fuel rail in place as well... easier if lower's off but not a huge deal.
Yeah....just marking before removal and then using synch tool to keep "rotor" part from turning during install is all that's necessary..as long as rotor is still pointing to same spot it was prior to removal all's good......no need to put number 1 on TDC.... people do that for extra peace of mind as secondary reference point -- this being on the 97 and up.... on 95, 96 putting on TDC is necessary part of procedure to dial in correctly with the visual vane/needle type.
 
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239

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It can be done with just the upper intake off.... probably could even leave the fuel rail in place as well... easier if lower's off but not a huge deal.
Yeah....just marking before removal and then using synch tool to keep "rotor" part from turning during install is all that's necessary..as long as rotor is still pointing to same spot it was prior to removal all's good......no need to put number 1 on TDC.... people do that for extra peace of mind as secondary reference point...
Good to know. May just be one of those cases where the part stops working because it was disturbed.
 




410Fortune

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how many days was the explorer in the shop, meaning how many days was the cam synch out of the engine?
If it had a chance to dry out
They should have soaked it in motor oil while it was out and before re installation

Yes they can drop it back in the same position as long as the engine is not turned over, this is common practice. You onl;y need the alignment tool if the cam synchro is being installed new and the old position cannot be verified or if the engine was rotated while the synch was out.

good news for a 2000 model year you can still buy a NEW FORD cam synchronizer and install it, do not trust aftermarket parts
Maybe they will give a discount since the part is now showing signs of being worn out after they R&R it

All they have to do is remove the upper intake plenum, R&R then new synchronizer and then replace the upper plenum
The EGR O ring and intake plenum O rings will still be good since they were just replaced.

I know if this was my shop I would not charge you much for labor if you buy the new Ford part so we could get that new noise sorted out, maybe $80? Takes me about an hour to R&R the intake and new synchronizer on a 2000 model as long as their aare no issues!! (Issues like some of the aftermarket synchronizers actually will not FIT in the engine)
 
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239

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how many days was the explorer in the shop, meaning how many days was the cam synch out of the engine?
If it had a chance to dry out
They should have soaked it in motor oil while it was out and before re installation

Yes they can drop it back in the same position as long as the engine is not turned over, this is common practice. You onl;y need the alignment tool if the cam synchro is being installed new and the old position cannot be verified or if the engine was rotated while the synch was out.

good news for a 2000 model year you can still buy a NEW FORD cam synchronizer and install it, do not trust aftermarket parts
Maybe they will give a discount since the part is now showing signs of being worn out after they R&R it

All they have to do is remove the upper intake plenum, R&R then new synchronizer and then replace the upper plenum
The EGR O ring and intake plenum O rings will still be good since they were just replaced.

I know if this was my shop I would not charge you much for labor if you buy the new Ford part so we could get that new noise sorted out, maybe $80? Takes me about an hour to R&R the intake and new synchronizer on a 2000 model as long as their aare no issues!! (Issues like some of the aftermarket synchronizers actually will not FIT in the engine)
It was out for a day at the most. I’ll definitely be getting the ford part.
 




239

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Just to update: The noise was being caused by the synchronizer after all. It stopped making the noise a few days before it was replaced, which is strange since the synchronizer felt like it was close to falling apart. The original part had a lot of play in it and you could feel metal on metal grinding when you turned it by hand.

I got the replacement part from Rock Auto. The part on the synchronizer didn’t match the part on the box, but that didn’t cause any issues. Thanks to everyone that helped out.

7C280D2C-6D3A-4BD8-80D7-28100211DE9F.jpeg

22618389-3B87-4F00-AC57-6B19D74CA8FD.jpeg
 




410Fortune

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Nice!
 




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