Camshaft Syncronizer replacement

[fropiler]

Hello!

After spending much time on the forums learning about this process, I wanted to start a new thread. I hope that is OK.

1996 Explorer 5.0 CEL code P040. mileage 165k.

I pulled the sensor to find the magnet had come loose from the cap and bent the vane on the synchronizer. The sensor itself is toast. The half moon vane is still intact but bent enough (also toast) so that the alignment tool won't easily fit, although it is obvious what position it would have to be in order for the tool to fit. I'm really wanting to use this method with the tool to achieve TDC. The traditional way scares me. I'm mechanically inclined, but I don't do it for a living. Am I asking for trouble by doing it this way?

I want to thank the member who suggested using an allen wrench on the power steering unit to turn things. Very helpful.


What I am finding is that 2 different replacement Syncro's won't quite fit perfectly seated. I have a Cardone reman and a new Richporter. Neither will seat snugly. The old motorcraft plops right in and seats perfectly. Too bad it's shot!

Here's the rub: Richporter $55.00 complete with alignment tool. Not seating.
Cardone reman no tool but about the same price and rersult. New Motorcraft on order 168.00!

I'm hanging on to both aftermarket parts until I get the Motorcraft in hand so I can use the tool before I return them. But doesn't it seem strange that both new parts won't seat completely while the old original part will?

The TDC thing is bugging me. I was unable to get the tool on the old sync prior to removal but noted the orientation of the damaged vane and moved it to where the tool would have fit if not for the damage. I'm not sure that is going to be good enough. Can I get by with using the tool to install the new one in the same position as the old one when it came out? or now that it's out, should I just buck up and figure out how to find TDC compression stroke cylinder1 and install the new one with the tool?

Thanks for all the valuable input you folks provide here!
Ed

 

[crunchie_frog]

The cardone and richporter should seat. Just wiggle it down, maybe you should try a little oil for lubrication to help it slide in more easily. For any of these, I would find tdc and use the special tool. If the engine has not been rotated at all since you removed the old one and if you know the exact position of the half moon on the old one when it was in the engine and if you can replace the new one exactly in the same position, then you should be okay, but why not be 100% sure it is installed correctly and put the engine at tdc and use the special tool.

 

[shucker1]

The cardone and richporter should seat. Just wiggle it down, maybe you should try a little oil for lubrication to help it slide in more easily. For any of these, I would find tdc and use the special tool. If the engine has not been rotated at all since you removed the old one and if you know the exact position of the half moon on the old one when it was in the engine and if you can replace the new one exactly in the same position, then you should be okay, but why not be 100% sure it is installed correctly and put the engine at tdc and use the special tool.

I agree with Crunchie Frog.

Best to get the engine back to #1 TDC then reinstall the syncro and do the job right.

As for the new unit not seating is there any build up down inside the block that may prevent the new unit from dropping in completely? The new O Rings on it may be a little bigger causing excess resistance. Oil them up real good so they slide.

 

[Turdle]

I kinda wish you'd posted in an existing thread. It is easier for the next person to find information that way

I will quote from another thread on this subject

Top Dead Center=TDC

The piston will arrive at TDC twice in one complete cycle-once for the combustion stroke-once for the end of the exhaust stroke-
you need it at TDC for the compressoin, or combustion cycle-

the easiest method is to remove the spark plugs-so the engine will freely spin
Now-if you push you thumb over the #1 spark plug hole while a helper turns the crank pulley, you will feel a squirt of air COMING OUT-when you feel this positive pressure, you are on the compression stroke, and the piston is moving up to TDC-
Now look at the crankshaft pulley-there will be some timing marks
slowly rotate the engine (clockwise) until the 0 degree mark lines up with the pointer tab. You are now at TDC ( or very close to it)

If you go past the mark-you must rotate the engine 2 complete revolutions to gain TDC compression stroke again-

Just remember-the camshaft rotates once for every 2 revolutions of the crankshaft.
Compression stroke TDC is only achieved every 2 revolutions of the Crank shaft.

 

[shucker1]

My bad.

Hit me with a rolled up news paper and put me in the yard!

 

[fropiler]

It's done.

I did as was suggested and oiled the ring, wiggled things around a bit and it (Cardone reman) dropped right in. NO force was necessary!! That saved some cash. Thanks for the suggestions!

When it dropped, it appeared to be be close to the original position but not quite close enough for me so I tried again shooting for one more tooth over. It landed perfectly. I had already taken the plug out of #1 cylinder in anticipation of needing to do this the hard (correct) way but couldn't resist seeing if I got it right. So I put the plug back in and fired it up to see what would happen.

Fired right up, idles very smoothly and runs very good. NO check engine light and no noise. Feeling very lucky and $100.00 better off for not having to pay the cost of the Motorcraft, I decided to change the plugs after getting a look at # 1. Long story short, all new plugs and wires. They where all original!

gap is supposed to be between 052 and 056 on the new plugs so I set accordingly. The old plugs had gaps of between 080 and 095. Safe to say they were long overdue.

I just bought this truck for my son as his first vehicle so I don't know for sure how well it ran prior to this, (Only drove it about 10 miles home and couldn't put off finding out the CEL code) but it certainly runs good now!

I'm thinking that the information on this board, and about a day of my time, probably saved me on the order of 600 to 900 dollars. I'll tell you something you probably already know: The plugs and wires took way more time than the CPS replacement. (not counting the hours I spent researching how to do the CPS replacement) Plus I wouldn't have known about the Dorman issues on this part.

The only thing left now is the test of time... (No pun intended)

 

[crunchie_frog]

Nice work. Since it is your son driving, some things you might want to consider looking at 165K miles if you have not already.

1. How are the brakes and brake fluid? I would want to be sure the brakes all are in good shape with fresh brake fluid.
2. How is the parking brake? Lots of these rust out or are not adjusted correctly.
3. How are the ball joints and shocks? If original ball joints could be in pretty bad shape.
4. How about the spare tire? Does it have one and can you lower and raise it and are all the tire change tools in the car?
5. How about the fuel filter? A plugged one could cause hard starting, hesitation and possible fuel pump failure.

My son and daughter both drive these 5.0s and I feel they are very safe vehicles but they do need attention to keep them that way.

 

[shucker1]

Excellent, Glad we could help.

For future reference.

Yesterday there was a "Sticky" placed in the 95-01 Explorer section under stock Explorers.

It is a full write up on "How To" done by another member, Turdle, who is well respected on this forum for his knowledge.

 

[Bretton65]

Thanks to everyone who has posted on this subject and on how to do it. The part about putting the pointer at 0 degrees is hard to find and I appreciate that it was posted by Turdle. When I redid mine on my 1999 ohv last summer I did not know that TDC meant not only should the piston be at the top of the stroke but also that there was the 0 degree mark. It was driving me crazy that there was so much play at the top of the stroke (the vane would rotate quite a bit). After redoing it a couple of times I happened to notice the 0-10 mark on the pulley and guessed that it should be at 0. I am relieved to see this posting that confirms it should be at 0 degrees.

 

[fropiler]

Nice work. Since it is your son driving, some things you might want to consider looking at 165K miles if you have not already.

1. How are the brakes and brake fluid? I would want to be sure the brakes all are in good shape with fresh brake fluid.
2. How is the parking brake? Lots of these rust out or are not adjusted correctly.
3. How are the ball joints and shocks? If original ball joints could be in pretty bad shape.
4. How about the spare tire? Does it have one and can you lower and raise it and are all the tire change tools in the car?
5. How about the fuel filter? A plugged one could cause hard starting, hesitation and possible fuel pump failure.

My son and daughter both drive these 5.0s and I feel they are very safe vehicles but they do need attention to keep them that way.

Crunchie,

Thanks for the info. This is a South Carolina truck. I'm astonished at how rust-free and nice the exterior is! It was owned by a retired couple so it's not beat, but I do plan on checking the items you mentioned and:

1. Tranny flush
2. Coolant flush
3. Rear diff fluid change (If I can figure out how that's done, not seeing add or drain plugs)
4. Wheel bearings and grease in general (hearing some howling - might just be tire noise)

Already changed the air filter and got a can of that CRC MAF spray. For those new to this, the MAF is located in the same housing as the filter.

suspension and front end feel solid and tight.

The vehicle had already been started and was running when I got there to look at it. I was a little pissed because I wanted to hear the engine from a cold start. People do this to cover engine noise (lifters maybe?) when first started. The noise goes away completely after about 20 seconds.

Overall a very nice and clean unit that need probably needs every fluid imaginable changed.

 

[fropiler]

Excellent, Glad we could help.

For future reference.

Yesterday there was a "Sticky" placed in the 95-01 Explorer section under stock Explorers.

It is a full write up on "How To" done by another member, Turdle, who is well respected on this forum for his knowledge.

Indeed. Turdle doesn't know this until now but he has been my compass on this topic throughout all the information packed threads and posts. A big thanks to Turdle and everyone who has contributed to this topic!

 

[crunchie_frog]

Fropiler,

Rear diff does not have a drain plug, you have to remove the housing cover. There is a fill plug on the driver side near the top. Also, looks like a good list.

Yes, we get snow about every other yr here in SC, most folks just stay off the road so sounds like you have a nice vehicle to work with. My son is in school at Carleton in Minnesota in Northfield so it is succumbing to some rust.

Sometimes the ticking noise can be the exhaust manifold as they are bad to crack or leak at the mate to the block. Good luck with your work on your 5.0.

 

[bobflood]

Crunchie,
3. Rear diff fluid change (If I can figure out how that's done, not seeing add or drain plugs)

A word to the wise - make SURE that you can get the differential fill plug out (either a 3/8 or 1/2 drive fits it) BEFORE you remove the diff cover to drain it. Real bummer to pull the cover and drain the fluid, then not be able to get the fill plug out! Good luck.

 

[fropiler]

A word to the wise - make SURE that you can get the differential fill plug out (either a 3/8 or 1/2 drive fits it) BEFORE you remove the diff cover to drain it. Real bummer to pull the cover and drain the fluid, then not be able to get the fill plug out! Good luck.

That sounds like most excellent advice. Thanks!

 

[fropiler]

I did as was suggested and oiled the ring, wiggled things around a bit and it (Cardone reman) dropped right in. NO force was necessary!! That saved some cash. Thanks for the suggestions!

When it dropped, it appeared to be be close to the original position but not quite close enough for me so I tried again shooting for one more tooth over. It landed perfectly. I had already taken the plug out of #1 cylinder in anticipation of needing to do this the hard (correct) way but couldn't resist seeing if I got it right. So I put the plug back in and fired it up to see what would happen.

Fired right up, idles very smoothly and runs very good. NO check engine light and no noise. Feeling very lucky and $100.00 better off for not having to pay the cost of the Motorcraft, I decided to change the plugs after getting a look at # 1. Long story short, all new plugs and wires. They where all original!

gap is supposed to be between 052 and 056 on the new plugs so I set accordingly. The old plugs had gaps of between 080 and 095. Safe to say they were long overdue.

I just bought this truck for my son as his first vehicle so I don't know for sure how well it ran prior to this, (Only drove it about 10 miles home and couldn't put off finding out the CEL code) but it certainly runs good now!

I'm thinking that the information on this board, and about a day of my time, probably saved me on the order of 600 to 900 dollars. I'll tell you something you probably already know: The plugs and wires took way more time than the CPS replacement. (not counting the hours I spent researching how to do the CPS replacement) Plus I wouldn't have known about the Dorman issues on this part.

The only thing left now is the test of time... (No pun intended)

Well, the test of time yielded a CEL 401 code EGR. (Came on after driving up a steep hill.) Is there any possibility that it's related to any of the work I've just done?

I've looked at the threads about replacing the egr valve and it sounds like a major pain that may or may not make the light go out. Other than emissions, is there any major consequence of ignoring the 401 code and just driving the vehicle? it runs perfectly fine.

Thanks.

 

[Bretton65]

Is it the 0401 code? I had the 0401 code pop up in my old Ranger and Explorer. Both times a new Motorcraft DPFE and hoses fixed the problem. RockAuto has both. Here is some more info.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164517