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Can’t get it running!

ld50

Oh, the money you`ll blow
Elite Explorer
Joined
April 16, 2002
Messages
3,330
Reaction score
30
City, State
British Columbia
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 4 dr 4x4 manual XL.
Hello fellow Explorer enthusiaststs!

So my boy has custody of the Explorer now.
He was out earlier in the year and she died. I went there and it seemed as if the fuel pump wasn’t powering, but it would crank, with spark.
We had to get it towed home and then it immediately started, then didn’t anymore.

We read on the internet that the check engine light should come on when you turn ignition on, and it does not do that.

We thought maybe it was something to do with the ignition switch, and replaced that, then cleaned up and pretty well redid all the wiring connections to battery, in case there was some sort of grounding issue somewhere..

I’m not sure if this check engine light not coming on with ignition is an indicator of some other problem, but I did confirm today the fuel pump does not seem to power up when ignition is on?

The next step will likely be to replace the fuel pump, assuming it is just a fuel pump problem, but if anyone has any troubleshooting ideas I am missing here, I’d sure appreciate it. It’s a bit confusing, lol.
Want to get out on the trails with my boy 😔

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There's some relays, fuses and an interia switch, have you ruled them out?
 






Check fuel pressure if possible so you do not replace the pump strainer and filter just to find out it wasn’t the pump

Test the electrical signal to the pump

When you first turn the key the fuel pump should prime for 1-2 seconds
The pcm relay will energize and then the fuel pump relay will click and prime the pump

The computer controls the pump by grounding the fuel pump relay
The power to the pump comes from a fuse, travels through the relay, then through the inertia dwitxh and then back to the fuel pump via a few harness and connectors

The easiest way to determine if the pump is running is remove the fuel fill cap
Put your ear to it
Have someone turn the key
Listen for the pump to run
If it runs this rules out a power issue
Next step is to check pressure at the rail
If low pressure inspect fuel filter and plan to replace the in tank pump

The check engine light should illuminate when you first turn the key to on”
If it does not then the bulb is likely out
Start there

You can also do a simple spark test to make sure the pcm crank sensor cam sensor and ignition is all working

Then there is the 50/50 test while cranking try some ether
If it catches and fires up for a second you know it is not spark and you have a fuel issue
 






It looks like the check engine does not light unless cranking, then lights up.
I do not believe the pump is priming when ignition first on.
I’m kind of suspecting the fuel pump as being the culprit but the check engine light thing is confusing.
Thanks for info, I will have a look later today with this info in mind.
There's some relays, fuses and an interia switch, have you ruled them out?
 






It looks like the check engine does not light unless cranking, then lights up.
I do not believe the pump is priming when ignition first on.
I’m kind of suspecting the fuel pump as being the culprit but the check engine light thing is confusing.
Thanks for info, I will have a look later today with this info in mind.
There's some relays, fuses and an interia switch, have you ruled them out?
yes sir, checked inertia and swapped relays
 






Ok so we tried Ether, and she ran for a second. I’m really thinking it’s the fuel pump, but we are going to research what prong has power when it is getting juice to run. We did check that connector near pump when this first happened and I recall one of the prongs being hot -lighting test light, but I assume one of the other prongs would need to be hot for that prime to happen, so we would have to test while turning ignition on and off? -we only tested it with ignition on.
 






Ok so we tried Ether, and she ran for a second. I’m really thinking it’s the fuel pump, but we are going to research what prong has power when it is getting juice to run. We did check that connector near pump when this first happened and I recall one of the prongs being hot -lighting test light, but I assume one of the other prongs would need to be hot for that prime to happen, so we would have to test while turning ignition on and off? -we only tested it with ignition on.
 






Well we tried a new fuel pump just to see. Didn’t help.
I reckon it’s something else, argh
 






Is the pump running?
I posted above how to check with your ear

If it fires w ether then it is not air or spark it is a fuel issue

Verify pump is running and primes
Check fuel rail pressure should be around 36 psi
 






I'd like to step back.

Key on check engine light should be on, indicating ecm is on. No ecm power=no fuel pump power.

Check ecm relay and fuse. Might even crack ecm open and take a look inside.
 






Have you ever figured it out?
 






Hey all, sorry to leave anyone hanging, and I appreciate the replies!
Update:

We tested all the relays today and tried to see where a possible wiring issue is, or where a signal was not being sent by the ECM to power up the fuel system.

I learned that the ECM will ground the fuel pump relay to allow it to power up.
We verified that there is 12v constant power going to the relay.
We verified there is another 12 volts going to the relay to actuate it when ignition is turned on, but it is not “clicking”. ( it is the only relay that does not “click” when the ignition is turned on. Verified by removing all of the others and then listening for it.)

So logic dictates the ground is not being applied by the ECM.

For kicks we grabbed a little wire and made a jumper from the ground, just stuck it in the socket and reinstalled the relay then applied to battery negative terminal.

We turned ignition on with it grounded and the fuel system came to life.
* note* check engine light still not on with ignition.

We then tried starting it, no go.
Since we know we have spark and fuel at the fuel rail, we must assume the fuel injectors are not powering up, which must be also controlled through the ECM.

Im 90% sure the ECM is the culprit.

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Troubleshooting is enough to make you pull your hair out.
 






Okay just went through this

Check for power at the eec relay
You should have constant battery power at one terminal, this comes directly from a
Large 30 amp fuse in the pjb

Ground at another

2nd switched Power at other terminal when ignition switch turned with key to on or run

And the 4th wire is power out to the pcm

This second power wire comes directly from ignition switch in steering column through a 30 Amp fuse in the interior fuse panel (fuse 19 on a 98 ranger) , then to the eec power diode in the power junction box under the hood. Then finally to the relay

The eec relay is what powers the computer
The computer primes the fuel pump
Via relay and also controls the check engine light

Also the same 30 amp interior fuse (19) also sends power directly to the coil Packs


The reason you do not have a check engine light and the pcm is not powering the fuel pump is because the pcm is not being powered through its fuse / relay and or from the ignition switch

You get the check engine ought to work and 12v+ at the red wire at coil packs when the key is turned to on, then there is a good chance you will have fuel and spark and she will run
 






Okay just went through this

Check for power at the eec relay
You should have constant battery power at one terminal, this comes directly from a
Large 30 amp fuse in the pjb

Ground at another

2nd switched Power at other terminal when ignition switch turned with key to on or run

And the 4th wire is power out to the pcm

This second power wire comes directly from ignition switch in steering column through a 30 Amp fuse in the interior fuse panel (fuse 19 on a 98 ranger) , then to the eec power diode in the power junction box under the hood. Then finally to the relay

The eec relay is what powers the computer
The computer primes the fuel pump
Via relay and also controls the check engine light

Also the same 30 amp interior fuse (19) also sends power directly to the coil Packs


The reason you do not have a check engine light and the pcm is not powering the fuel pump is because the pcm is not being powered through its fuse / relay and or from the ignition switch

You get the check engine ought to work and 12v+ at the red wire at coil packs when the key is turned to on, then there is a good chance you will have fuel and spark and she will run
This is great, a little bit to unpack here..

I checked power at the relay socket for EEC, there is constant power there and then power when the ignition is on to the relay tang which opens the relay circuit.
So it seems like there is power being sent at least from the relay.

I didn’t personally check interior fuses, but if power is turning that relay on, I had assumed power was going to the EEC and that was what turned it on?
Is there another fused circuit sent to the eec other than the relay circuit that needs to work?

I suppose I could verify that the eec relay is actually sending power.

I did poke all the terminals with my test light to see if there was power coming out of the wiring harness at eec. Thing is there is a bunch of points with power there, I just don’t know what any of them are for.


-I was calling it ECM earlier 😐

Thanks!
 






PCM eec and ecm all same thing just different terminology and we go back and forth because ford wend back and forth over the years

So if the eec relay s clicking and sending power to the pcm then we need to make sure it is arriving at the computer
All wires leading from the truck to the pcm pass through the square 42’pin connector

Good idea to inspect it

We need a pcm diagram for your yearand model verify power is arriving at the computer
(The power wires are red with green and yellow with white typically)
If the power is there and still no cel
It Could be as simple as a bad bulb for the cel or it could be the pcm is bad

At that point you can remove it and take it apart inspect it see if any visible damage inside

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves
First check all interior fuses
Then check if you have 12v+ at the red wire at coil pack with the key on
 












Exactly

The 30
Amp fuse interior (19) is ignition switch power heads directly to the coil packs and to the eec power diode, then to the eec relay. He said the eec relay was “clicking”
With ignition switch so this would mean he indeed has power there with key “on”
But it should be verified with a meter

By checking for battery power at the coil
Pack red wire we can verify;
Fuse 19 is good, ignition switch is working, power is making it through the 42
Pin connector and into the engine harness.
 









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So that leads into the next big question, the number on the EEC does not seem to match up with anything we can see for sale.
Do we look for an exact match, a match of part of the numbers? Is there a trick to finding a replacement eec?
Thanks all!

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