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Can I bypass..

M. Jackson

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Can I bypass the thermostat bypass hose that is going into the water pump.. ?The nipple had rusted out. So I was wondering if I could just bypass it like you would the heater core? Would it still get water from the heater core hose.? If not, looking like I'll have to buy a whole new water pump because of a little nipple. Maybe I'll clamp the hose to some sort of fitting stick the other end of fitting into water pump and JB Weld them together.?
 



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410Fortune

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Good question but first

Is this your 2001 Explorer?
Is it a V6?

Help us help you!!!
 






Tech By Trade

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Water pumps are like 30 bucks from rock auto and super easy to change. You can rent the wrench for the fan clutch for free from your advanced auto parts. I am assuming its a v6.
 






MrQ

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^Seconded. Patches like that rarely hold and it's better to just get it fixed right. These V6's love to pop head gaskets when they get hot, so why take the chance?
 












imp

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Can I bypass the thermostat bypass hose that is going into the water pump.. ?The nipple had rusted out. So I was wondering if I could just bypass it like you would the heater core? Would it still get water from the heater core hose.? If not, looking like I'll have to buy a whole new water pump because of a little nipple. Maybe I'll clamp the hose to some sort of fitting stick the other end of fitting into water pump and JB Weld them together.?
@M. Jackson
Seems everybody missed it: That bypass hose is EXTREMELY important: It allows circulation of water throughout the engine whenever the thermostat is STILL CLOSED. Blocking it will cause hot spots locally, possibly enough to cause local boiling and excess pressure build-up. Yes, most thermostats have an itty-bitty hole in their face: It's purpose to to help bleed out air when refilling the engine with coolant. imp
 






MrQ

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@M. Jackson
Seems everybody missed it: That bypass hose is EXTREMELY important: It allows circulation of water throughout the engine whenever the thermostat is STILL CLOSED. Blocking it will cause hot spots locally, possibly enough to cause local boiling and excess pressure build-up. Yes, most thermostats have an itty-bitty hole in their face: It's purpose to to help bleed out air when refilling the engine with coolant. imp

We didn't miss it, we just addressed the question with a simple answer: "Don't bypass. Replace water pump"
 






M. Jackson

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Good question but first

Is this your 2001 Explorer?
Is it a V6?

Help us help you!!!
Yes sir it is a 2001, but it's a V8 5.0. I figured out that the purpose of the hose is so that water can bypasd the thermostat when closer to allow coolant to be pumped thru the engine. So don't believe that it can be bypassed. I found a small tube that I put into the water pump and clamped into the hose for now.. still has a little leak, but way better than before.. should get me thru for about a week until I can get a new water pump..
 






M. Jackson

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@M. Jackson
Seems everybody missed it: That bypass hose is EXTREMELY important: It allows circulation of water throughout the engine whenever the thermostat is STILL CLOSED. Blocking it will cause hot spots locally, possibly enough to cause local boiling and excess pressure build-up. Yes, most thermostats have an itty-bitty hole in their face: It's purpose to to help bleed out air when refilling the engine with coolant. imp
 






410Fortune

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okay so it is a V8
The waterpump on the V8 is still pretty easy to change with one exception, there are 2 bolts that are long enough to go through the waterpump and through the timing cover and into the engine block. These two bolts can break
Hopefully they do not, but unfortunately for V8 owners often they do, making a simple water pump change become more difficult.

The bypass hose is important, it is also the weakest point in the cooling system and they always split first before anything else shows signs of age.
So get a new waterpump AND a new bypass hose, the one they sell these days is "cut to fit"

Do you have a torch? Of any sort? Even a MAP gas torch from like Home depot can really help your chances.
Not a bad idea to get your hands on a small torch
The AC condenser is attached to the radiator with 3 big plastic clips, this can be a PITA to un mount if you have never done it before and plan to keep the AC charged.
You will need a fan removal tool as well
Otherwise it is pretty straight forward LOL
 






M. Jackson

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Hey appreciate it bud..I had done some research last night and found that out. . So I came up with a quick fix for now..
 






M. Jackson

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okay so it is a V8
The waterpump on the V8 is still pretty easy to change with one exception, there are 2 bolts that are long enough to go through the waterpump and through the timing cover and into the engine block. These two bolts can break
Hopefully they do not, but unfortunately for V8 owners often they do, making a simple water pump change become more difficult.

The bypass hose is important, it is also the weakest point in the cooling system and they always split first before anything else shows signs of age.
So get a new waterpump AND a new bypass hose, the one they sell these days is "cut to fit"

Do you have a torch? Of any sort? Even a MAP gas torch from like Home depot can really help your chances.
Not a bad idea to get your hands on a small torch
The AC condenser is attached to the radiator with 3 big plastic clips, this can be a PITA to un mount if you have never done it before and plan to keep the AC charged.
You will need a fan removal tool as well
Otherwise it is pretty straight forward LOL
Bud I really appreciate your words of wisdom.. Will put them to good use..
 






koda2000

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Short answer to you question is no. Considering your old W/P corroded I'd bet you're going to have a difficult time with rusty W/P bolts. This can make a relatively easy job a nightmare.
 












410Fortune

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OKay so lets say they both break off
You have two choices:
1. Put waterpump on with two broken studs. If you go this route (I have more then once!). Use the best silicon you can find for cooling systems, make sure both surfaces are surgically clean and dry and use a thin layer of your fav silicon to sandwich the water pump gasket. Firm up the bolts nearest to the broken studs without breaking them.
Put lots of blue silicon around the broken stud area, so it fills the empty holes in the waterpump
Say a prayer that it does not leak for a long long time

2. (the better option) Remove the timing cover, plan to replace it with a new one.
By the time you remove the timing cover over both of those broken studs more times then not you will have bitched up the cover pretty good from prying.
This is a more involved job, but one I also do alot (I specialize in 5.0's)
Ebay has a aftermarket timing cover for the explorer 5.0 for around $60-80. It works great.
You will also need a new front main seal and timing cover gasket (felpro or Ford)
a large 3 jaw puller to get the crank damper/balancer off
Oil change and fresh coolant
Permatex ultra grey
Permatex blue for cooling systems

With the timing cover off you will have a good amount of broken stud to work with to try and un thread from the block.
You will need to replace the two broken bolts, they get thread sealer on them when they go back in (Not silicon, not anti seize, thread sealer only)
You will also need to change the oil as you will get coolant in the oil pan changing the timing cover
What I do is start by draining the oil and leave the drain plug out for the whole timing cover procedure
I also use clean rags to make sure I do not get gasket material or anything else in my oil pan while it is exposed
Timing cover gasket goes on dry except for the lower oil pan part, it gets some ultra grey in the corners. as you have to cut the factory oil pan gasket a bit.
 






roscoe 0202

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sorry but there four long bolts two on each side on top and bottom of water ports from pump to block
roscoe
 






M. Jackson

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OKay so lets say they both break off
You have two choices:
1. Put waterpump on with two broken studs. If you go this route (I have more then once!). Use the best silicon you can find for cooling systems, make sure both surfaces are surgically clean and dry and use a thin layer of your fav silicon to sandwich the water pump gasket. Firm up the bolts nearest to the broken studs without breaking them.
Put lots of blue silicon around the broken stud area, so it fills the empty holes in the waterpump
Say a prayer that it does not leak for a long long time

2. (the better option) Remove the timing cover, plan to replace it with a new one.
By the time you remove the timing cover over both of those broken studs more times then not you will have bitched up the cover pretty good from prying.
This is a more involved job, but one I also do alot (I specialize in 5.0's)
Ebay has a aftermarket timing cover for the explorer 5.0 for around $60-80. It works great.
You will also need a new front main seal and timing cover gasket (felpro or Ford)
a large 3 jaw puller to get the crank damper/balancer off
Oil change and fresh coolant
Permatex ultra grey
Permatex blue for cooling systems

With the timing cover off you will have a good amount of broken stud to work with to try and un thread from the block.
You will need to replace the two broken bolts, they get thread sealer on them when they go back in (Not silicon, not anti seize, thread sealer only)
You will also need to change the oil as you will get coolant in the oil pan changing the timing cover
What I do is start by draining the oil and leave the drain plug out for the whole timing cover procedure
I also use clean rags to make sure I do not get gasket material or anything else in my oil pan while it is exposed
Timing cover gasket goes on dry except for the lower oil pan part, it gets some ultra grey in the corners. as you have to cut the factory oil pan gasket a bit.
I do pray the bolts don't break.!
 






M. Jackson

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Thanks alot.. Hoping the bolts don't break.!
 






M. Jackson

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^Seconded. Patches like that rarely hold and it's better to just get it fixed right. These V6's love to pop head gaskets when they get hot, so why take the chance?
I can remove the thermostat.. But I'm not..I actually put in a small tube clamped from the hose and going into the water pump.. so good so far. .will be getting the water pump Sunday. It's a V8 5.0
 



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koda2000

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I do pray the bolts don't break.!

Can't hurt to pray. In my situation I wish they did break, because the final bolt's head rounded off. If it had broken instead it would have made the job much easier. I was able to get the other 3 long bolts our w/out breaking, but I had to drill small holes in the timing cover and soak them in a mixture of ATF and acetone to get them to break free. Worst repair I've ever had to perform on an Expl (and I've done a lot of repairs on the 6 of them we've owned). Next time I have to replace a V8 water pump I'm having my mechanic buddy do the work. He only charges $125 if I supply the new W/P and antifreeze. Worth every penny.
 






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