can I use the factory sub with my cd player?

[calman]

Hi all,

re: '95 Eddie Baurer Explorer

I purchased a new deck (Pioneer MP3/CD player) which has powered RCA outputs for a sub.

I installed the deck to my speakers and power antenna by bypassing the factory amp. This works good.

1. Now, can I use the factory sub???
2. Can I just cut the two wires going to the fac sub amp and tap into those, or do I have to use the fac sub amp in some way?


Thanks in advance!


Cheers,
calman

 

[calman]

ok, this is what I've found out so far through some testing...

My Deck (Pioneer DEH-P7400MP) does one or the other:

1. Connect RCA jacks from Deck to Sub Amp and let the amp power the sub

OR

2. Connect the rear speaker output to the sub and power the sub that way, however I loose rear speakers. I've tested this with the Fac Sub and works just fine. But not my choice....


Now, has anyone interfaced into the Ford Sub Amp? There are three plugs into the amp:

- one going to the subwoofer (2 wires)
- one with +12v constant and ground
- one with 3 wires (white, black and red)

Assuming I interface into the 3 wire connector. Any ideas????

 

[Alec]

Unless you get a converter you won't be able to use RCAs with the factory sub amp. My suggestion is to connect both the sub amp's inputs and the rear speaker inputs to the HU's rear line-level outs. You can connect both together to the HU without a problem, and you'd have all 3 speakers. I'd connect the sub to the rear driver speaker wires.

 

[Lemondrop]

I built RCA's for my 95 . I installed a CD player and EQ in a double DIN stack in the factory dash-hole . I plugged my RCA's into the EQ from the CD and then built RCA's into a connector harness for installing aftermarket radios into the ford dash . Instead of hooking the "wires" of the car I hooked the RCA's . The line input's for the factory Ford amp are low-level just like a composite (RCA) output/input . So by doing this I did not have to bypass the factory amp(s)? and was able to replace the cassette deck with a CD player . Works great and allows me to adjust the tones to levels I like . You can buy the adapter I built from Scoche (I think it was them) or build it by soldering RCA's bought at Radio Shack to a radio-install kit wiring harness . I can remove the entire set-up with ease and reinstall the factory radio if I ever sell the truck , because I did not cut any factory wiring .
This may work to get you sub working again . If you have other amps for you new set-up , Im sure you could split the RCA's and jumper to the factory amp so it received a signal also . Just takes a little work and patience .

 

[calman]

Does anyone know the wire diagram for this connector?

There are two connectors in the dash, one for the power and one that that goes to the factory control box in the back. Showing below is the one going to the back....

8 wires
Photo here

 

[Lemondrop]

Did you install the CD player indash yet ? If so did you use a wiring kit ? If you have the wiring kit it should should what the wires are .

 

[calman]

funny...

I've been to all the audio shops here and they say "this wiring kit is the right one, this is all you need". The power adapter is right, but the data adapter is wrong.

I haven't found a kit that will connect into this particular connector, they keepo giving me the one for a 95+ premium sound system, it's close, but wrong size.

I tell them that it's a '95 Explorer Eddie Bauer with the "tuner" in the back.

Other audio shops by-pass the factory stuff, so nobody knows around here....

any suggestions?

I've started to trace/troubleshoot the 16 pin connector from the deck to the amp. It has 8 wires, some I've isolated their functions (+5, +12, ground), others are to be determined.

 

[calman]

Well I did it

I successfully by-passed the Main Amp and Tuner but made use of the Sub Amp and Subwoofer.

This is how it was done....

see photo

 

[Lemondrop]

Bigger pic would be nice