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cant find blower motor resistor....

Pokeman

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Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Stock V8 XLT
1998 stock v8 explorer.

Where can I find the blower motor resistor? I have a new one to swap it out. Please tell me exactly how to locate this part and swap. I am mechcanically declined. I really appreciate the help.

I searched the internet and the explorer with no luck. thanks again.
 



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Look at the HVAC plenum on the PS firewall. The blower resistor is in the plenum right next to the blower motor. It is held in by 2 screws and has a 4-wire connector.
 






Yes, it is below and to towards the drivers side of the blower motor. You may want to remove your cruise control servo (if equipped) to get a little more room to work. It is just one bolt on the lip of the fender to get the bracket off.
 






Look at the HVAC plenum on the PS firewall. The blower resistor is in the plenum right next to the blower motor. It is held in by 2 screws and has a 4-wire connector.

OK, so its located to the bottom right of the blower motor. if I am standing in front of the explorer looking under the hood, right?

I assume the blower motor is the large round thing on the PS of the firewall.

-whats the plenum?

- is it easiest to access it from the top of the engive or should I be underneath?

Anyone have a picture of it?
 






Access it from above. As mentioned in post 3, it is easier to work on the resistor if the Speed Control servo is unbolted and set aside. One bolt holds it to the inner fender apron.

There are several pictures of the blower in this thread. Next to it, you can see the 4 wire resistor connector.
 






First things first: Electronic Automatic Temperature Control, or the traditional 'three knobs' controls? Three knobs uses the resistor pack detailed above. EATC uses a digital speed controller in a different spot.
 






The 2nd gen Explorer EATC Blower Speed Control module mounts in the same location as the Blower Resistor for the manual A/C system.
 






So I've got a 97 EB 5.0, and I'm also having trouble with my automatic temp control. The fan only works on full, so I'm planning on changing out the resistor to see if this will fix the problem. I figured I should be able to find the resistor on the bottom right of the blower (from the front of the truck), but from what I've read several times here, the resistor might not be there...

Anyone offer any suggestions?

Thanks!
 






Im having the same problem with my 2000 explorer E.B
I will have to try to change the resistor aswell, does anyone know how the resistor looks like when its out of the truck?
 






Access it from above. As mentioned in post 3, it is easier to work on the resistor if the Speed Control servo is unbolted and set aside. One bolt holds it to the inner fender apron.

There are several pictures of the blower in this thread. Next to it, you can see the 4 wire resistor connector.



Thanks for posting this thread. Found my blower motor resistor on my 98 ford explorer xlt. Only problem is removing all the other stuff to get to it in 26 degree weather :(
 






I fixed mine this weekend. Heater - AC fan blower problem. The vehicle lost its lower or medium fan blower speeds, appeared dead until i cranked it up to the high setting. ----- I have 2001 Mercury Mountainner 5.0 V8, with automatic climate control. It uses a large transistor as the control element mounted in same type gizmo as would be the resistors. Resistors are on the vehicles without automatic temperature control, and having a dash selector switch with detented positions, about 4 of the speeds. The automatic models have a temperature readout, and red and blue buttons to raise or lower the target temperature. ------ You can look at the various Youtube videos for the prepwork of making room for this job, most models explorer or mountaineer similar---- Location: passenger side firewall and fender area of engine room. --- So, after moving/removing the various cootermounts, (Air box and hose, Criuse Control, Washer and Coolant tanks) one can then get at and remove the blower assembly. On mine the control element (on with a plug and two screws) was right below the blower. One must remove the blower to see what alls going on in there, such as dirt or corrosion buildups. Such would have to be cleaned to promote airflow. Be careful removing the plugs. If severe corrosion has occurred these might be stuck or damaged. Mine came off and were not damaged. ----- I took the control module (AKA blower resistor) inside to the workbench, removed the circuit board (was on with two screws) looked with a magnifier and found a corroded spot, after cleaning that, found a break in the copper trace. I bared it, tinned it (a soldering term) and then soldered a thin 28ga buss wire there to fix. Cleaning it again to remove rosin flux is in order. Then after cleaning and drying the board with some alcohol, i sprayed on two coats of clear varnish onto the solder side (to prevent future corrosion) I also tested the transistor and found it to be OK. This done with a digital meter, that has a "diode" test position on the selector. It tested OK. You can find online tutorials for all these items. If not comfortable with electronics, take it to a good electronics dude who can check it for you. Of course it would have to be a hacker kind of guy, as this module is not in the books anywhere. --------------I went a step further and disassembled the blower to clean, check and lube it (again not a job that can be done by anyone. I've been doing it a long time. If you break it you bought it.) (The end plate is staked; which means you have to unstake it. When finished you to have to restake it together. There's only one chance to do it right. A do-over will break off the tabs. Also the brushes upon reassembly have to be held on with string or a tie wrap. When in proper position you can then cut each string or wrap and pull it out, leaving the brushes snap to. -----Commutator wear will be apparent , but so long as there are no gaps, it'll still run. Of course real severe wear or broken brushes are a no go. That calls for new blower. Do not put new brushes on an old commutator. bad bad -------- All went well. I tested the blower with a spare battery. --------------- Put it all together today. I put silicone connector grease in the plugs to prevent any future corrosion. ------full function now restored. I have all the blower speeds. Saved somewhere around 160 dollar, hoping to get two more years out of it.
 






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