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Hey Guys... So I do not know much about cars BUT I have been learning. This car is literally older than I am.. So I am trying my best to get this car running to its optimum efficiency.

So CURRENT on going problem. STARTING the car is a bit*h. It takes me at least 2-4 turns to get this car to start. When the car is running and accelerating it is smooth. little to no problems.. when I start to slow down and get to a FULL stop the car starts shaking. It feels like its losing power. The battery meter goes from normal to low along with the RPM. After replacing the spark wires and hoses it seemed to stop shaking for a couple of days. The main improvement so far is that it doesn't stop when im at a red light or stop sign.
I am thinking maybe its the battery cables? Im at a loss guys. please help

I replaced so far:
Radiator and fan
Mass Air Flow Sensor
Camshaft sensor
Crankshaft sensor
EGR Sensor
Spark Plugs
Spark wires
Transmission oil changed along with filter
oil changed
fixed fuel pressure line that was disconnected
and a couple of hoses
used sea foam in fuel tank and intake
 



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swshawaii

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CEL or not, I'd check if you haven't done so yet.
Trouble codes "may" be stored in the computers memory that could possibly lead to your starting and idle issues. If no codes are found,
you're only out a paper clip and some time. If automatic, I've read the torque converter can cause similar issues. Do a search and GL.
 






natenkiki2004

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Sounds to me like the idle air control valve. It controls how much air gets into the engine for starting as well as how much air the engine gets when you let off the throttle completely. Stalling at a stop light could easily be the IAC. Try this; give a little bit of throttle when you try to start. If it fires right up, maybe look at the IAC.
 






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Sounds to me like the idle air control valve. It controls how much air gets into the engine for starting as well as how much air the engine gets when you let off the throttle completely. Stalling at a stop light could easily be the IAC. Try this; give a little bit of throttle when you try to start. If it fires right up, maybe look at the IAC.
WOW okay. Just did that and it started the car immediately. I was thinking that it could also be battery cables? The negative (black) that attaches to the battery has wires that are showing... could that also be a problem? Also weird but when I AM at a stop light, if I put the car in park it won't do that weird drop in battery and rpms... so idk if it is the transmission? So far no check engine light. Tried to do the keko test but it keeps giving me a dead battery.. nothing happens? It used to work. Not my first time doing it.. maybe a different paperclip?
Thank you for the help guys. Really appreciate it
 






natenkiki2004

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Battery cables on our 1st gens are always an issue but they can be burned and melted and still work (I know this from experience). Consider that a project down the road.

Putting the vehicle in park takes the load off the engine so it isn't struggling as much. Still could be the IAC valve if it's not opening enough or responding quickly enough, the load on the engine is too much at idle and will kill it. That's why more modern vehicles have power steering pressure switches to raise idle speed if you turn your steering wheel without moving. The load from that could otherwise kill the engine.

Watch my video on how to pull codes:
 






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That clip helped me out soo much. Okay so I did the first test without turning the engine on.. got 111, 111. Then 332, 416, 124 those repeated twice.

Now I have to say I HAVE NEVER done the test with the car running. So I turned it on. And it started the car then it died. Started it a total of 4 times and it ran. I did the brake test nothing happened and got the one blink to do the goose test and got codes 412, 167, repeated twice
 






natenkiki2004

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124 is about the TPS, I'd put that on hold right now and focus on the other two; 332 is about Insufficient EGR Flow and 416 is about the.... you guessed it, Idle Air Control Solenoid.

With the engine running, 412 is obvious, Cannot Control RPM During KOER High RPM Check. 167 is another code for TPS.


The TPS may be an issue but usually causes dropouts, sputtering when giving it the gas, things like that. It usually won't cause your main concern which is uncontrollable RPM and stalling. EGR and IAC most definitely will cause those issues. I don't know a ton about EGR, my 1994 has it but I've not had to mess with it. I believe there's a solid-state module to replace the EGR sensor, that might be a worthwhile investment along with making sure the passages (and vacuum lines) are clear. Regarding the IAC, take it off and hose the inside down with brake cleaner or let it soak in warm soapy water a while. Do take the motor off the back just in case, solvent/water may get in it and make things worse. I can't find the info on IAC solenoid resistance but you can ohm test the coil and see if it's within spec, I'm thinking maybe around 7-14 ohms? I'm probably way off on that. Basically, check it and see if it's shorted or has insanely high resistance.
 






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124 is about the TPS, I'd put that on hold right now and focus on the other two; 332 is about Insufficient EGR Flow and 416 is about the.... you guessed it, Idle Air Control Solenoid.

With the engine running, 412 is obvious, Cannot Control RPM During KOER High RPM Check. 167 is another code for TPS.


The TPS may be an issue but usually causes dropouts, sputtering when giving it the gas, things like that. It usually won't cause your main concern which is uncontrollable RPM and stalling. EGR and IAC most definitely will cause those issues. I don't know a ton about EGR, my 1994 has it but I've not had to mess with it. I believe there's a solid-state module to replace the EGR sensor, that might be a worthwhile investment along with making sure the passages (and vacuum lines) are clear. Regarding the IAC, take it off and hose the inside down with brake cleaner or let it soak in warm soapy water a while. Do take the motor off the back just in case, solvent/water may get in it and make things worse. I can't find the info on IAC solenoid resistance but you can ohm test the coil and see if it's within spec, I'm thinking maybe around 7-14 ohms? I'm probably way off on that. Basically, check it and see if it's shorted or has insanely high resistance.
Do you think I should start by changing my fuel filter? And air filter? Could that be a place to start? I am thinking of just buying those parts on amazon. They are about $50 each.
 






natenkiki2004

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Do you think I should start by changing my fuel filter? And air filter? Could that be a place to start? I am thinking of just buying those parts on amazon. They are about $50 each.
Those are always a good thing to do, especially if you don't have maintenance records. I wouldn't expect either to solve your issue but again, it's always good. However, they shouldn't cost that much. I'd bet you could get both shipped from RockAuto for under $30.
 






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Those are always a good thing to do, especially if you don't have maintenance records. I wouldn't expect either to solve your issue but again, it's always good. However, they shouldn't cost that much. I'd bet you could get both shipped from RockAuto for under $30.

Hey sorry for the late response! Happy Thanksgiving.. Just wanted to update what i did.

So I bought the idle air control valve. So installing.. I just removed the two bolts.. put the new gasket/ part then re bolted. Starting is still hard... NOT AS bad. It only takes me 2 tries instead of 4. The idle isn't as bad but it STILL has a rough idle. Im thinking maybe its a hose? idk. Its scaring me. If im accelerated its fine, smooth and I feel like i can keep going. Its the start up and the acceleration/deceleration. I have noticed since i replaced the part that it is acting worse when I accelerate. to the point where its like something sounds like its shaking as im accelerating... but lets say im going 45 and speeding up to 80 NO PROBLEM. 0-40 takes a LOT out of the car.

I dont want to lose hope on the car but its scaring me. Im thinking maybe its the fuel pressure regulator? I have yet to install the fuel and air filter... What should be my next step? Throttle position sensor or fuel pressure regulator?

I do not have fancy tools. I have socket wrenches and a paperclip that I have been working with..
oh and i did reset the computer and still no check engine light.. have yet to read the codes... also I think I have a leaky radiator hose. When its cold there is nothing in the box. I feel like im constantly filling it up. Could that be the problem?

I am no expert so thank you everyone for helping me out. I dont want to be a part of this throw away generation.. love my explorer, I need help!
 






trashtruck

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having to constantly fill the coolant isn't a good sign. either there is a leak or its going out the muffler indicating a bad head gasket which would explain the rough running. you might ant to consider doing a compression test. you can rent the tool from the parts store.
 












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Anything new?
Well I changed the air filter and the fuel pressure regulator.. then we took out the throttle and cleaned it.. let me see if I have pics... can't figure out how to add pics :/ but it's not idling anymore since I replaced the spark wires/idle air control valve and doing these new repairs(FPR , air filter, and cleaned throttle body)... now I still have a problem with the acceleration. IT'S MUCH better than what it was but maybe it's just me. Maybe this is normal? But when I accelerate the RPMS jump to 3 to 4 at like 30 to 50 the engine sounds rough, then I take my foot off the pedal wait a couple seconds till the rpms drop to 2 then accelerate again then it jumps back up and then down to 2 rpms... it just sounds like it's struggling to accelerate but I drove up and down the high way no problem.. it's just stop and go that she struggles
 






2stroke

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I think a video of you driving it would be very helpful in this case. I have a lot of ideas in my head, but none seem to really fit. The jumping RPM generally signals to me a struggling engine. They RPMs jump because you use so much throttle the transmission kicks down.

Random ideas are clogged catalytic converter, bad O2 sensor (unlikely in this case), bad fuel injector, spark plug wires installed wrong, leaking head gasket/cracked head, or leaking intake manifold gasket.

I would certainly double and triple check the spark plug wires are in the right order. You can rent special tools from auto parts stores. Most of use do. I would rent a cooling system leakdown test kit AKA radiator pressure tester. That is the next thing I would do.
 






Dan R

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Bad capacitors in PCM (computer) perhaps?
 






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I think a video of you driving it would be very helpful in this case. I have a lot of ideas in my head, but none seem to really fit. The jumping RPM generally signals to me a struggling engine. They RPMs jump because you use so much throttle the transmission kicks down.

Random ideas are clogged catalytic converter, bad O2 sensor (unlikely in this case), bad fuel injector, spark plug wires installed wrong, leaking head gasket/cracked head, or leaking intake manifold gasket.

I would certainly double and triple check the spark plug wires are in the right order. You can rent special tools from auto parts stores. Most of use do. I would rent a cooling system leakdown test kit AKA radiator pressure tester. That is the next thing I would do.

So ... I'm devastated:( My car right now isn't even reversing and Stuff is leaking out the tail pipe... so I mentioned how I changed the FPR and it was acting better but the change in rpms was still happening.. well the past couple days, driving was rough. Today I was checking my coolant and I noticed it was completely empty (I think I need hoses) so I put coolant in.. tried to drive it and it wouldn't even move.
 






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So ... I'm devastated:( My car right now isn't even reversing and Stuff is leaking out the tail pipe... so I mentioned how I changed the FPR and it was acting better but the change in rpms was still happening.. well the past couple days, driving was rough. Today I was checking my coolant and I noticed it was completely empty (I think I need hoses) so I put coolant in.. tried to drive it and it wouldn't even move.

Is this transmission? Could it be because of the FPR put in wrong? I just don't know. My mechanic told me I had a broken Cadillac converter shield when I kept asking what that rattling was when I change gears. So :( I don't know
 



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2stroke

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Your mechanic couldn't figure this out? It seems pretty clear if you are using coolant at an extreme rate, and you see it from the tailpipe, that you either have a blown head gasket or lower intake manifold gasket.
 






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