Car Spuddering, Wild RPMs Stalls Frequently..Not Drivable

[Chew_12]

First of all when I put it in gear and step on the gas the rpms go up and go down and then up, ill put on the brake and it will still do this. When I stop it sometimes stalls. I noticed that if I floor the pedal the rpms only go to 2000 but when it is idle i can floor it and it will go as high as it normally does. When it is idle it will be fine for a couple of minutes then the idle will flucuate and then stall. The car doesnt seem it will go over 20. I dont think it is the transmission because there arent high rpms, but I dont know. My transmission fluid is low, would that cause this? Right now I cannot go anywhere because I do not have a car, and very little of my friends do. There is a CEL with the car starts to act funny but AutoZone is far away and I cant get there in this condition.
I was having a previous CEL of 341 which is the octane adjust service pin. That CEL would only come on rarely and its been like that for a month. Would this cause this problem? I also get very bad milage. I checked hoses for leaks but I do not hear any, though still possible. What do you guys think it is?

Please Help with CODES 511,341,10,111.
Another Note when I turn the key the fuel pump does not turn off.

 

[Chew_12]

BTW I checked the MAF, it looks fine, and is not dirty, and im currently cleaning the IAC

 

[Chew_12]

IAC was just cleaned. not change But I did notice that when I put it in gear is when I have problems. I also noticed that if i slam my hood down while it is ideling it will stall

There is also a sweet smell comming from the engine. kinda smells like roasted corn

 

[Brian_B]

Have you checked the timing? I don't know anything about codes, but my ranger;s distributor turned somehow once. It would run (missing, jumping, etc.), but had no power. It might climb to 20 MPH with it on the floor. I am no mechanic, but it worth looking at maybe.

 

[Chew_12]

Wouldnt the car start acting up once I started it if it was the timing?

 

[Brian_B]

Don't know. Mine idled fine (or it seemed to). Like I said, I am not a mechanic. Its just an idea to check if you have a light. Its probably fine though.

 

[jimbo74]

my truck did that when my maf was dirty, i know you said you checked it, but disconnect it and retest it.... its possible the maf is still the culprit...

 

[Chew_12]

checked it agian and cleaned it..still the same problem. I think it has to do with a sensor. What sensors could possibly do this?

 

[Chew_12]

Also there is a lot of liquid comming out hte tail pipe, and it smells very rich

 

[jimbo74]

is it gas coming out of the tailpipe? if the engien is cold water from condensation of hot ehuast gases going through cold pipes will develop

 

[Chew_12]

I dont think it is gas, but im not a hundred precent sure. Seems a little more liquid than normal though

 

[Chew_12]

Here are the codes I got 341, 10, 511,111 so does 10 mean 1st cylinder problem? what do the others mean????

 

[pj8847]

codes: 341 = "Octane adjust service pin open" 511 = "Read only memory test failed"

That 511 code suggests that your PCM may be faulty, if you can, grab one from a salvage yard to test

As far as the other codes ( 10, 111 ) I don't know what 10 is, and 111 means "pass"

definetly sounds like a PCM prob if your pulling a 511 AND a 111..... ( wouldn't get the "pass" code if a code is thrown )

My first suggestion would be to reset the system, dissconect the "-" term. on the battery for 10 mins, then reconnect, if you still pull that 511, may be bad PCM.

 

[MrShorty]

You can get both a 511 and a 111 from the KOEO test, simply because two types of codes are output during the KOEO test: KOEO codes and memory codes. Since you didn't specify, I'll make assumptions based on what my code list says: KOEO 511 and 341, CM 111 (pass). The 10 is how some code readers output the separator pulse that separates KOEO from CM codes.
Just for informations sake, the 10 can also be read to indicate cylinder 1 failed the cylinder balance test (if you perform the computer's built in cylinder balance test, which is only available on SEFI engines. Some '93's were SEFI, others were MPEFI). At this point, I'm assuming you have only performed the KOEO test, and haven't even attempted the KOER test, let alone the cylinder balance test.

My code list shows (linked to from www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html) "511 (O) No power to PCM pin 1 or bad PCM (processor)" The (O) stands for KOEO code. This sounds like a prime candidate for your symptoms. If you don't have a steady 12 V at pin 1 (a wiring diagram will help), then find out why. If you do have a steady 12 V, and it doesn't flicker when you jiggle/wiggle/bend the wiring back to the battery, then I would strongly suspect a bad computer.

The KOEO 341 shouldn't have that much effect on the running of the engine. If the octane shorting bar is installed and the wiring is good, this could also be the result of a bad computer, but I wouldn't mess with this code until you get the 511 resolved.

 

[Chew_12]

Shorty thank you very much for your help. I will check out the PCM. I also have a chip and will test taking that out. I just bought this scanner today and I dont really know what im doing. I will have to read more about it. 511 is definately what the problem is. My battery cables arent the best of condition...Would this effect the voltage?

 

[Nate1]

My money is on the chip causing this somehow.

 

[Chew_12]

I check the codes again, after resetting the computer adn I got a 341 and a 512 512 is a KAM faliure. Those codes were pulled after I took out my chip. I will check the voltage tomorrow,

 

[Chew_12]

Drove it around without the chip,....No problems..Im pretty sure it was the damn chip...Apten is going to hear from me...nweibly you were right and thanks a lot Mr Shorty for making look in the right spot

 

[jqmustang]

similar problems

i have a 93 explorer 130k miles, at first i had acceleration problems, sometimes had very little power other times ran fine, i went to autozone and they hooked up the the code reader...nothing came up, i dont know if the guy didnt know what he was doing. We tried it off , on , with key engaged, anyways the first thing i did was change the plugs and wires, still no power....after reading alot of different posts i cleaned the MAF and the IOC, the maf seemed to be clean(cleaned it anyways) , the IOC was black inside and very dirty, i cleaned it up ,still looked dirty but way better than before(disconected negative terminal to reset) . I have to say that it is much worst now it still has no power or lots of power jumps up and down. Big problem is now it stalls and wants to turn off, it didnt do this before. Please help.....is it a sensor? o2? or cpu?

by the way first post, hi everyone
jorge

 

[Chew_12]

My problem was the CPU, it was doing this because the performance chip that I got was messing with teh CPU.

Did you have a CEL light up? If there it is light up and he isnt getting anything it probably is the CPU or he doesnt know what he is doing, but its not that complicated.