Cause for diagnostic codes for circuit fault at all 4 oxygen sensors & purge valve simultaneously | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Cause for diagnostic codes for circuit fault at all 4 oxygen sensors & purge valve simultaneously

Mikethe1

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January 10, 2020
Messages
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Year, Model & Trim Level
Explorer 2006 Eddie Bauer
Hi,
  1. I've got yellow constant check engine light and after OBD2 with Forscan it appears to be simultaneously circuit fault at all 4 oxygen sensors (Bank 1 Sensors 1 & 2, Bank 2 Sensors 1 & 2) as well as the purge valve circuit. Codes are 0135, 0141, 0155, 0161, 0443. Besides the warning light vehicle is running fine including on high speed.
  2. Looks like it's common for oxygen sensor fault diagnostic codes to go together with purge valve diagnostic code.
  3. However, since all 4 sensors involved at once, it sounds for me highly unlikely that indeed all 4 sensors failed at the same time or 4 different wirings (located at separate locations) were all of the sudden damaged (and short circuited or something).
  4. I suspect common source for all the problems. Obviously malfunction in the PCM is always an option. But I think more likely there is one place where all those circuits (or at least the 4 sensors - the purge valve is casual) are meeting/originating - some rely, diode, fuse, connector etc. My question is whether indeed such exists, if so, where can I locate it and how to check it?
  5. Regarding malfunction in the PCM - Based on similar threads here in the forum, looks like in most cases it ended up in PCM replacement. Then, I would suspect root cause was short circuit in one the 4 sensors wirings - then because the PCM is not protected against short in communication/signal channel wires - there was a short inside the PCM. In such case it's purposeless to replace a new PCM unless all those related wirings are checked - good isolation, continuity etc. For that, how can I know which PCM pin's are related and how to follow the lines all the way to the other end - the sensor?
Thanks,
Michael.
 



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Following, I have the exact same codes and yes the truck runs fine. Only issue I have noticed is if Im idling somewhere for more then 10 mins the truck will just shut off.

To answer your number 4 question. Only way to find out if they all join a common circuit or fuse, etc. One would have to look at a wiring diagram and trace each wire and see where they end up.
 






Following, I have the exact same codes and yes the truck runs fine. Only issue I have noticed is if Im idling somewhere for more then 10 mins the truck will just shut off.

To answer your number 4 question. Only way to find out if they all join a common circuit or fuse, etc. One would have to look at a wiring diagram and trace each wire and see where they end up.
Do you know which pins in the PCM are relevant?
I also measured voltage at the purge valve connector and got 4V when engine on and also on key on (key off - I got 0V).
So if this is a fine reference voltage at idle, it means problem in the PCM control (not signalling >4V when needed) or with the purge valve itself - but this is highly unlikely since usually they are simple and trusted.
But if it's not fine reference - it means short circuit to some other 4V signal...
 






Following, I have the exact same codes and yes the truck runs fine. Only issue I have noticed is if Im idling somewhere for more then 10 mins the truck will just shut off.

To answer your number 4 question. Only way to find out if they all join a common circuit or fuse, etc. One would have to look at a wiring diagram and trace each wire and see where they end up.
Eventually I ended up buying the official repair manual from here: Do it Yourself Automotive Repair Information | ALLDATA DIY
It contains genuine OEM drawings, wire diagrams and test procedures.
I was overwhelmed by the procedures required for each one of the above codes-they are easy but require time and attention (and also Forscan).
I'll recommend simply follow them since it's little bit more complicated then our above ideas.
 






Eventually I ended up buying the official repair manual from here: Do it Yourself Automotive Repair Information | ALLDATA DIY
It contains genuine OEM drawings, wire diagrams and test procedures.
I was overwhelmed by the procedures required for each one of the above codes-they are easy but require time and attention (and also Forscan).
I'll recommend simply follow them since it's little bit more complicated then our above ideas.
Hi Mike,
Did you ever find a solution to this issue? I, like many people (from endless searching for an answer) have the identical issue and codes.
Thanks,
Mark
 






Reviving this thread once again because I now have the same issue. Codes 0135, 0141, 0155, 0161, 0443, MIL illuminated, runs great. Did anyone end up finding a fix? Checked a few grounds so far and change the purge valve, but codes came back after cycling the key.
 






In most cases multiply ,non-related to each other components diagnostic DTCs ,reffered to bad harness issue

You should first start from replacing your main harness(so called injectors harness)

With old original factory wiring including bad insulation( for sure ),it is almost impossible to find whats wrong.
In general the most problematic insulation locations are exhaust manifolds,transmission harness portion near the catalytic converter,behind the engine block and the couple of areas near front timing cover.

In my case,keep going with bad main harness caused fire in engine compartment and instrument cluster PATS module permanent key erase (eeprom "Keep alive memory" chip burned)
 






The engine harness for our explorers is discontinued. I tried to do that myself but Ford does not carry it anymore. Scrap yards but who says those harnesses are any better ?
 






Ive ordered brand new 2007 4.6 3v engine harness from ebay a year ago.ask internet retailers for stock (tasca parts, fordgiantparts etc.)

2006 gen4 harness really discontinued.2007-2010 still in production or able to purchase via backorders.

In the worse case you can order 2010 gen4 harness and modify it by yourself...its very minor differences between years

In general " discontinued" chart doesnt really mean nothing.
Ive ordered discontinued oem black Ironman edition headlights via ford retailer (they waited for ford to start ironman headlights production line once again) and imported em by myself to Israel.

Second option for you its the hard way

You can repair your harness using motorcraft connectors catalogue and workshop manual electric drawings.you will need quality crimp sleeve tool kit,heat shrink and harness electric tape.
 






Hmm ......

Thanks for that info , did not know 2007 harness is available. If I pull my old one and lay it next to 2007 I would see the differences if needed.
 






Yep

2007 harness available even in local Ford dealer stock or 3 month backorder
 






Hi,
  1. I've got yellow constant check engine light and after OBD2 with Forscan it appears to be simultaneously circuit fault at all 4 oxygen sensors (Bank 1 Sensors 1 & 2, Bank 2 Sensors 1 & 2) as well as the purge valve circuit. Codes are 0135, 0141, 0155, 0161, 0443. Besides the warning light vehicle is running fine including on high speed.
  2. Looks like it's common for oxygen sensor fault diagnostic codes to go together with purge valve diagnostic code.
  3. However, since all 4 sensors involved at once, it sounds for me highly unlikely that indeed all 4 sensors failed at the same time or 4 different wirings (located at separate locations) were all of the sudden damaged (and short circuited or something).
  4. I suspect common source for all the problems. Obviously malfunction in the PCM is always an option. But I think more likely there is one place where all those circuits (or at least the 4 sensors - the purge valve is casual) are meeting/originating - some rely, diode, fuse, connector etc. My question is whether indeed such exists, if so, where can I locate it and how to check it?
  5. Regarding malfunction in the PCM - Based on similar threads here in the forum, looks like in most cases it ended up in PCM replacement. Then, I would suspect root cause was short circuit in one the 4 sensors wirings - then because the PCM is not protected against short in communication/signal channel wires - there was a short inside the PCM. In such case it's purposeless to replace a new PCM unless all those related wirings are checked - good isolation, continuity etc. For that, how can I know which PCM pin's are related and how to follow the lines all the way to the other end - the sensor?
Thanks,
Michael.
Hi Michael,

Many of us still experiencing this exact same issue. Has anyone found the correct solution? Was it the harness? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!
 






Hi Michael,

Many of us still experiencing this exact same issue. Has anyone found the correct solution? Was it the harness? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

Bump!!
 












I have the same check engine light and random O2 codes, EGR code, & Evap Purge Control Valve code
So random codes come and go like:
P0135 bank1 sensor1
P0141 bank1 sensor2
P0155 bank2 sensor1
P0161 bank2 sensor2
P0403. EGR valve
P0443 evap purge control valve

Just to be thorough, I replaced all 4 O2 sensors, the EGR, and the Purge Valve. No change in behavior.

Sent PCM to CarComputerExchange, they 'reflashed it" and no change in behavior
I returned the PCM back to CarComputerExchange under warranty, they said it was "unfixable"

Bought a $500 PCM off Ebay from a local utah fellow who gets them from insurance wrecks (ie, the car was running when it crashed). Got the old VIN written onto the used PCM by a local company that just drives around doing PCM's all day for $200 called Home - Mobile Diagnostics they normally only work with auto shops, but they were nice enough to take care of me.

car worked great for 300 miles, (enough to get past Utah emissions. Lucky me)
And now I'm right in the same boat again with emissions due again in 5 months.

I unbolted and cleaned all the grounds I could reach. no change in behavior.

I wish there was a diagnostic cable/software that could plug in between the PCM and its 3 cable bundles to try to get a better picture of what is going on.

So the only advice I have is GOOD LUCK finding a PCM in a junkyard, they are unobtanium.
I'm guessing its because the PCM is fully in the hot engine bay that causes them to fail early.
Ebay seems to be the best bet for used PCM's
Sounds New PCM's are not made anymore.
Sounds like no one does "board level repair" where you solder the motherboards.
When buying off of Ebay, you have to make sure the car was running when it crashed.
We really need an aftermarket solution, or we're going to keep sending 4th gens with good motor/trans to the junkyard because of these PCM ghosts.
 






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