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Chain rattle? Only does it at idle/cold/AC on. Audio Clip.

cross6

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I may make something similar for future use. My next question was going to be how did you torque the new retaining bolt but now I don't need to. With your method there is no possibility of breaking the bond between the inner and outer sections which could result in a wobble unless you tighten the 8 x 100 bolts too much pushing the outer section aft. By the way, a strap or chain wrench is supposed to be attached to the inner section (not the outer) in the green area identified below.
View attachment 78621
I purchased a chain wrench to try and use but in my opinion its worthless. Ford has a special tool similar to yours but made out of metal which I refuse to pay for.

I'm about out of ideas. I'll sleep on it and maybe think of something.

I guess I should probably just drop the lower/inspection oil pan and see if I find any debris. I already have oil/filter/gasket for it anyway.

I'll post a pic of how I make the wooden tool tomorrow. I consider them one time use. They creak and groan as the wood separates. Probably asking for a broken knuckle if you reuse. Metal would be better but I don't have a drill press or plasma cutter handy. Wood is so much quicker.

Yeah you just get the 8 x 100 bolts hand tight then a quarter turn or so. Any more than that and the wood will split before you can over tighten. Which I guess is a good thing.
 


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cross6

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Got my hands on a ford service manual. According to it when you have a 03/04 mid build you need to check the vin for the type of balancer.

My truck's vin says to not use the new style balancer.

Funny enough it shows using strap wrench on outer ring of balancer which is a no no.
 




2000StreetRod

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strap wrench

My 2005 Mustang assembly instructions show using a strap wrench.
StrapWrench.jpg

My 2000 Explorer workshop manual doesn't mention how to prevent the crankshaft from rotating. When the engine is out I use a chain attached to the flexplate.
ChanBlnc.jpg

Eventually I'll make or buy a good tool for when the engine is installed. Volvo has an interesting one.
Counterhold.gif

It was only $60 but I couldn't find one anywhere in the USA so I made my own.
BlncrChn.jpg
 




cross6

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Yep very similar pic in the ford service dvd set.



So I think I just about have this balancer application thing figured out after cross referencing ford/dorman and looking at engines on ebay for different vin letters and years.

It appears to be a mercury thing, which I guess explains why I haven't seen this pop up much.

For mercury the part break is at 03 for ford's it's 02. Pulled OASIS report on my truck and build date is 02-OCTOBER-2003 according to ford.
 




cross6

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Alright.

Ford Explorer 4.0 1990-2003: **2Z-6312-BA
Mercury Mountaineer 4.0 1998-2002: **2Z-6312-BA

Starting in 2003 4.0 Mountaineers used **2Z-6B321-A balancer.
Starting in 2004 4.0 Explorers used **2Z-6B321-A balancer.

The **2Z-6B321-AA (Dorman 594-236) supercedes the 6B321-A.

Cannot find definite proof from ford parts that 6B321-AA supercedes 6312-BA.

My truck has a 6312-BA style balancer on it despite being built in 2003 and being a 2004 model year body Mountaineer.

I bought it with 90K on it, so it's possible the oem balancer already failed once and someone got a junkyard part. It's got a ford engineering ID number on it so it's from the factory, but probably from an earlier model explorer.

There is a significant mass difference between the two (open hub vs weighted hub) so I'm wondering if 100K later with the wrong balancer has caused my flexplate to crack and chatter. That would come from torque converter area and go away with some rpm. Not sure why ford would change the balancer design unless the flexplate mass changed due to a transmission / torque converter change?
 




cross6

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I keep finding problems except the one causing the rattle.

WAafUoz.jpg
 




2000StreetRod

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Misfire DTC?

Unless that happened when you removed the plug there should have been a misfire DTC for the associated cylinder. If not, I guess it's possible the boot kept the two pieces close enough together that the spark was able to jump the gap.
 




cross6

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Unless that happened when you removed the plug there should have been a misfire DTC for the associated cylinder. If not, I guess it's possible the boot kept the two pieces close enough together that the spark was able to jump the gap.

It was like that. Boot pulled off with no resistance, which I found odd. But didn't notice until back at my bench.

No codes, it's been like that a while too, what's left of the tip is heavily rusted. Other end is rusted into the boot. Guess the arc made it across like you said.

But it was fuel fouled, smelled of gas and looked wet even after not running for a few days. Ran compression check just to make sure. Normal.
 




cross6

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Pulled the driver side hydraulic tensioner today. (Turns out my thermostat housing was cracked and leaking into the valley also)

It has just as good spring tension as the new ebay tensioner I picked up. BUT, it has a pretty rough spot right at the beginning of travel.

Worth replacing?
 




2000StreetRod

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fully extended piston

I remember feeling a "catch" when I started to depress the piston from its fully extended position. I can't remember if it was on the new ones or the old ones. Anyway, the only time the piston would be in that position is if the cassette guide was broken. If the piston moves smoothly in both directions for the rest of the travel I wouldn't spend the money on a new one if purchased individually.
 




cross6

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I remember feeling a "catch" when I started to depress the piston from its fully extended position. I can't remember if it was on the new ones or the old ones. Anyway, the only time the piston would be in that position is if the cassette guide was broken. If the piston moves smoothly in both directions for the rest of the travel I wouldn't spend the money on a new one if purchased individually.

I didn't even think about that. Yep it will be past that tought spot once it's threaded in.

I think I'll put it back in with a ford crush washer, trust it more than the ebay generic that might collapse.
 




cross6

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Welp, no debris in the oil pan, but since it needs a new water pump I went all the way.

I think I see the problem. The balance shaft tensioner is broken. The pieces seem to all be visible, just wedged in various places. The chain is loose enough to hit the mounting peg for the spring.

Amazingly, my cam cassette and primary look in excellent shape, I don't even see cracks. Not bad for 187,000 miles.

sXezHo7.jpg


dUx2MBz.jpg
 




cross6

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I just noticed something...that's not the stock primary chain tensioner and guide, is it?

Should be orange not black, like the balance shaft, and the stamping of the tensioner bracket is different.
 




cross6

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Yep it's a cloyes set. Chain is different color too with the one dark link like cloyes. I know exactly what happened. They bought a Cloyes 2WD kit which doesn't come with the balance shaft stuff, so they left it alone.
 




2000StreetRod

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removing block cradle

Normally the block cradle is removed to replace the balance shaft chain tensioner because the retaining bolts are vertical.
BlncShft.jpg

It's a pain to remove the block cradle with the engine in the vehicle and there are some alignments to perform when installing the cradle. Some members have successfully bent the pivot shaft enough to remove the spring assembly and install the new one without removing the cradle. Then carefully bend the pivot shaft back into position. Other members have just pulled the chain off or cut it.
 




cross6

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Normally the block cradle is removed to replace the balance shaft chain tensioner because the retaining bolts are vertical.
View attachment 78870
It's a pain to remove the block cradle with the engine in the vehicle and there are some alignments to perform when installing the cradle. Some members have successfully bent the pivot shaft enough to remove the spring assembly and install the new one without removing the cradle. Then carefully bend the pivot shaft back into position. Other members have just pulled the chain off or cut it.

What do you think? Am I crazy or does that primary guide/tensioner not look oem?
 




2000StreetRod

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OEM tensioner

It's hard to tell from the photo. My original 2000 tensioner is on the right. The improved (2002 and later) OEM tensioner is on the left.
Tensioners.jpg

There are numbers stamped on the base on mine. If you have them they are hidden by the leaves and chain. Make sure the tensioner is actually pushing against the chain.

What are your plans for the balance shaft chain tensioner?
 




cross6

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After 30 minutes of maneuvering with dental picks and a pair of 11" hemostats.

d4emEtA.jpg
 




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