Changing CV joint: How big of a job is this?

[98FordLove]

Got a clunk/Knock sound from the front right tire when turning at low speeds to the left only. Almost certain it's the CV joint.

1) How big of a job is this to do? Compared to say changing the shock or ball joints.

2) do I need another 4 wheel alignment after?

 

[C420sailor]

The way I do it…blast the axle nut off, pull the wheel, brakes, disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle, and remove the upper ball joint from the knuckle. Knuckle should swing far enough to get the Cv axle out. No alignment required

 

[98FordLove]

The way I do it…blast the axle nut off, pull the wheel, brakes, disconnect the tie rod end from the knuckle, and remove the upper ball joint from the knuckle. Knuckle should swing far enough to get the Cv axle out. No alignment required

Sounds like a big job?

Sounds like people replace the shaft seal too while at it?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Got a clunk/Knock sound from the front right tire when turning at low speeds to the left only. Almost certain it's the CV joint.

1) How big of a job is this to do? Compared to say changing the shock or ball joints.

2) do I need another 4 wheel alignment after?

bigger job that a shock but somewhat similar to a BJ if youve the skill to do a BJ this isnt a whole lot more necessarily

 

[C420sailor]

Generally yes, unless the CV isn’t that old. If it’s an original? I would absolutely replace the seal on the differential, unless you like gear oil leaks.

The seal may be the most difficult part. Easy to remove, a pain in the ass to drive in properly, at least if you haven’t done it before. Need a driver (pipe) that fits the OD and won’t compress the seal at all. If you use a flat driver, you’ll destroy the seal. And you have to drive it in straight. If it starts going in ****ed, stop immediately and try again.

 

[Turdle]

Cv replace how to with pictures located in the how to sub forum

 

[Turdle]

CV Axle Replacement How To (Pictures)

Replacing CV Axles You can replace your own CV axles. It takes a few things the average person may not have in their tool box, but nothing that can’t be bought for a few dollars. It will be far less than the labor charges for the job, and you’ll have the tools for future projects. Other than...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[98FordLove]

bigger job that a shock but somewhat similar to a BJ if youve the skill to do a BJ this isnt a whole lot more necessarily

Ok thanks, good to know this.

Generally yes, unless the CV isn’t that old. If it’s an original? I would absolutely replace the seal on the differential, unless you like gear oil leaks.

The seal may be the most difficult part. Easy to remove, a pain in the ass to drive in properly, at least if you haven’t done it before. Need a driver (pipe) that fits the OD and won’t compress the seal at all. If you use a flat driver, you’ll destroy the seal. And you have to drive it in straight. If it starts going in ****ed, stop immediately and try again.

Thanks. This CV joint is still original, 26 years. My parts store came up with 3 seals I could replace and wasn't sure which one I need to replace. So just the seal for the diff.

 

[donalds]

Ford seal only trust me

 

[BigBlueBrick]

CV axle isn't too difficult. Just make sure you blast off the Axle nut while the truck is on the ground because the torque spec makes it impossible to break loose once it's in the air. Also try not to hang the caliper by the brake line once it's disconnected. It's gonna take some fiddling to get it out of the hub once you move the spindle to the side. The How-To thread should cover those.

My piece of advice would be to not cheap out (excessively) on the CV or you'll be back under there in a few months. I used an Amazon one a while back and it went bad in about 3 months. Had the same thing happen when I cheaped out on a Detroit Axle steering rack. I have since replaced the rack again with one from Advance, so I guess at least I'm good at that job now lol.

I used a Harbor Freight seal puller and bearing driver to put new seals and bearings in while I had my front differential out since I was doing my steering rack the second time. Seals shouldn't be too bad in the truck.

Ford seal only trust me

I think I used SKF seals and they've been fine for the last 6 months, although maybe I just got lucky.

 

[C420sailor]

SKF makes very good bearings and seals. I believe they are the OEM supplier, but don’t quote me. Been using them for years on various differentials and such, never had one fail

I did spring for the OEM pinion seal just in case though…cheap insurance lol

 

[98FordLove]

SKF makes very good bearings and seals. I believe they are the OEM supplier, but don’t quote me. Been using them for years on various differentials and such, never had one fail

I did spring for the OEM pinion seal just in case though…cheap insurance lol

The store said SKF seals are very good so I will use these.

Thanks Bluebrick, I ended up ordering the CV axle from another local store as I believe this is a better brand, it's "World Parts" the guys said they've been carrying it for many years and no issues with this brand. Says it's very high quality so I ordered it from them and will pick it up in a few hours. Will return the Trakmotive one I just picked up. From my research, it has decent reviews but also Canadian Tire sells it so I think it's just a standard replacement and I don't want to take a chance of it not lasting then I have to pay all over again to get it replaced again.

Would rather just put in a higher quality one in the first place and be done with it. I'm shocked that the stock one lasted this long. I've never heard of CV axles lasting 26 years.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

CV axle isn't too difficult. Just make sure you blast off the Axle nut while the truck is on the ground because the torque spec makes it impossible to break loose once it's in the air. Also try not to hang the caliper by the brake line once it's disconnected. It's gonna take some fiddling to get it out of the hub once you move the spindle to the side. The How-To thread should cover those.

My piece of advice would be to not cheap out (excessively) on the CV or you'll be back under there in a few months. I used an Amazon one a while back and it went bad in about 3 months. Had the same thing happen when I cheaped out on a Detroit Axle steering rack. I have since replaced the rack again with one from Advance, so I guess at least I'm good at that job now lol.

I used a Harbor Freight seal puller and bearing driver to put new seals and bearings in while I had my front differential out since I was doing my steering rack the second time. Seals shouldn't be too bad in the truck.


I think I used SKF seals and they've been fine for the last 6 months, although maybe I just got lucky.

have had bad luck historicslly with detroit axle. probably some cheap aprts with an american sounding name

 

[Fix4Dirt]

The store said SKF seals are very good so I will use these.

Thanks Bluebrick, I ended up ordering the CV axle from another local store as I believe this is a better brand, it's "World Parts" the guys said they've been carrying it for many years and no issues with this brand. Says it's very high quality so I ordered it from them and will pick it up in a few hours. Will return the Trakmotive one I just picked up. From my research, it has decent reviews but also Canadian Tire sells it so I think it's just a standard replacement and I don't want to take a chance of it not lasting then I have to pay all over again to get it replaced again.

Would rather just put in a higher quality one in the first place and be done with it. I'm shocked that the stock one lasted this long. I've never heard of CV axles lasting 26 years.

CV on this oen is original 325k miles and 24 years im also intrigued by these new trakmotive ones not gonna lie i wonderfor a high power/offrosd application

 

[98FordLove]

have had bad luck historicslly with detroit axle. probably some cheap aprts with an american sounding name

I couldn't find too much on Trakmotive except for on Canadian tire. With the World Parts brand being only $26 more, I didn't want to take a chance.

CV on this oen is original 325k miles and 24 years im also intrigued by these new trakmotive ones not gonna lie i wonderfor a high power/offrosd application

What causes CV joints to go bad? I've never had to replace one on any of my cars in my lifetime and I've owned about 6 cars now in my life. Hopefully my driver side one is still good for at least another 2-3 years.

I did not get the truck checked out yet but I am 100% certain it's the CV joint that is going bad with the knock/clunk sound I get when turning left at low speeds.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

I couldn't find too much on Trakmotive except for on Canadian tire. With the World Parts brand being only $26 more, I didn't want to take a chance.



What causes CV joints to go bad? I've never had to replace one on any of my cars in my lifetime and I've owned about 6 cars now in my life. Hopefully my driver side one is still good for at least another 2-3 years.

I did not get the truck checked out yet but I am 100% certain it's the CV joint that is going bad with the knock/clunk sound I get when turning left at low speeds.

the high ankle ones i believe a member fire used theres threads on em

 

[BigBlueBrick]

have had bad luck historicslly with detroit axle. probably some cheap aprts with an american sounding name

Needless to say, I'll never buy from Detroit Axle again. I suspect their stuff is Chinesium

What causes CV joints to go bad?

Could be a variety of things, but they go bad quicker if you have a lift or take it wheeling. It's not excessive IMO since I wheel mine, but the shock loading that comes from lifting tires and the increased angle with a lift will definitely hasten their wear.

Usually what happens on the street is the boot will tear and fling all the grease out of the joint and onto the shock, LCA, etc. Once enough grease is gone, the axle wears heavily and eats itself up. It's more worth it to just replace the whole axle as opposed to just the boot because of the extra labor involved in disassembling the joint to get the boot on.

That CV deserves a medal for 325k mi

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Needless to say, I'll never buy from Detroit Axle again. I suspect their stuff is Chinesium
That CV deserves a medal for 325k mi

wouldnt be surprised!!!!! now i learned
and definitely, its still on there and still quiet, no tears etc in boot

 

[98FordLove]

Needless to say, I'll never buy from Detroit Axle again. I suspect their stuff is Chinesium


Could be a variety of things, but they go bad quicker if you have a lift or take it wheeling. It's not excessive IMO since I wheel mine, but the shock loading that comes from lifting tires and the increased angle with a lift will definitely hasten their wear.

Usually what happens on the street is the boot will tear and fling all the grease out of the joint and onto the shock, LCA, etc. Once enough grease is gone, the axle wears heavily and eats itself up. It's more worth it to just replace the whole axle as opposed to just the boot because of the extra labor involved in disassembling the joint to get the boot on.

That CV deserves a medal for 325k mi

the high ankle ones i believe a member fire used theres threads on em

I wonder if I should ask my mechanic today to re-grease the drivers side CV joint? What kind of grease should i pick up? Heading to the store shortly.

I also asked him about gear diff oil, I'm guessing you always have to top it up when changing a CV axle?

 

[donalds]

I did spring for the OEM pinion seal just in case though…cheap insurance lol

It took 3 pinion seals for me to learn this lesson
NoW I use ford seals only