Changing Spark Plugs -- Need Advice

[icepickjazz]

I have seen several posts on the pain of changing spark plugs. My 2004 V8 is about ready to hit 100K. As far as I know the plugs have never been changed. Is this a DIY project on one better left the pros? If DIY any tips, tricks, traps? Other considerations?

Thanks

 

[JoshMcMadMac]

It is very simple and easy. Just pull each coil, pull the spark plug, and reverse. I had mine done in under an hour. You have to do a bit of reaching and an extension helps, but it is cake compared to a lot of spark plug jobs.

 

[icepickjazz]

How do i know if i have Platinum or double platinum oem plugs?

 

[Exproblems]

I have seen several posts on the pain of changing spark plugs. My 2004 V8 is about ready to hit 100K. As far as I know the plugs have never been changed. Is this a DIY project on one better left the pros? If DIY any tips, tricks, traps? Other considerations? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Your other post question here >>>>>>>>>How do i know if i have Platinum or double platinum oem plugs?>>>>>>>>>

Thanks

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I have the V-6 4.0L and have changed out my plugs and wires myself. Not sure on how much room you have work with on the V-8 you have. If you can clearly see the plugs at the cylinder heads(meaning not a lot of engine components in the way), you shouldn't have much problem getting to them. Just have some angles to deal with removing the old and installing the new plugs. Just use long socket extension handles to reach them and a angled/swiveled spark plug socket. Pull (you can use a breaker bar for removing old plugs or a ratchet once loosened) and replace "one spark plug and wire at a time" to avoid crossing the firing order of the plugs and wires to the coil pack, measuring the length of the old spark plug wire to the new one, so they are roughly the same length. Check or adjust the gap to the correct specs on your new plugs prior to installing them, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THEM! Tighten to specs with a "torque wrench", but hand tighten them down first, making sure they are not cross threaded. Some use a section(1-2ft parts stores sell) of rubber hose/tubing that fits snuggly on the plug ends to start hand threading in the new plugs. DO NOT CROSS THREAD THE PLUGS INTO THE CYLINDER HEAD!. You can use a little anti-seize lube on the new plug threads, just a little. Use die-electric grease on or inside both new plug wire ends at the plug head and coil pack. Make sure you seat the new plug wires all the way down on the plug ends, feeling thru your fingers for a little "pop" sound or sensation that they are seated together. On the coil pack end, you have snap clip tabs to squeeze to loosen the old plug wires and just pop them off, then just press the new plug wire ends into place on the coil pack, and pull up on them to make sure they are clipped down into place. Just make sure the squeeze tabs are locked under the lip on the coil pack.

Some tips: For the passenger side plugs, you may want to disconnect the air intake tubing at the air filter box and the throttle body intake and rotate the air intake tubing up and over the top of the valve cover (if you can on the V-8) to get at the plugs on that side of the engine. Just becareful of any wires coming from the MAF sensor or damaging the PCV valve or tubing. It made life easier for me on my V-6. Always swivel the old plug wire heads back and forth first between your fingers, before removing them from the old plugs or coil pack just to break the seal they have made over time. Route your new plug wires thru the engine compartment the best you can, keeping them away from the hot manifold or any pinch points. Use plug wire seperator clips to space the plug wires apart from each other along the side of the motor. It keeps them neat and in order. On the OE single or double platinum plug question, you can use either-or as far as I know, but double check with a Ford dealership parts dept. to be sure. Use either a Motorcraft or Autolite plug, both are OE recommneded brands. Thats about it unless I forgot something. Good luck!

 

[esclamada]

the 4.6 V8 has all plugs accessible on top and easier to change than 4.0 V6. Anybody with mechanical skill can do it.

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[Black Dynomite]

Yup its easy, just take your time.

My tips

Make sure engine is cold when you do this

Likely to be a lot of dust and grit around, get some compressed air to clean it away BEFORE you begin, or if your cheap like me, use the vacuum cleaner (ours has a nifty attachment for getting into small spaces)

Use anti-seize on the plug threads before you install them

When first installing, use the ratchet extension only and hand turn them in. (prevent cross-threading). Then use the torque wrench to properly tighten them to spec.

Use dielectric grease on the coil ends when you reinstall them.

Dont buy plugs from the dealer. Tascaparts (or similar) sell them cheap enough.

Dont bother with double platinum, likely you'll have platinum.

 

[rhaynes]

Changing Plugs

You can do it if you have the right tools and are mechanically inclined and want to. If you don't have the tools you buy them for $20 to $50. I bet there is a youtube video showing someone doing it. Heck I found one that showed how to change a blower resister on a 2000 sebring.
If you have 100k now is a good time, but the old ones probably will not look worn and you probably won't notice any difference in performance afterwards.
I just can't see paying $15 for one plug. I'd go to one of the autoparts stores and get the 3,4,5 dollar ones. You can put the exact one back in like you took out for that.
But if you do it now and do it correctly you will reduce the chances of one of the ones in there now blowing out.
You can get to them all but you may have to take some other things off (like the big tube from the air filter to the intake) to get to a couple. If you pull it off and you will have to, you have to pull the pcv hose loose from it too. Bear in mind you will be removing something that is 3 or 4 inches down in a hole, so you can see into some pretty well but the back one on the passenger side you will be working blind.
Since they are down in a hole or recess you will need a long extension or maybe two. I think I used a 6" and a 3". Spark plug sockets come with a rubber boot in them that grips the plug and this works great when you are taking them out but when you put them in it may grip so well that your tool joints pull apart instead of the socket slipping off so you may want to wrap duct tape around the joints where you connect two extensions together and between sparkplug socket and extension. Ask me how I know this.
You have to take the coil pack off and it has one bolt/screw holding it down. It has an electrical connector that you can unplug. Then when you pull it off you can set it aside. It has a rubber boot about 3" long with a spring inside that goes down in the hole and attaches to the plug. If it pulls apart(it probably won't) don't panic, just study it and look at marks and put it back together. Look at all of them too. Some will look perfect, some may have rust on them and some may look like they are burned or have been hot. If they are burned looking this could be a sign of trouble to come or it could be a sign you got there in time.
You may also want to disconnect the electrical connector to the fuel injector on a few to make them easier to get to. If you do them one at a time you will not mix them up.
You should blow the recess/hole out before removing the old ones like someone said. If you can't do it any other way you could use a piece of fuel hose or even a long straw and use lung power. Might make you light headed.
Don't lay things on the engine or around the hole (like bolts and screws) that could fall in a spark plug hole.
Take the old ones out.
If any come out hard and have aluminum clogging the threads on the plug call time out.
Check the gap on the new ones.
Put the new ones in (with antiseize). Remember you are working in a hole so you cant see the bottom because of the tools so you have to center the extension in the hole (and they are at a slight angle not vertical) and take it slow and easy. If you can't turn it the first few threads by hand don't use a wrench to force it.
Stick the coil pack back on and put the hold down screw in.
Reconnect the elect to coil pack if disconnected.
Reconnect the fuel injector if disconnected.
Put the air inlet hose back on.