check engine- code P0430 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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check engine- code P0430

rathrbcruisin

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 17, 2015
Messages
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City, State
Michigan
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer 5.0 AWD
CEL came on again today, code P0430. Advance auto said it could either be a bad Catalytic converter bank 2, or the O2 sensor behind the cat could be bad. If the O2 sensor was bad, wouldn't that show it's own code? They said no drive ability issues should happen, but I hate seeing that CEL!
 



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In the absence of other codes, I'd suspect the catalytic converter
is getting tired.

I wouldn't completely rule out the rear cat sensor, but chances are it's
the cat itself. Check the wiring and electrical plug for the sensor first.
Sometimes the wiring will fall on the hot cat and the wires will melt.
 






I used to get that code. Went away when I replaced the pre-cat O2 sensors. IIRC, the computer figures out if the cat is working properly by comparing the pre-cat sensor data to the post-cat data. If one of the sensors is weak, then it'll look like the cat is failing.
 






The Bank 1 sensor 1 has been replaced. This is the bank 2 cat acting up i think. I'm gonna drive it until it starts puking or showing problems. hopefully if it is the O2 sensor it will kick a code for it.
 






I put a piece of electrical tape over the light to keep it from glaring in my face. I was driving today and happened to notice that it went out. It was on while i was going in to work, then I got home and had to go back out to get something and it was out. We'll see if it comes back on.
 






Thought i'd post an update. I got another code that said o2 sensor slow response so i thought i'd change the bank2 sensor1 o2. could not get that to budge, but it seems to be the easiest one to change. I've been shooting it with PB blaster, and a mixture of acetone and trans fluid. I also unplugged the connector and wiped it off and plugged it back in. I have not had a check engine light since. In the spring when its warmer i'll probably change that sensor if it ever comes loose enough to do it.
 






Pretty much the same thing happened to me. I ended up having to remove the Y pipe to get the frozen sensor out. You may be able to avoid that if you PB Blaster it persistently (hit it every 3-5 days, and let the blaster work into the threads through heating/cooling). However, IME seized sensor threads only get worse with time.

The upside is that the truck will probably die of old age long before I wear out the new sensors in 100000 miles.
 






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