check engine code

[waxtadpole]

Hello all. Newbie to the forums here.....I was hoping I might get a little bit of insight into a problem. Here goes....

I have a 1992 ford ranger 4cyl. It's got about 196000 miles on it now, and I just recently had a problem with the check engine light. On my original check, I had a problem with the EGR system and a bad coil. Well coil failure on 1,2,3 or 4.

I replaced both coils with Echlin brand coils, new plugs (bosch Platinum) and wires. This did not fix the problem. After about 8 seconds, the check engine light comes on every time I fire it up, so I got the codes checked. Here is what they said.

Code 224 = 1,2,3 or 4 circuit failure back to the same coil problem. The intake side coil. The mechanic said to run OEM equipment and check the plug gap and replace the wires. If that doesn't fix it, get the OEM coils from Ford (130.00/coil).

I guess my question is, "Has anyone else come across this problem?" and "What did it take to fix it?"

Cash is in low supply, so I'd like to get it fixed with as little money as possible. I'd rather not have to go get new plugs, wires, and coils.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[sinned]

All I had to do was reset the computer by removing the negative post on the battery for about 30 minutes.

 

[waxtadpole]

I suppose I should have stated that the code keeps returning after being cleared.

 

[Alec]

It's always best to go with Motorcraft ignition components, even plugs.

Have you checked the wiring harnesses going to the coils?

 

[waxtadpole]

It's always best to go with Motorcraft ignition components, even plugs.

That's what everyone seems to be saying. I have never had a problem with the Bosch plugs or aftermarket wires.

Have you checked the wiring harnesses going to the coils?

Nope....but that's another thing I guess I need to check out

Thanks

 

[Alec]

Could also be a bad engine ground.

 

[waxtadpole]

Well I regapped the plugs and checked out the connections on the unit that controlls the coils. After messing with that "controller" I have gotten the light to stop coming on......but only on some occasions. There seems to be a type of grease between the "controller" and the intake manifold. It's very similar to the type of grease used in computers between CPU and the Heat Sink.

I'm not sure if the connectors on the "controller" are losing the connection, but it seems to do ok when the engine is fairly cool. Once it heats up the light comes back on. Would that "grease" have anything to do with it? It looks dried up. I believe it is some kind of heat disapation grease.

For example......

I got up this morning and drove 5-6 miles. No light.

I get back in from my stop and the light comes on as usual. I drive it another 5-6 miles and park it for about 3-4 hours.

I get ready to go again and before starting I check the connectors on the "controller" again. It comes on after about 30 seconds and them goes out 30 seconds later and doesn't come on again for the 8 miles home.

I get in an hour later and it stays on as usual.

The only things I have messed with have been the plugs and the "controller" for the coils.

Any ideas? I'm stumped.

I may go to the boneyard and grab some motocraft coils and "controller" from a similar Ranger.

 

[dan leon]

How does the truck run? If it runs ok then I would suspect an intermittant loose connection somewhere. Check the engine harness connector, and the PCM(computer) connector. Also, (this may seem lame) check your battery and charging system for proper connections and function. I have read posts about the PCM gettng confused if it receives insufficient voltage.

 

[waxtadpole]

When it messed up it idled rough and had a loss of power.

It turned out to be a bad/old/worn out ugnition module. It runs fine now.