Check Gauge Light after Refueling

[mbrando1994]

This is on a 2003 Explorer XLT AWD 4.0L

Whenever refueling the tank when near to empty (under 1/4 tank), the gauge will sit right where it was, even if filling the tank. Then about 5-10 minutes into driving, it will drop to empty and appear as if the gauge isn't working at all, the check gauge indicator comes on. This goes away after about a day and the gauge slowly rises from empty to full.

I've heard of some people experiencing this before but am unsure on what to do to diagnose/repair this issue.

I'm also getting an ABS light almost every time I drive now. It used to come on periodically but now almost each and every drive. It seems to come on during acceleration but I don't have enough evidence to prove that or not.

Any help is appreciated!
Thanks!

 

[mbrando1994]

Any suggestions guys? When I run codes nothing comes up for either

 

[gtyates]

As to why the fuel gauge does this I do not know, but I can tell you that our '04 Explorer does this from time to time as well. I have noticed that it seems to do this more often if I leave the keys in the ignition, but I can't say for sure there is a connection between the two. My '05 Sport Trac also does this about twice a year. Odd issue..

 

[swshawaii]

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=132113

BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

 

[Number4]

I’ve not heard of anyone successfully correcting a P0463 code. My thought is it’s a bad ground wire. But after 5 years of this, I’ve still not inspected.

I do know that people have replace the fuel pump and not corrected the issue.

 

[Drewmcg]

On the ABS light, I'd bet that one of your front wheel hubs is going bad.

Do you have the forscan app and a bluetooth OBI-II adapter? Not all scanners read ABS codes. Forscan software does, and will tell you which wheel is going bad. On my '02, there is a single sensor in the diff. that reads rear wheel spin; not sure about your truck. Depending on how bad the wheel bearing is, you may or may not get noise. Be carefully, though: my front driver's wheel bearing failed suddenly after a month or so of ABS light coming on, with very little pre-failure noise.

I have similar issues with fuel gauge, and replaced my fuel pump a year or so ago. Since PCM is somehow involved with fuel guage (don't really understand it, but his is why its important to turn car off and remove keys when you refill), it could be anything. I suspect something wrong with my EVAP system is involved, since I also frequently have problems with the pump constantly shutting off after a second (very frustrating).

 

[mbrando1994]

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=132113

BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

Thanks a bunch! Now on page 20 bottom left, what in line connector are the speaking of? Electrical? Bear with me I've never done work with the fuel system before

 

[mbrando1994]

I’ve not heard of anyone successfully correcting a P0463 code. My thought is it’s a bad ground wire. But after 5 years of this, I’ve still not inspected.

I do know that people have replace the fuel pump and not corrected the issue.

The scanner I use is not throwing that code, but after dealing with multiple wiring issues this wouldn't surprise me. It's not a huge concern of mine, just another little annoyance my explorer's been giving me lately

 

[mbrando1994]

On the ABS light, I'd bet that one of your front wheel hubs is going bad.

Do you have the forscan app and a bluetooth OBI-II adapter? Not all scanners read ABS codes. Forscan software does, and will tell you which wheel is going bad. On my '02, there is a single sensor in the diff. that reads rear wheel spin; not sure about your truck. Depending on how bad the wheel bearing is, you may or may not get noise. Be carefully, though: my front driver's wheel bearing failed suddenly after a month or so of ABS light coming on, with very little pre-failure noise.

I have similar issues with fuel gauge, and replaced my fuel pump a year or so ago. Since PCM is somehow involved with fuel guage (don't really understand it, but his is why its important to turn car off and remove keys when you refill), it could be anything. I suspect something wrong with my EVAP system is involved, since I also frequently have problems with the pump constantly shutting off after a second (very frustrating).

I always refuel with vehicle off keys in my pocket, I even turn off all my accessories like the GPS and dash cams. So we can rule that out. It seems to only happen when it get's down too low and is filled to the top. Any other time the needle is slow to respond but doesn't drop to empty with a check gauge light. No idea what's going on.

As far as my scan software. I use a blue driver adapter with blue driver software..I'm kind of disappointed in it since forscan seems to do a lot more. Is forscan compatable with the bluedriver dongle?
Both fronts and one rear were replaced, the rear by AAMCO, both fronts by myself with timken hub assemblies. No noise whatsoever. Please let me know your thoughts, thank you

 

[Joe in NY]

I question the "Have to shut off your car to refuel" as I leave my car running often when refueling and hop back in while the pump is going/ (I ain't standing out there when its -20*F!) My gauge goes up rather quickly and hits the full mark right when the pump clicks off. Our Chevy Suburban also acts in the same manner.

Subaru on the other hand for example has three (3) separate fuel gauge algorithms for whatever reason and HATE to be refueled when they are running. It takes a lot of driving for the gauge to finally come to and realize that there is indeed a full tank of gas. (Rather stupid IMO)

So American cars seem to not care. "Imports" do.

 

[mbrando1994]

I question the "Have to shut off your car to refuel" as I leave my car running often when refueling and hop back in while the pump is going/ (I ain't standing out there when its -20*F!) My gauge goes up rather quickly and hits the full mark right when the pump clicks off. Our Chevy Suburban also acts in the same manner.

Subaru on the other hand for example has three (3) separate fuel gauge algorithms for whatever reason and HATE to be refueled when they are running. It takes a lot of driving for the gauge to finally come to and realize that there is indeed a full tank of gas. (Rather stupid IMO)

So American cars seem to not care. "Imports" do.

Joe, the reasoning behind both of these are safety precautions. The first I am assuming in case something malfunctions on the vehicle while running it does not form a 'siphon' into the gas supply tank and cause a bigger catastrophe. The second I will tell you is due to static electricity, you 'should' remain at the pump during fueling, I even hold onto the metal of the pump as well. If you do need to walk around the vehicle, get in or out, please touch a piece of grounded metal far away from the pump before removing it, the static could ignite gas vapors and cause a burst or explosion!

I know these have 2 algorithms I'm pretty sure. I believe one is slosh mode and the other something else, but from what I'm reading more often than not it's the sending unit that has failed or is corroded.