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Check out this suspension setup - 1 link w/ panhard bar

Diff Whack Daddy

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This is a strangely easy but very functional looking suspension. Combined with some coil overs it looks like it would work really well and be cheap with regular coils and affordable with coil overs.
Scroll down about half way and look for the blue Scout.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=273512&page=2&pp=30

Here's my questions.

1. Of course what would be the pro's and cons of a setup like this?
2. How would you figure out the appropriate angles, lengths, etc.?
 


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Stic-o

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That's pretty cool. I wish there was a better picture of the joint at the driveshaft. It look like it moves from side to side a bit. That thing mite be a little scary on the street though. :(
 




Rick

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Looks pretty cool. All of the forces are put through the pivot ball. That's the only weakness I can see. Carry a spare and you're good to go. I think one of the guys on this site built an Ex with 'mog or Volvo portal axles and he used a similar rear suspension.

As far as the construction is concerned, that's not my thing so I can't help you with that one.
 




Diff Whack Daddy

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Rick

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There aren't any pics on that page. At least not for me...
 




everythintech

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wow, i dont know a lot about suspension styles, but that flex is crazy! kinda just what i want. I just might be doing a lil more research up on that style, seems a lil more mind intensive, but a lot less harware intensive. i like that a lot.
 




redranger4.0

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its a one link with a grader ball. the grader ball is like 200 dollars. theres a couple guys on pirate running a graderball. non have broken yet. they are really strong. 034x4 is going to run a rear onelink. i am going to also but not untill i get my shit done
 




Diff Whack Daddy

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The beauty of it is that is less mind intensive as well. You can start all the fabrication by simply removing the gas tank, keeping the axle centered with the leaf springs and fab everything in place. Then simply add coils, or if you really want to, coil overs, then remove the leafs and your dour done, excepth for relocating the gas tank of course.
 




Diff Whack Daddy

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For Rick

standard

standard

standard

standard

standard

standard

standard
 




kert0307

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I tried a setup like that for the rear of a full suspension go-cart a built in high school. I ended up bending it doing some high speed(well more like 35mph) cornering during some testing, but at slow speeds and rock crawling I think it'd be ok
 




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Rick said:
I think one of the guys on this site built an Ex with 'mog or Volvo portal axles and he used a similar rear suspension.
That was greenmeanie, but he hasn't updated for a very long time. I even posted asking for updates a couple weeks ago and nothing.
 




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Looks like a pretty simple setup to build. Tons of flex too :cool:
 




Diff Whack Daddy

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Looks like I found another advantage. Instant skid plate mounting that is clear of other moving things.
g-69rullaa.JPG
 




bmxking5

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Diff Whack Daddy said:
2. How would you figure out the appropriate angles, lengths, etc.?
Anyone know?
 








Diff Whack Daddy

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So far from what I have read here http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=235977 is that ublike a four link where the figures change as the suspension cycles, with this set up your numbers stay the same. It seem most that use this type put the link right below the transfer case side of the driveshaft. Some even have the tubing bolted in place of the leaf spings. The more I look at the designs of this, the easier it gets.
 




Diff Whack Daddy

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FROADER said:
Do it Kevin! Do it...do it...

I am still planning. First is coil overs on top of the ford radius arms up front. The I tackle the rear. I am not looking for drivability since it is a trailer queen now, just looking for stable off roading characteristics.

I probably will do it though :D
 




tdavis

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So, here's some questions for you:

1) What does it do to the roll center of the vehicle? Raise it, lower it, or keep the same? Vehicle roll center is the tendency to "roll" when turning. The zuk has more of it now, but at the same time that allows it to eat up bumps like it never did before. A high roll center means less roll, but a rougher ride at speed.

2) Does it roll steer any at all, and if so, does it bother you? Roll steer could be painful - in a turn, it will try to straighten you out instead of turning.

3) Is it a neutral, squat, or anti squat in the rear when you goose the gas? A high-anti squat rear could be good for hill climbs, but get it too high and suddenly the rear will start to hop. Hopping is bad - that is what destroys drive shafts, and breaks axle shafts.
 


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Diff Whack Daddy

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tdavis said:
So, here's some questions for you:

1) What does it do to the roll center of the vehicle? Raise it, lower it, or keep the same? Vehicle roll center is the tendency to "roll" when turning. The zuk has more of it now, but at the same time that allows it to eat up bumps like it never did before. A high roll center means less roll, but a rougher ride at speed.

2) Does it roll steer any at all, and if so, does it bother you? Roll steer could be painful - in a turn, it will try to straighten you out instead of turning.

3) Is it a neutral, squat, or anti squat in the rear when you goose the gas? A high-anti squat rear could be good for hill climbs, but get it too high and suddenly the rear will start to hop. Hopping is bad - that is what destroys drive shafts, and breaks axle shafts.

See question 2 in the first post of this thread. I are stupid and don't have nuf brain cap for that. So far I haven't found anyone else who has figured that out either. I think it will actually cause an anti-squat being mounte just below the t-case rear u-joint.

I already roll steer and fight the hell out of it on the road, what little it sees. For the simplicity and cost, it would be worth a try just to see what happens.
 




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