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Checking ball joints

66427

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Clarksville, TN for now...or forever
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01 EB
So I have developed a bit of a clunk when traversing bumps and RR tracks and such and plan on doing some front end work. I plan on new lower control arms with new bushing and ball joints, new uppers for bushings and ball joints, new tie rods, inner and outer, new shocks.

Question, been a long time, how do I check upper ball joints, and how do I check lowers? I want to change whichever one needs it first and seem to remember jack it up then push/pull on the top and bottom of the tire for movement. How do I isolate top from bottom?
 



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You can watch the top one when you wiggle the tire and see if the ball joint has play in it. It's easier to check the bottom if someone else works the tire while you look at it.
 






You can watch the top one when you wiggle the tire and see if the ball joint has play in it. It's easier to check the bottom if someone else works the tire while you look at it.

yeah, kinda of a one man show with that today. Any other options?
 






I can't offer any help, but I just had both upper and lower ball joints changed a couple of days ago. These were found to be the problem, when there was a significant camber on my front wheels. Interestingly my mechanic didn't pick the problem up when he did the service two days earlier. But the Suspension shop found the problem immediately on the hoist. So get it on a hoist and you should be able to see the problem quickly. Both the upper and the lower ball joints were knackered and were so loose that they were almost at the point of separating.

Good luck.

Crispyinasia
 






If it's bad enough you can lay on the ground and wiggle it by grabbing the bottom of the tire while you look at it. Or turn the tire so you can look in there from above while you wiggle it. If it's clunking badly you'll see movement pretty easily.
 






tip: when you jack the truck up, be sure to do it from the factory jack point on the lower control arm. you can do one side at a time.
 






Well, you might not want to do this, but you can remove the pinion bolt and pull out the upper ball joint / control arm and you can see the play. You should be able to see the lower one lying on the ground. While not the official Ford test procedure you can put a lever (tire iron, 2x4...) and lift up on the tire/wheel once you have it jacked up (on the lower control arm) and you can see the vertical play while looking at the ball joint. My guess if they are original and it is a 2001 with normal miles, they are all needing replaced.
 






I meant to add, while you are under there replacing everything, you might want to do the sway bar links and maybe even sway bar bushings. I think the Moog K700542 is a popular replacement for the links.
 






tip: when you jack the truck up, be sure to do it from the factory jack point on the lower control arm. you can do one side at a time.
Bingo! Those front facing LCA "hooks" are very handy and safe. :thumbsup:
 






Bingo! Those front facing LCA "hooks" are very handy and safe. :thumbsup:

yes they are, but the other reason for jacking from that point is that it keeps the front suspension at ride height. if you jack it up from say the front x-member, the suspension drops and you can't judge ball joint play accurately.

while your under there, check the front sway bar end-links and bushings. they are a major contributor to front end clunking noises.
 






My method for 1 man testing the ball joints is to jack the front up, and using A jack stand on the LCA hook & a stand under the frame rail behind the front tire, I bring the rig to rest with the tire only 2" or so off the ground.

I use a long crowbar, and slip it under the tire from the front just enough to get under the tire completely. Lift up & down, on the bar (raising the tire some), and watch for ANY slop on the ball joints. If I see any play at all, I replace them, no matter how minor.
 






yes they are, but the other reason for jacking from that point is that it keeps the front suspension at ride height. if you jack it up from say the front x-member, the suspension drops and you can't judge ball joint play accurately.

while your under there, check the front sway bar end-links and bushings. they are a major contributor to front end clunking noises.

I planned on sway bar bushings, hadn't thought of the end links. Thanks.
I will check them/replace them also.
 






My method for 1 man testing the ball joints is to jack the front up, and using A jack stand on the LCA hook & a stand under the frame rail behind the front tire, I bring the rig to rest with the tire only 2" or so off the ground.

I use a long crowbar, and slip it under the tire from the front just enough to get under the tire completely. Lift up & down, on the bar (raising the tire some), and watch for ANY slop on the ball joints. If I see any play at all, I replace them, no matter how minor.

Yes, I planned on changing them all, Tie rods, bushings and shocks too.
I just want to start with the worst.
 












Bingo! Those front facing LCA "hooks" are very handy and safe. :thumbsup:
They don't look safe to me at all. All that holds your car above your body is a welding.
Those are just to prevent "bottoming out" IMO.
I always go right under the LCA pivot point - if I want the suspension to drop.
Or the lower arm, close to wheel, if I don't care about that.
Does this hook weld (from below pic) look safe to hold 1 ton against your life?

CA-TR-FD-106L-1100-Map.jpg


I just replaced my upper control arm Saturday (passenger side, two piece design one). The movement from behind the well was obvious that is coming from the top part of the wheel, but I also could peek around and see it moving.
 






i'm not suggesting you crawl under any vehicle w/out using safety stands. even if you trust the LCA lift point, you shouldn't trust a jack. i'm pretty sure the lift hooks are plenty strong enough, as Ford wouldn't want the liability of them breaking off.

the point i was trying to make was that if you lift the wheel off the ground from anywhere but the LCA, you can't accurately check ball joint wear. in addition, if you jack the vehicle up from the front cross member you will damage it.
 












Yes, I know. It's just too scary for me...
I sometimes don't trust engineers, maybe because I am one of them and I know them. And I know who wins in rust versus welds.

Plus, what Ford says is that those are just for road-side tire change. Not crawling under car. Not as support for a jack-stand. Not life-safety rated.

That's all.
 






Hook is bomber.
 



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