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chevy HHR fan install

jd4242

Explorer Addict
Joined
October 15, 2008
Messages
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City, State
va beach
Year, Model & Trim Level
92explorer&94 ranger
****EDIT***
this fan does not keep up for me and is getting removed:mad:

so after going through 2 fans and not wanting to pay $300 for a fan,i started looking at the Taurus fan and mk8 fans but didn't really like that it had to be trimmed and cut to fit.so with the suggestion from Mark i started looking at the Chevy HHR fan.its rumored to pull somewhere between the 2 other fans.i got it today and in 15min the thing was installed,it fit perfect!!all you need to cut is the 4 tabs on it and there is a little over hang on the bottom but it not that much and doesn't hit anything so why mess with it.i took and drill two holes on the top and two on the bottom and put bolts through it into the top and bottom lip that on the radiator.i installed this on an all alum manual radiator but it also fit on my automatic rad..o and the cost was $58 to my door from Rockauto(with our discount code also)!!!! EDIT............. will not fit on a auto radiator without trimming or something!
cut these four tabs off
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and drill four holes where they line up with the lip on top and bottom of the radiator,with the fan flush with the top of the radiator and your done
picture.php

just a little overhang but doesn't hit anything so i just left it alone
picture.php

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funny pic but there's plenty of room!!
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:salute: too Mark for the help:salute:
 



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Looks good. Is there a gap between the fan shroud and the rad tubes, or is it tight to the tubes (pic 3)? If the shroud is sitting right on the tubes, are you concerned about vibration rubbing a hole in one of the tubes? Nice mod.
 












That's the fan I bought for my Dart. It's supposed tp work really well. You'll have to report on how well it cools.
 






That looks very good.

Can you tell me what the distance is between the three motor bolts? I'm wondering if the motor is a possible swap for the other fans.
 






Looks good. Is there a gap between the fan shroud and the rad tubes, or is it tight to the tubes (pic 3)? If the shroud is sitting right on the tubes, are you concerned about vibration rubbing a hole in one of the tubes? Nice mod.

yea there's a gap,the shroud covers the whole thing so it will be drawing air from the whole thing.the edge of the fan is very ridge and sits on the lip on the top and bottom.that lip sticks out just barely and keeps the shroud from sitting on the tubes,it close.im thinking about taking and cutting some hose like 1" pieces and putting them over the bolts to act as bushings to help keep the plastic shroud from bending in but still hold it tight,the shroud is very ridged but might flex a little when heated.im also thinking about taking a piece of plastic and attaching it to the bottom lip and then to the bottom of the shroud so it cant pull air in from the bottom gap.dont think it will really matter but i want it to pull as much through the radiator as possible.
 






That's the fan I bought for my Dart. It's supposed tp work really well. You'll have to report on how well it cools.

yea there is a guy that runs it on a 460 and said it keeps it cool no problem.there truck isn't done yet so it will be next week before i can test how well it works.

That looks very good.

Can you tell me what the distance is between the three motor bolts? I'm wondering if the motor is a possible swap for the other fans.

will do first thing tomorrow.
 






anyone know how i could test how many cfn this thing pulls.every one i call doesnt know and keeps telling me that its a stock replacement!!!how much is stock geezz!!
 






The only time I've ever seen a test on electric fans was when someone knew someone who did testing on exhaust fans.. and they hooked it up to that testing rig.

~Mark
 






The only time I've ever seen a test on electric fans was when someone knew someone who did testing on exhaust fans.. and they hooked it up to that testing rig.

~Mark

haha thats what my dad was just telling me but he dont know if the people at his work will do it for me
 






if you have a way of channeling the air through a tube or something of known area, then all you need to do is measure the speed at which the air passes through the entrance of that tube with an anemometer. It is not accurate because of the static pressure variances and the fluid effects of the tube wall but I will get you in the ballpark.
 






Either the stock radiator is smaller then I imagined... or that isn't a stock radiator.

Clarify?
 






edit............. will not fit on a auto radiator without trimming or something!!sorry for misleading
 






How are you controlling it?
 


















How are you controlling it?

right now i just have a 40 amp relay and then the remote wire is coming from inside to a switch(in case i get in deep water i can turn it off)then to a temp probe, then the relay.i going to put an amp meter on it and see if i might have to buy one of those pricey fan controllers.
 






right now i just have a 40 amp relay and then the remote wire is coming from inside to a switch(in case i get in deep water i can turn it off)then to a temp probe, then the relay.i going to put an amp meter on it and see if i might have to buy one of those pricey fan controllers.

According to this site a guy tested it out and came up with 14-17 amps running and 23 amps at startup. If you're going to test anyway then maybe you can verify:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=3814811&page=0&fpart=2&vc=1

If the amps are actually that low then you wouldn't really need any kind of special high dollar fan controller

Still looking for CFM, I'll post if I find it.

May not even be an issue...guys are using this same fan to cool their big block Chevys, so if it's good enough for them then I'd think it would be ok for the Explorers.
 









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You don't have to run a high dollar fan controller even if you do have a high amperage fan. Just don't use the fan controller to support the main current of the fan. Just use it as a switch.
 






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