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Choices for full size blazer axles? --ok on to the swap

Turdle

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I'm only asking here because I trust your judgement. Sorry for the Chevy question, but I have to ask.
My friend would like to replace the noisy and worn 10" rear axle in his 93 full size blazer. He's running a pro comp lift and 35" tires.
He's looking at the new generation 3/4 ton chevy axles. Will this work?

Or, is he better off looking for a ford 9" and making it work. He'd like to have rear disc brakes-

I appreciate any answers. I was hoping someone here was real familiar with these rear suspensions
 



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The 3/4 ton's would probably work, just have to look at width, and bracketry, plus address input issues. Seems like a set of gears would be way easier though?
 






The 3/4 ton's would probably work, just have to look at width, and bracketry, plus address input issues. Seems like a set of gears would be way easier though?

I actually think it's just the pion bearing at this point-but he is convinced this rear isn't strong enough.
If someone was to show how it is, I would let him read this--hint

I like this 10 bolt rear for the ground clearance. My opinion for him was to try to save it.
I was shopping for salvage 2006 units and they are $$$:eek:
seems like he could do something with this 10 bolt for less money-

Thoughts?
 






Well, don't have much offroad stuff as proof, but I can tell you I tow ridiculous stuff behind my 92 on a regular basis, on 33's with stock axles, and have never questioned my rear end. I once dragged a willy's pickup with the brakes locked up about a hundred feet, digging 6 inch ruts through the ground. I have a pretty well modded motor, and lots of power, and even at truckhaven, when the rear was twisted up, and i would floor it out of a situation, no problem.
 






He could always look for a 14 bolt out of a similar year truck, just ask Izwack how strong the 14 bolt is, he is running one in the rear of his ex. Chevy axles pretty much just bolt right in from what I understand, the only difference being the bolt pattern at the axles.
 






Ok
I have spent a few hours doing research. Frankly-from what I have learned, and read, it is one or the other.

Here is what he wants to do-
keep the current rear-and beef it up.
Converting rears would require a different bolt pattern for the wheels,
then the disc brake conversion is $$$$

Getting a late model 14 bolt is way up there-
least expensive I could find was 1500 plus shipping--:eek:
Then -even that is a gamble.

He wants a streetable rear diffy-which will spin both tires in mud. He spends a lot of time on both.
However-the offroading is only for getting to his secret fishing holes-sometimes this requires skirting edges of fields, and this is where you can get in trouble.

Also-
if he's in traffic and needs to quickly maneuver-he wants to be able to.

what would you suggest.
Please post up opinions so I can show him what you all say.
Thanks
 






I know this is an old thread, but i have to reply. :p:

What he needs is to find a light duty 3/4 ton 88-9whatever. It will have the semi-float 9.5" 14 bolt and will be 6 lug. Even the 2wd's in this version is 6 lug. This is often refered to as the "mini 14 bolt".
 






OK, old thread--
Thanks for the info. It has been under consideration while the truck has been of limited use, mainly just to move it around his yard.



The Blazer is now in my driveway. Good news--the pinging noise stopped.
Bad news --it was replaced with a grinding and bang -lol

The common sense thing to do is swap in the stronger axle. Current ratio is 3.55:1 turing 35" tires--
I think the gearing should be changed. Now I have no idea what the front diff is referred to. This is important for selecting a good rear gearing.

Swapping the rear axle is not what concerns me. Gearing the front is. If possible a front with the desired gearing would be a good idea. ( yes--no?)

I need to know what I am looking for when I go to the pile o axles at the scrap yard. Does anyone have a picture of a 14 bolt semi floating axle?
 






Thanks Corkey for the picture

susp_01.jpg



disc brake conversion link

http://www.ce20.net/blazer/suspension.php

susp_78.jpg
 












That axle above is a full floater. Note the 8 bolt pattern. The semi float will not have the "pop can" with the bolts on the end. Look for an axle with 6 lugs and 14 bolts holding on the cover to start.

This is a picture of a semi float 14 bolt
31005060010_large.jpg
 












You could also look at the 12 bolts. They have a 8.875" ring gear. Disk conversion will set you back about $150 with over the counter parts.
 






so,, the semi float 14 is just a regular axle, nothing special,

hmmm, it looks about the same as the 10 bolt GM, but with a bigger pumpkin,,

i see all kinds of guys that use the 10 bolt Chevy in muscle and drag cars, so it can be beefed up ,,
 






Or get a dime-a-dozen 9 inch and convert the front dana 44 to 5x5.5. :) You have alot of options.
 






Or get a dime-a-dozen 9 inch and convert the front dana 44 to 5x5.5. :) You have alot of options.

The Blazer in Question is front IFS
we would like to keep the 6 bolt lug pattern.

when choosing a rear axle, I need to find a gear ratio we can match the front to.
 






i see all kinds of guys that use the 10 bolt Chevy in muscle and drag cars, so it can be beefed up ,,

I do too, however I've blow too many 10 bolts and corporate 10 bolts up in muscle cars to waste any more money on them. Stick with 12 or 14 bolts or AAMs. Alternately, you could swap in a newer full size Ford 8.8". Should be able to find them with disks in a 6 lug pattern.
 






the newer ford 8.8 would require redrilled axles since the pattern is 6x135mm rather than 6x5.5. If that measure is taken, find a ford 9.75 also found in newer f150's.

I second the 12 bolt, little smaller ring gear than the semi float 14 bolt 8.875 vs. 9.5 but still a great axle with lots of aftermarket support. The 12 bolt is possible to find in a 5 or 6 bolt pattern.
 






Finding a 6 lug 14 bolt is going to be both your best and cheapest option.

It will be a bolt in swap, although you may need to run a ******* Ujoint. Its a 9.5" ring gear and is just as strong as a D60. He can spend a ton of money building up a 10 bolt and it still wont be as strong as an $80 junkyard 9.5. Disc brakes can be done with 4x4 IFS front rotors, weld on caliper brackets and calipers of your choice. The drums on the 9.5" are bigger than the 10 bolt stuff so no need to go with discs unless he just wants to.

Ive never heard of GM using 3:55... only 3:42 or 3:73 but i could be wrong. If he's running 35's you need to convince him to go with some 4:56's, it will be like adding a supercharger. I had that same truck (95 Tahoe 2 door on 35's) and gearing it made all the difference.
 



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Finding a 6 lug 14 bolt is going to be both your best and cheapest option.

It will be a bolt in swap, although you may need to run a ******* Ujoint. Its a 9.5" ring gear and is just as strong as a D60. He can spend a ton of money building up a 10 bolt and it still wont be as strong as an $80 junkyard 9.5. Disc brakes can be done with 4x4 IFS front rotors, weld on caliper brackets and calipers of your choice. The drums on the 9.5" are bigger than the 10 bolt stuff so no need to go with discs unless he just wants to.

Ive never heard of GM using 3:55... only 3:42 or 3:73 but i could be wrong. If he's running 35's you need to convince him to go with some 4:56's, it will be like adding a supercharger. I had that same truck (95 Tahoe 2 door on 35's) and gearing it made all the difference.

James, thanks

I hate to sound so ignorant, but could someone please tell me which front axle is used in a 93 full size blazer?I need to know the generic, gear shopping term please.

It is IFS but that is all I know. The local GM dealership couldn't even tell me.
 






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