Clean Oil Slick - SOLVED

[Gary Crist]

Don, sounds like a typical government job.
1. Measure with a micrometer.
2. Mark with a crayon.
3. Cut with ax.....

 

[C420sailor]

Got the front suspension and differential out.

One nasty surprise. Looks like one of the motor mount plates (that bolt to the block) has a stud broken off in the block. The perfectionist in me wants to lift the motor, remove the mount, and try to extract the stud from the block. The lazy ass in me says 'three out of four bolts is good enough for government work."

The epoxy work on the pan isn't as extensive as I thought. I haven't chipped it off yet (oil is still draining), but I should be able to seal it well with Ultra Black.

I did also see that the CV boot at the transfer case for the front driveshaft is torn. On the to-do list. Hopefully nothing is damaged in there--I'm not very smart on these transfer cases.

 

[CDW6212R]

For the drive shaft CV, expect to find the joint too loose unless the boot was just torn recently. The grease is slung out fast and the joint doesn't last long. To replace it is about $85 for the Dorman version, do not buy the Detroit Axle kit, they are a low quality company. I've done one of those CV joints, it wasn't too hard to replace it.

 

[C420sailor]

Thanks! I'm doing CV axles and all three seals on the diff while it's out. May as well--they were starting to weep.

I figure I can attack the CV on the TC at a later date.The front suspension, steering, and this damn oil leak are my 5-meter targets right now.

 

[C420sailor]

Update

Got the epoxy removed. A lot of epoxy to cover a crack that was maybe 3/4"x1/16". Not huge, but enough to leak oil like a sieve. Easily chipped it away (it was DONE), took a stainless brush and whiz wheel to it, then fully degreased with brake cleaner. I made sure to get some Ultra Black through the hole (so it would form a quasi-plug) and then generously covered the hole and surrounding area. If this doesn't do it, I don't know what will.

Of note, I'm also replacing my steering rack and lines. The old one was leaking as well. Even with the differential out, I'm going to have to jack the engine an inch or so to get the rack out. Oh well. Now the question becomes: if I'm going to jack the motor, do I remove the plates and try to remove that mount stud from the block? Decisions, decisions...

 

[Gary Crist]

Have you thought about low temp solder?
That stuff was not around in my dark ages....

 

[C420sailor]

Have you thought about low temp solder?
That stuff was not around in my dark ages....

For the pan?

I didn't. I have a TIG machine, so if I did anything, it would be that. I had too many concerns about weld contamination (oil film on the back side) and explosion (fuel vapors in the crankcase). I would imagine I'd still have contamination issues with brazing/soldering. Hopefully the RTV will hold.

 

[C420sailor]

Got some more work done today.

Unbolted the mount plates from the block with a floor jack and 4x4 under the oil pan. The manual says to undo the top engine mount nuts, but I couldn't get to them--every tool I tried just wouldn't get in there. Anyway, unbolted the plates, jacked the engine up a couple inches, snuck the old steering rack out. It was SHOT. Slid a Motorcraft remanufactured one in (didn't go with a cheapy--I don't want to do this job again). Got it bolted in, installed all new lines, etc. System is gravity filling as we speak.

I'll admit it, I pussed out on the bolts. I put my best stud (they all looked great) on the side with only one. Cleaned it up, applied blue loctite, torqued well. I'll be shocked if it lets go. Here's to hoping I'm right.

Tomorrow I'll get the front differential back in, along with new front brake lines. Then the front suspension. She's coming along...hoping for no leaks!!!

 

[Gary Crist]

YES! Solder! I have even soldered holes in gas tanks shut.

After prep (sand and clean) I used to heat up a piece of steel to almost cherry.
Apply acid core solder. Worked like a charm!
Yes some gasoline vaporized but, there is no source of ignition.
So based on my experience, I am trying to save you some work.

 

[CDW6212R]

With the axle seals on the front diff, be slow and careful tapping them in, to avoid dislodging the tiny spring behind each seal. Same for installing an axle in those, be straight and slow putting them in. If the spring comes out(falls into the diff), the seal will leak from then on. Installing those seals while the diff is in, is hell. So good call to replace those now, they're not cheap but worth having them new when possible.

 

[410Fortune]

REMOVE the engine plate and at least try to remove the broken stud........ I would! With the plate out of the way, no front diff and no rack and pinion you should have a good amount of room to work. With the engine plate removed the stud should be exposed a little
Try map gas to break the rust, soak with blaster, repeat....then try to turn it out

 

[C420sailor]

FIXED! Put a couple hundred miles on it. Not a single drop of oil on my driveway. Night and day.

My PS rack was really shot. Super loose, boots falling off, leaking fluid like a sieve. The new steering is so tight and accurate and doesn’t leak a drop. Love it.

Now on to the rear...