cleaned shift governor / new vacuum modulator

[chris c]

started all the stuff i needed to get done to my truck tonight.

first off i was suffering from the 1>2 cold shift problem. i dropped the tranfer case and removed the shift governor. i did not remove the tail shaft extension on the transmission to remove the shift govenor. is there and reason to besides easy access to the bolts holding the shift governor? it was working but def. sticking. i polished it with 2000 grit sand paper and cleaned it up. the galleys were all clogged up from small metallic residue from the metal wearing. i guess that should be expected with 202k miles on it!

i also put in a new vacuum modulator just for kicks. heh, i under the car right. i read some posts about removing the cat or an access panel under the passenger seat. i removed the head shield and swapped the vacuum modulator without touching the cat or using the access panel under the seat. you have to see with your hands but it can be done...

tomorrow im on to the front axle universals!

 

[racephan6]

I bought a new vacuum modulator to try to fix a problem I just started having. Does this seem like a reasonable thing to try?

I have a 1992 4WD Explorer with 4ALD automatic transmission. It sat for 6 months. When I recently started it, it began to run ok. I took for a short drive to make sure everything was ok and I noticed a grinding sound. When I got back and put it in P, the engine revved up to 3500RPM and stayed there. When I switched back to R, OD, D, 1, or 2, the RPM returned to 1500RPM. N also caused the RPM to raise to 3500PM. I shut off the engine and looked under the car and I had alot of leakage from the rear end housing cover plate. The transmission fluid level is ok. Is this Park/Neutral sensing switch problem or a vacuum diaphragm problem or something else? After sitting for 6 months, the engine is running fine, it is a transmission/driveline problem. Any suggestions.