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Cleaning Leather Seats

iowndavidson

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2006 Ford Explorer EB 4.6
Anyone know of any good products to use to clean leather seats in our explorers? Tried just soap and water and scrubbing but seems like I need something a little more powerful than that.
 



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reverend_zombie

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1997 ford explorer
I've never cleaned leather seats in a car, however I have a leather couch. Same principles applies. I general start with HOT soapy water... and if that doesn't work... things like windex or... pine sol may work to. I have colored leather, which is generally stronger then non-colored leather I heard... I don't know... miiight wanna be careful about pooring random chemicals on it if not.... Also remember when you are done to wipe it down with something like... grape seed oil, so the leather doesn't dry out. :D hope this helps!
 






1Lonewolf

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Cleaning Leather With Household Products

I don't think I would go with windex or pine sol to clean your leather seats. If you don't have a decent leather cleaner and conditioner, use a lightly damp rag (The key is to use as little water as needed) with just a few drops of mild hand soap worked into the rag to clean the leather.

Use firm pressure to wipe down the entire seat. Refresh the rag when it gets dirty, and replace the rag when it can't be rinsed clean. Remember, a LIGHTLY damp rag is what you should be using.

Use a separate rag that is lightly damp to wipe down the leather, to remove any soap. Use a third rag, DRY, to wipe it down one more time. Wait for the leather to be completely dry, then massage olive oil into the leather. About 5 drops on a clean dry rag will go a long ways. Use firm pressure to work the oil into the leather, adding more oil only when you are sure that all of the oil is out of the rag. You don't want to get the leather sopping wet with oil.

When you are all done, the leather should not be shiny, sticky or darker in color. It it is, use another clean, dry rag to buff off the excess oil.

There are special leather cleaners that you can get at your local auto parts store that will do a better job at a real deep cleaning, but you shouldn't need to use it all the time if you clean it good once, and use the above steps on a regular cleaning basis.
 






Ornery

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2006 Explorer EB V8 4WD
The "Finished" leather in these trucks probably doesn't need much more than mild, neutrally acidic soap like Ivory, or Murphy's Oil Soap, used sparingly. The seats are easy. What I'd like to know, is what to do with the steering wheel. It's constantly getting acid from your hands, and cleaning it too much eventually takes off the finish.

The dealer we bought our truck from, had some knucklehead repaint the steering wheel. In addition to over-spray on every surface, the paint has since come off. I'm ready to put some other finish on it, but not sure what. Maybe some kind of dye or paint with a sealer over it? Shoe polish? It's got to be sealed, or the skin acid will eat right through eventually. When I use "Leather" dressing, it just attracts dirt and grime, that has to be cleaned off, which further deteriorates the finish. I have to find some kind of solution, and I'll post back when I do...

Edit: I think this is on the right track: Leather Clear Coat I would have to dye it the correct color, then apply the clear coat. From then on, use mild soap to keep it clean. Well, that's my guess.
 






iowndavidson

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2006 Ford Explorer EB 4.6
I went with Lexol Cleaner and Conditioner this week for cleaning my leather. I must say that this stuff works really well. My buddy was also cleaning his leather in his highlander with Meguiar's cleaner and mine turned out much better than his. The lexol took out the oils in the leather and you could really see it on the microfiber towels that I was using. I just used a soft scrub brush and followed the instructions on the bottles and I'm extremely happy with the results.
 






Ornery

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“What exactly is ‘Finished leather’? “

This is the best article on leather I've found to date:

Finished+leather+_section.jpg


Be cognizant that you’re dealing with the finished coating on
the leather and not with the leather hide itself

Polyurethane (urethane) has micro-pores that allow evaporation and hydration (the passage of water vapour through a membrane or pore) they are not sealed per se. Oils are not compatible with water-based pigmented urethane coatings and their molecules are too large to permeate, although some may enter via stitching, usually it remains on the surface to be removed by clothing

Since the leather hide has a pigmented urethane layer and clear topcoat finish, when treating the leather, so you are in fact dealing with a urethane (to all intents and purposes, a ~150 µ (micron) thick plastic surface coating, about the same thickness as automobile clear coat paint; that simply needs to be kept clean and hydrated…it really is that simple. - togwt1980.blogspot.com
 






Sandra Quezada

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Do you have a finished type or unfinished type? Basic step to cleaning good quality leather is by using a damp cloth. Rub the damp cloth on the leather without putting too much of water on the leather. Use a gentle, moisturizing soap on the damp cloth and bring up a light lather. Rub the damp cloth on the leather. Don’t use too much of water on the leather. Wipe away lather with fresh damp cloth. Use a dry towel to polish it again. If it’s unfinished leather after wiping the lather allow it to air dry. If it is a finished leather, treat leather with a leather conditioner after it has dried completely. In unfinished one, you can oil leather with a leather preservative such as mink. It always suggested not to use cleaning kit items which is made of chemicals. It might risk your leather quality.
http://www.coja.com/buyers-guide/furniture-care/
 






RobertAF

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There are one good tips here on cleaning but, nobody mentioned how to clean the new Explorer seats. I have a 2013 with the heated and cooled seats. What is a good cleaner to use so that nothing leaks into the holes or gums them up so the heat and air will still come up through them?
 






Ornery

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If you were to place a sheet of plastic over your seat, you would find the heat and cold still radiates through it. Nothing you clean them with will stop that.

But, since you're in the wrong forum, you have to forget everything you heard here!
 






tmyc

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I have the light tan leather of 2008 eddie bauer. I've bought the stuff in O'Reilly's etc. Non work even Mequilliars. Best for me is a little Dawn on a damp sponge. Scrub and then wipe off. Works for me...

Another note for those who don't like Glossy look and brown after effects of Armor All on tires. I've always used Pledge on my tires. Never leaves brown, and makes the tires look like they did when they rolled off the line. The best Pure rubber look.
 






Ornery

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Dawn may be a little harsh. I'd be willing to try Ivory though. I'll try Pledge when spring arrives. Not too concerned about the "brown effect", but I'm always looking for cheaper and easier, thanks.
 






Boomyal

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I think a lot of people wish they could wash off the patina that develops with age and use. Don't think that is going to happen. It's not like vinyl that you can 'clean' back to virgin appearance.

That being said, from all I have been able to gather, you DO NOT want to use high alkaline soaps or detergents, ie, dish soap, 409, etc. One thing I have seen stated is that Simple Green is good.

I just bought a 2006 with light camel leather. I went and bought some Lexol Cleaner and Lexol conditioner. I have not used them yet but I do not expect them to make the leather look as new.
 






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