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Clearance Lights Installed!

01STrunner

Elite Explorer
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City, State
Greer, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 SAS'd Sport Trac
Slowly but surely my little Trac is dressing up as a Super Duty. Steering box, pitman arm, shocks and various other parts are for super duties and now I've got the lights to prove it lol. Now if I could get my hands on a 4.5L power stroke from a LCF truck...

Anyway, on to the write up.

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I extensively used this thread as a base: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2840163&posted=1#post2840163

Following along...

The overhead console is the same except there are 2 screws to unscrew from inside the garage door opener compartment. Of course I was most of the way through when I remembered to take pics.

After taking out the screws, there is 1 clip on each side about 3" from the front of the assembly. Be careful when you pull them out as the wiring harness for all of the functions is there. It is only the one harness.

Then, there is a metal plate to be removed with 2 screws. I used one of these screws to ground the light harness.

Next, I took off the sun visors. The visors are held in by 3 screws and then the little hook on that the clip to has a screw.

Then the pillar caps came off. They are only help in by clips, so a little jostling around and they come off fairly easily.

That will leave you with this:

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There is a little clip on the drivers side near the door about where the handle is on the passenger side. It will make your life a lot easier to take this thing out!

I took a very small 1x6 and put it between the roof and the headliner so that I didn't hit the headliner while drilling. I put it in the middle through the opening where the overhead console goes.

The next part was taping off the roof. This allows you to make marks on the roof and also kept the paint from being ruined around the holes. I masked off a large area with painters tape. I used a mix between the instructions that came with the kit and my own choices. I decided to put the middle 3 in the exact middle of the little grooves on the roof and then the outer 2 were directly in line with the outer grooves. All 5 lights were mounted 6" away from the rubber windshield surround.

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After masking everything off and measured (Do this THREE TIMES, you don't want to mess this up), I made a cardboard template to help line everything up. I started everything with the center light.

The mounting holes are 1/8" and the center holes are 3/4". I ended up using a step bit to work up to the 3/4 hole and it left a cleaner hole than using a regular bit. The picture above is after I had drilled the holes and pulled part of the harness through the roof.

Next was making sure that everything worked. As mentioned earlier, the ground was run to the screw above the overhead console. The hot wire was run down the driver side A-pillar following the wiring to the overhead console. In order to gain access to the headlight switch wiring, the kick panel under the steering wheel will need to be removed. There are 4 screws holding on the plastic cover (2 on the bottom and 2 that also hold on the hood release). These are all 7mm hex heads.

The metal plate is held on by 5 8mm hex head screws. After removing both, it is easy to see the wiring by laying back on the floor looking up.

You will see this:

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The purple connector you see is to the dimmer switch. in the lower loop coming out of this, you will see 2 brown wires. I checked and both are connected to the power of the parking lights. Wiring diagrams I consulted all say that the brown wire is for the parking light power.

After everything was hooked up, I turned the switch on and found that the yellow wire running to each light from the new harness is hot. I then connected the red wire side of each light to this. LEDs are polar so orientation matters when plugging them in. If they don't come on, it is possible all you need to do is turn them around.

At this point, I pulled all of the tape off. I wanted to make sure I wouldn't need to make any corrections.

Once I checked to make sure they all worked as designed, I then caulked around each hole and then simply screwed the housings into the roof. Then put the lens.

All the caulk was cleaned up and the various pieces of the interior were put back together yielding the final result. I am very happy with how they came out and that the lights are visible even in daytime.

Hopefully this convinces anyone thinking about adding cab roof lights that it is simple enough and helps to complete the project.

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That is one killer Trac! Lights look great.
 






Thanks man! Here's a couple night time pics

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man am i envious i need to get the wife a car she likes and make some more money so i can SAS. nice rig
 












Thanks guys
 












I had an 89 Bronco years ago with a lighted Lund visor, it used to light up the snow on the hood when driving around in a blizzard at night. I've always liked those clearance lights on trucks.

Nice touch IMO.
 






I've always thought they were cool since I was a little kid. I just like how they reflect off the hood at night. And it can't hurt having more marker lights for visibility.
 






Very cool. Good informative post too.

I wonder how those would look on Estate Green.
 


















Very cool. Good informative post too.

I wonder how those would look on Estate Green.

Thanks OT. I think yours would look better with amber lenses. But still awesome haha
 






So if you're going super duty style.... diesel swap?

If I can ever get my hands on a 4.5L power stroke I would. It has much better numbers than the Cummins 4BT and I bet I could use some parts for 6.0s since it's the same engine with 2 cylinders chopped off.
 






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