Solved Clicking noise from the dash.

[bryansr]

I've had an annoying electrical clicking periodically in my '98 EB. It usually occurs when it's really cold out and goes away once the cab warms up, but it never stopped this morning. Sometimes it's just a single click, sometimes it's like pouring milk over rice crispies. It doesn't seem to get better or worse when I use the turn signals, the heater is off or on, or when turning the wheel. It's coming from behind the panel by my left knee, and I can feel it through the panel when it's making the noise.

Any thoughts on what it might be? I'm at work now and don't have any tools to take the panel off, but kind of afraid to start home with it tonight for fear that something shorts out and starts a fire.

Thanks, Bryan

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you check to see if the blend door is working correctly? Sounds could travel so it's hard to determine where the source is when everything is covered up.

 

[koda2000]

Could be stripped blend door actuator. Pretty common issue. The actuator, which is electronically controlled, is located behind the glove box, on top of the heater box. There are plastic/nylon gears inside that can strip on and then skip. It may also be the blend door itself is broken.

If you can determine that the actuator is at fault (I've had 3 fail) be sure to get the correct actuator. There's one for the automatic HVAC controls and a different one for the manual HVAC controls.

 

[bryansr]

I can hear what I guess is the blend door moving when I change the temp or output, but this also happens when the heat is turned completely off. I'm pretty sure it's right behind the left side of the panel below the steering column because I can feel the panel vibrate when the noise occurs. And it's not a mechanical noise like stripped gears, it's more like a relay opening and closing.

 

[koda2000]

I can hear what I guess is the blend door moving when I change the temp or output, but this also happens when the heat is turned completely off. I'm pretty it's right behind the left side of the panel below the steering column because I can feel the panel vibrate when the noise occurs. And it's not a mechanical noise like stripped gears, it's more like a relay opening and closing.

If it's to the right of the steering col it's probably a relay. There's a box with a couple-3 relays near the gas pedal.

 

[bryansr]

When I started it to leave work last night, the popping and cracking behind the panel was the worst it's ever been. I found some tools at work to remove the panel below the steering column and the metal plate behind it, and the noise is coming from the steering column. I tilted the wheel down a couple notches and haven't heard it since, so I guess I'll be trying to run down a pinched wire in the column this weekend.

Thanks for the input
Bryan

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check to see if the horn & cruise control are working. It might be the clockspring.

 

[bryansr]

Check to see if the horn & cruise control are working. It might be the clockspring.

Both the horn and cruise are working normally

 

[BrooklynBay]

Does the steering column feel wobbly? Check the tilt mechanism, and the bolts which connect the column. Do you hear clicking even though the vehicle isn't in motion? Check the universal joint shaft which connects the steering column to the rack & pinion.

 

[bryansr]

Does the steering column feel wobbly? No

Do you hear clicking even though the vehicle isn't in motion? Yes

 

[bryansr]

So the sound of electric arcing has come back, and there's another thing happening now. I have a remote start, and when I start it before heading out in the morning the left turn signal will be flashing. It seems to happen more frequently in low temps and typically (but not always) stops when the wheel is tilted. Thinking it might be a bare wire I pulled the dash apart to get the harness out, but it all looked good. Any thoughts? I'm thinking the multifunction switch may be bad, but is there a way to test it to confirm before putting $80 into a new one?

 

[bryansr]

Anyone?? Over the 5 days I started it at 7am this week, Mon thru Thurs was in the 30 and 40s and the left signal was flashing every time. A quick tilt down and back up of the wheel and it stops. This morning it was in the 60s and the signal was not flashing. Could the multifunction switch cause this? I'm at a loss with what to do next.

 

[1998Exp]

Anyone?? Over the 5 days I started it at 7am this week, Mon thru Thurs was in the 30 and 40s and the left signal was flashing every time. A quick tilt down and back up of the wheel and it stops. This morning it was in the 60s and the signal was not flashing. Could the multifunction switch cause this? I'm at a loss with what to do next.

Not sure it's your problem, but there is a known issue with the turn signal connector at the multi-function switch. The shell of the connector crumbles and the contacts slide out (some claim it's not the problem of the shell, but the wires are too short and stretched). Perhaps a wire pulled out and is shorting against something. Check if your signal and hazard lights are working properly. And even if they do, it's worth a look. Warning: a replacement pigtail with the connector is readily available, but working in that tight space is not - especially if, like me, you want to solder things.

 

[bryansr]

I may have solved the problem. Over the weekend (and for the first time), I could correlate the electric arcing noise to motion in the multifunction switch. All it took was slight movement of the turn signal lever or barely wiggling the hazard light button. I removed the switch and took it apart, and the copper contacts were covered with a waxy, green, copper corrosion something. Nothing a piece of Scotchbrite, electronics cleaner, and an air hose wouldn't take care of. Got it cleaned up and applied a little dielectric grease to the contacts, and it works much smoother now and there's no extra noise. Not sure why it was acting up the most on colder mornings, but time will tell if this took care of it...

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update. The title was updated to show that the issue was solved.