Clicking Temp Blend Actuator Removal | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Clicking Temp Blend Actuator Removal

makuloco2000

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Joined
April 23, 2013
Messages
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Year, Model & Trim Level
2012 Explorer XLT
As luck would have it one of these Explorers with the infamous clicking actuator came in to be repaired. This one had no heat some fail in the full heat position. If yours has no temp control and clicking noises from the dash take a look at my video it may save you a boat load.
Average repair price $300-$500 at a shop.

 



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WHAT ?? You just posted this last night ???
I spent half a day reading post on instruction YESTERDAY.
I did get it out - back in today.
This is a VERY useful video for this problem.
I sure wish I saw this yesterday morning.
I actually cut the bottom 1/2 lip off that side panel (about 6") like some said, Looks like it not necessary.
I'm glad you included the tip, regarding testing the door with the door stem. I will do that before I put in the new actuator.
Anyway VERY NICE instructional on a very common and PRICEY repair (at a shop)
 






WHAT ?? You just posted this last night ???
I spent half a day reading post on instruction YESTERDAY.
I did get it out - back in today.
This is a VERY useful video for this problem.
I sure wish I saw this yesterday morning.
I actually cut the bottom 1/2 lip off that side panel (about 6") like some said, Looks like it not necessary.
I'm glad you included the tip, regarding testing the door with the door stem. I will do that before I put in the new actuator.
Anyway VERY NICE instructional on a very common and PRICEY repair (at a shop)

No no no do not butcher the dash pull back just a bit and it slides right past the dash easy, I would do it on camera but requires 2 hands. There is another video on how to butcher the dash to get a Taurus heater core out when you can pull the dash on one of those in 10min as in my heater core removal video and then you have all the room in the world. I don't know where people come up with this stuff. Well glad it helped you some halfway through the job.
 












makuloco2000, The "Clicking temp blend actuator removal." video is excellent! As are all of your other videos I have watched! You've got talent young man! As a mechanic, a videographer and as a teacher! THANKS for what you've given us! :salute: AlDeBear
 






The video is great thank you for posting it. I have a question I have the clicking it is stuck on heat so I am all set till summer. But I can't get air to come out of the defroster it will only come out of the dash vents. Is this all a function of the blend door actuator or is that another problem. Thanks again for the video.

Ben
 






The video is great thank you for posting it. I have a question I have the clicking it is stuck on heat so I am all set till summer. But I can't get air to come out of the defroster it will only come out of the dash vents. Is this all a function of the blend door actuator or is that another problem. Thanks again for the video.

Ben

The blend door you are having an issue with is controlled to the right of the stereo. If you drop the glove box and look up toward the stereo you'll see the actuator and find it's no longer attached to the door. The arm of the door that it attached to has broken off.

Some have rigged it to work, depending on where it breaks.
Otherwise, it's a 200 part from the dealer and you have to remove the dash.
 






Excellent video, im in Australia, and although the steering wheel is on the right hand side of the vehicle. This post was spot on. I thought the door was jammed for sure, bit the noise was identical, helped so much.

Thank you so much.
 






Went out to run errands this morning and heard this noise. Then the "Check Charging system" came on... New alternator installed.... Now I need the blend door actuator. Great video!!! Thanks.!!!

PS anyone want to buy an 05 Ex?
 






Well, second time for me in 5 years and 40k miles in between on my '05.

Interesting enough, my original replacement (which came from NAPA) was a reboxed OE unit. That gives me two failed OE units in about equal time. First one failed at 50k, second one failed at 95k.
Went back to NAPA, and this time the Dorman unit isn't a reboxed OE part, I'm hoping this means it's been beefed up.

Thought I'd post one thing on the top most fastener. If you remove the knee panel under the steering wheel, you can access the top screw with a long extension fairly easy. To put it back in, push the screw through some painters tape and fasten the tape to the socket. This will keep the screw from falling off.
 

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