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Clicks when starting

intheric

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Adding one more problem to the pile.

I go out to take the truck for a spin around the neighborhood and when I go to start it, I get these repetitive click when I turn the key. Accessories come on. It wants to start but no dice. Waited a few and tried again and it started up.

tried again today and same thing but no starting. Battery is brand new. Guess the starter is bad? Or the alternator?
 


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Rick

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How did your cables and terminals look? The cables can often become badly corroded under the insulation. A sure sign is if it's swelled up.

Could also be the solenoid itself that's bad.
 




intheric

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Well, this all came about from when my friend came over to check out the problem with the idling and stalling I’ve been having. Went to take it for a spin, and this happened. We googled for a while where the solenoid was but couldn’t find any pictures or video of the actual location. Just some shaky vids and diagrams from the 80s. So he texted me after and said to start with the starter motor first then the solenoid since it’s getting power and wants to turn, but doesn’t.
 




1998Exp

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Usually "clicks" are a sure sign of a bad or discharged battery. Your battery may be new, but you may have a problem with the alternator. Did you check that the new battery was being charged after replacement? Take a multimeter and measure the battery voltage while attempting to start. Or, using the old trick, turn on the headlights and see if they dim significantly. Assuming no problem with the battery, I concur with Rick about the cables and/or connections. This includes the ground path!
On a '99 there is no separate solenoid - it's a part of the starter. There is, however, a relay, in the power distribution box (with a bunch of other relays and fuses). The box should be under the hood, on the driver side. Your owner manual will identify the exact relay position.
 




intheric

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I don’t have a multi reader but I’ll try the lights trick after work. And you’re saying there’s NO separate solenoid for this truck? I was looking for replacement parts and it was listed on rockauto. He did check the fuses and relays in the box. They looked fine, but we didn’t have any way of testing them. Again, this wasn’t the problem we expected when he came over to check the idling problem.

Thanks for the help. it’s a start to fix another problem.
 




1998Exp

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...
And you’re saying there’s NO separate solenoid for this truck? I was looking for replacement parts and it was listed on rockauto.
...
My 1998 EVTM book does not show any solenoid, and my 98-1/2 Ex certainly doesn't have one. I would be very surprised if Ford suddenly reverted to the obsolete fender-mounted solenoid design in a 99 model.
The clicking that you are hearing is because when the starter attempts to spin, the battery voltage drops so low that the bendix mechanism inside disengages. When it disengages the load is removed, the voltage rises, and the cycle repeats. Look for a discharged battery or very poor connections. Worn relay contacts are possible too, but less likely.
 




intheric

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My 1998 EVTM book does not show any solenoid, and my 98-1/2 Ex certainly doesn't have one. I would be very surprised if Ford suddenly reverted to the obsolete fender-mounted solenoid design in a 99 model.
The clicking that you are hearing is because when the starter attempts to spin, the battery voltage drops so low that the bendix mechanism inside disengages. When it disengages the load is removed, the voltage rises, and the cycle repeats. Look for a discharged battery or very poor connections. Worn relay contacts are possible too, but less likely.
Thanks. I went to get something out the back today and the battery is dead dead. Nothing left. The radio cut on but died and the little anti theft light is blinking. Couldn’t even use the remote to unlock. So ill probably get an alternator this week. Any recommendations? Looked at rockauto earlier but they all read the same to me
 




XLTrunner

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My recommendation is to buy a New one...not, a Rebuilt. It's been a long time since I've had to buy a new alternator (can usually find a newer replacement at the local U Pull for my vehicles for a fraction of the cost if I keep an eye out before I actually need one) so, I'm not too current on best name brands out there. If I were to buy a new one, I'd probably go with a Remy Gold.

Here's what I would do before you spend the money...charge up your battery and see if that confirms your suspicion of the alternator being the root cause. Buy a multimeter (every owner who works on their own vehicles should own one of these) and take some voltage output readings with the vehicle running. The fact that the vehicle starts with the battery charged usually eliminates a bad battery, cable connections and starter/solenoid. Voltage output will confirm that the alternator is or isn't working.
 




intheric

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My recommendation is to buy a New one...not, a Rebuilt. It's been a long time since I've had to buy a new alternator (can usually find a newer replacement at the local U Pull for my vehicles for a fraction of the cost if I keep an eye out before I actually need one) so, I'm not too current on best name brands out there. If I were to buy a new one, I'd probably go with a Remy Gold.

Here's what I would do before you spend the money...charge up your battery and see if that confirms your suspicion of the alternator being the root cause. Buy a multimeter (every owner who works on their own vehicles should own one of these) and take some voltage output readings with the vehicle running. The fact that the vehicle starts with the battery charged usually eliminates a bad battery, cable connections and starter/solenoid. Voltage output will confirm that the alternator is or isn't working.
Afternoon.
Finally getting around to shopping for alternators. Came across this one. I went to take the old one out yesterday but apparently my socket wrench is too small to pull the pulley arm back and loosen the belt. Hopefully the set I have at work will do the trick and I can check the amp. Appreciate your help in this!!
BD921906-D04B-46F2-BEF0-32347ADA9C9C.png
 




C420sailor

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Rebuilding your own alternator usually yields the longest lasting results. If it’s the original Motorcraft, I would definitely rebuild it. Same with a Motorcraft starter. Otherwise? Buy new.

You didn’t have any indications of poor charging? Idiot light and/or gauge?
 




intheric

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Rebuilding your own alternator usually yields the longest lasting results. If it’s the original Motorcraft, I would definitely rebuild it. Same with a Motorcraft starter. Otherwise? Buy new.

You didn’t have any indications of poor charging? Idiot light and/or gauge?
Pretty sure it’s the original alternator. Time is of the essence now so I’m just replacing parts. And with out a car, getting around outside of work is impossible. And with it being a 99, a new alt won’t be so bad.

didn’t have any clues to bad charging. I bought a new battery, back in may. Before I went back to work. And every time I started it up it was fine. Just the day it had a hard turn. Waited a few min and started right up. The next day was the clicking.

Im about to go out and pull this thing out so I can match up the amps and order a new one. Appreciate the help!
 












donalds

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Pretty sure it’s the original alternator. Time is of the essence now so I’m just replacing parts. And with out a car, getting around outside of work is impossible. And with it being a 99, a new alt won’t be so bad.

didn’t have any clues to bad charging. I bought a new battery, back in may. Before I went back to work. And every time I started it up it was fine. Just the day it had a hard turn. Waited a few min and started right up. The next day was the clicking.

Im about to go out and pull this thing out so I can match up the amps and order a new one. Appreciate the help!
My 99 alternator rebuild

 




J_C

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I guess I'm just lucky, haven't had any problem with my Advance Auto Carquest reman alternator, though a few considerations I made were that I don't take my '98 on long trips, it has a lifetime warranty, is pretty quick/easy to replace, and Advance Auto is less than 2 mi. away... though those are more expensive now at $165, back when I replaced mine it was $107 after a $40 off $100 coupon code. Oddly they've reduced the core charge, used to be $35 but now $17. For $17 I'd keep it and rebuild when convenient to do so.

 




intheric

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I guess I'm just lucky, haven't had any problem with my Advance Auto Carquest reman alternator, though a few considerations I made were that I don't take my '98 on long trips, it has a lifetime warranty, is pretty quick/easy to replace, and Advance Auto is less than 2 mi. away... though those are more expensive now at $165, back when I replaced mine it was $107 after a $40 off $100 coupon code. Oddly they've reduced the core charge, used to be $35 but now $17. For $17 I'd keep it and rebuild when convenient to do so.

That’s what I was thinking. I even noticed the core charges have dropped, and I’m a beginner at this car maintenance stuff lol. I’ve been looking between oreillys advance and auto zone since they are literally 50ft from each other 1/4 of a mile from my house on pricing. Some name brands and some rebuilts being offered so it’s more pricing. I’ve read some reviews where out of the box alts die within a year and name brand $250+ last longer. This original from MC lasted in my truck since 1999. At least it’s a somewhat easy fix 🤣

where do I find the amps on this thing. I googled the part number on the back and it comes up as both. It’s an original motor craft FIDU 10316-AA

thanks for the reply!
 




intheric

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I guess I'm just lucky, haven't had any problem with my Advance Auto Carquest reman alternator, though a few considerations I made were that I don't take my '98 on long trips, it has a lifetime warranty, is pretty quick/easy to replace, and Advance Auto is less than 2 mi. away... though those are more expensive now at $165, back when I replaced mine it was $107 after a $40 off $100 coupon code. Oddly they've reduced the core charge, used to be $35 but now $17. For $17 I'd keep it and rebuild when convenient to do so.

Thanks for that link too!! Managed to get another 25% off too signing up (again) for email alerts
 




J_C

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🤣

where do I find the amps on this thing. I googled the part number on the back and it comes up as both. It’s an original motor craft FIDU 10316-AA

thanks for the reply!

AFAIK that part is the regulator and appears on both the 95A and 130A. 130A is larger, you could set yours side by side with a 95A to see if it's larger, but I'd go ahead and get the 130A as there is no downside to having the larger alternator, the smaller was just Ford cost cutting for stripped down vehicles, especially rangers with fewer electrical accessories to power. They both bolt in the same, are interchangeable.

At the same time, unless you're running a stereo amp, you could probably get by fine with the 95A too... if I had a spare 95A version lying around, I'd use it instead of letting it sit and buying a 130A instead.
 




intheric

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AFAIK that part is the regulator and appears on both the 95A and 130A. 130A is larger, you could set yours side by side with a 95A to see if it's larger, but I'd go ahead and get the 130A as there is no downside to having the larger alternator, the smaller was just Ford cost cutting for stripped down vehicles, especially rangers with fewer electrical accessories to power. They both bolt in the same, are interchangeable.

At the same time, unless you're running a stereo amp, you could probably get by fine with the 95A too... if I had a spare 95A version lying around, I'd use it instead of letting it sit and buying a 130A instead.
Thanks! I found a side by side picture on the forums and I’ve got the 130 amp. So hopefully tomorrow it stops raining and I can get a new one and get it in. I was wondering the what the difference in the 2 were. Thanks for explaining that!!
 


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intheric

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AFAIK that part is the regulator and appears on both the 95A and 130A. 130A is larger, you could set yours side by side with a 95A to see if it's larger, but I'd go ahead and get the 130A as there is no downside to having the larger alternator, the smaller was just Ford cost cutting for stripped down vehicles, especially rangers with fewer electrical accessories to power. They both bolt in the same, are interchangeable.

At the same time, unless you're running a stereo amp, you could probably get by fine with the 95A too... if I had a spare 95A version lying around, I'd use it instead of letting it sit and buying a 130A instead.

afternoon!

have another question. So I found a Remy alt on rockauto (923062), but the part number (f77u10316AA) on the back part on my regulator (?) doesn’t come up on the OEM list of that part on rockauto. So I did some more searching and found a regulator on eBay that was made to replace the original (VP4L2U10316AA). So would this alt
AFAIK that part is the regulator and appears on both the 95A and 130A. 130A is larger, you could set yours side by side with a 95A to see if it's larger, but I'd go ahead and get the 130A as there is no downside to having the larger alternator, the smaller was just Ford cost cutting for stripped down vehicles, especially rangers with fewer electrical accessories to power. They both bolt in the same, are interchangeable.

At the same time, unless you're running a stereo amp, you could probably get by fine with the 95A too... if I had a spare 95A version lying around, I'd use it instead of letting it sit and buying a 130A instead.

afternoon!

have another question. So I found a Remy alt on rockauto (923062), but the part number (f77u10316AA) on the back part on my regulator (?) doesn’t come up on the OEM list of that part on rockauto. So I did some more searching and found a regulator on eBay that was made to replace the original (VP4L2U10316AA). So would this alt not be a good fit for my truck?

thanks again
 




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