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Clutch Bleeding Problem

bluestream

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2000 XLT 4X4 SOHC
I am having trouble bleeding the clutch slave cylinder on my 91 X 5 speed. I have been able to loosen the bleed screw, and the fluid starts to run out, but there is no nipple on the screw to attatch the drain hose. Do I have to remove the bleed screw to get at the nipple? I have a vaccum bleeder, but can't hook it up. I have let some fluid gravity drain through the system, but the clutch pedal is still soft.

Also, do I need a second person to pump the pedal when the fluid is draining? I have not been able to find a thread with any info on where the nipple is to attatch the drain hose.

Any ideas?
 



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JoshC

Only rolled it once honey
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Yes there should be a nipple on the bleeder screw, it might be broke off. You'll have to have someone pumping the clutch just like you do a brake system. I think the clutch system is a pain in the butt to bleed cause of the hydralic line hanging down on the frame, it traps air.
 






Doug

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It's possible the nipple broke off but i cant see how that would happen it's pretty well protected where it is. You're gonna need some one up in the truck to help you bleed the clutch and there is a specific technique to doing it. If you have a haynes or chiltons manual it tells you how to do it. It's more involved than just pumping it up and then opening the bleeder.
 






bluestream

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I am assuming that the nipple was broken off by the mechanic who replaced the clutch last time. The nipple should be on the bleeder valve right? Is there any way to bleed the thing with out having that nipple? (I will have to order a new one) I have the Haynes manual, and have followed the directions, but as soon as I open the valve the fluid starts to run out. Is is the time to have the assistant pump the pedal? I would guess so.

I would like to have used the vacuume bleeder, but without the nipple it's useless.

Ever get the feeling you should have never started a job?
 






Doug

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Follow the directions in the manual. you dont *need* the nipple you're gonna just end up spraying fluid all over the place with out a hole on the end.
 






bluestream

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I am going to try and post a picture of my bleeder screw. I don't know how the nipple came off, but I am going to try and bleed this thing with jusy a hose on the bolt.

This is a picture of the bleeder screw.
91X.JPG
 






fordracing02

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i have bled a few of these and they are not the easiest. your bleeder is fine. if you replaced the slave cylinder, or emptied it, the best way to do it is with a pressure bleeder, vacuum bleeders do not work very well. i did on on a ranger and the way i did it was to have somebody open the bleeder, then slowly push the pedal to the floor and right as you get it down, close the screw. then pump it up about 5 times, then bleed it again the same way about 20 times. this does work good, it just takes awhile. you will slowly feel the pedal at the bottom and it will move up very gradually each time.
the bleeder is not broken, that is the way itis supposed to be.
 






JoshC

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That's not the way mine looks.
 






bluestream

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I just wonder how are you to get a plastic hose to go on this fitting? It does look like there is something missing.
I did talk to my mechanic and he says the only way he get Explorer clutches to bleed properly is by forcing fluid from the bleed valve to the reservior.
 






navyX04

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I just stuffed a big rag up in there to catch most of the fluid when it came out of the hole. I had the best luck pumping the pedal and then cracking the bleeder and then pushing the pedal to the floor, hold, then tighten the bleeder. What I found was I had to replace the clutch master cylinder because the old one was just too worn out to push the fluid. Once I replaced the master I only had to bleed it twice and it was fine. I think when it is difficult to bleed the system it is a sign that the master has seen better days.
 






bluestream

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I was able to bleed the clutch using the "pump the pedal" method, and it worked well. This has cured my problem of not being able to shift smoothly into first gear or reverse. The problem was worse when the vehicle was hot. I am guessing that the old fluid is so thin that it will not push the slave cyclinder in far enough and allow the clutch to disengauge.

I used a clear vinyl hose that I forced over the bleed fitting, The hose directed all of the old fluid into a can for collection. There was a lot of dirty fluid to be flushed out. The whole thing took about 15 min. as we let the reservoir run dry one time by mistake. I also read in the achives that raising the rear of the vehicle would help with the air that gets traped in the slave cyclinder. I don't know if this helped, but I did it anyway. I was not able to do this with the vacuum bleeder that I had, but the pump method work very well and was easy.
 






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