clutch finally went, anybody have part# for the slave?

[Chrome_Rush]

Well my clutch finally started slipping last night during normal driving so to e to take the explorer off the road until I can fix it. I already have an luk clutch set and new luk flywheel. I'm having trouble locating a slave cylinder, I can't seem to find the right part number. I have found a few that claim they are for my 91, but I've come across several different part numbers for the same part and don't know which is correct. I don't want to rake it apart and find I have the wrong slave.

Also my speedo has that stupid bounce, everyone says it's not the speedo cable or the speed sensor but something in the Trans itself is worn, what exactly am I looking for here, I would really like to fix this while it's apart. It's a 91 2wd bte, so no transfer case.

 

[Number4]

I'm only seeing two options at NAPA, a 73002 and a 73002B. One comes with the release bearing and the other doesn't. This may be what you are finding and thinking there are two different units.

You'll want to replace the release bearing, so get the slave that has it already.

 

[Chrome_Rush]

Most people say nit to go near a parts store replacement as they all fail within a year and only to go with an oem ford part. That's what I'm looking fir, unless people have had luck with another brand that isn't a cheap Chinese pos?

 

[RangerX]

Most people say nit to go near a parts store replacement as they all fail within a year and only to go with an oem ford part. That's what I'm looking fir, unless people have had luck with another brand that isn't a cheap Chinese pos?

I got mine from LUK as a package with the clutch when I did mine years ago, but it seems like they no longer provide slaves?
I would check with our site vendor Levittown Ford, they will have the part number and the part at a better price than your local dealer.

 

[Chrome_Rush]

Luk still sells a replacement slave, I've just heard so much bad about aftermarket ones I haven't heard anyone say an aftermarket held up for them. How long have you had your luk installed and any issues with it?

 

[Number4]

Don't know about the slave, but my OE clutch set was LUK.

 

[RangerX]

It's probably been 12 years or so on it, and a huge amount of miles.
And yeah, my factory clutch was LUK too, that's why I went with them.
I don't know how their quality is these days, but I would at least compare pricing on theirs and a Ford part.

 

[2stroke]

I think people go a little overboard on "OEM or nothing" parts. If you can find a motorcraft slave, get it, but good luck. I looked for a week, and the dealer wanted like $170. Remember that Motorcraft isn't a manufacturer, its just a brand. I don't know who makes the slave cylinders, but its most likely many different manufacturers. Bosch is huge in ford parts. I went with Orileys brand, and it was $50 with a lifetime warranty. It hasn't missed a beat.

 

[RangerX]

I went with Orileys brand, and it was $50 with a lifetime warranty. It hasn't missed a beat.

Great price and lifetime warranty is great, but when it dies, you have to drop the trans to change it out, or pay to have it done. The warranty doesn't cover that.
To me it's worth an extra hundred or so to not have to do that in a year or two...

 

[Chrome_Rush]

That's what I'm thinking also, but if people haven't had issues with the luk slave or the Napa slave those are also typically good parts. There are of course brands I stay away from, but I haven't had any bad luck with those 2 brands. They are obviously both much cheaper and easy to get also. Not knowing the correct part number, I really can't even look for a ford slave. Every time I search I get multiple part numbers that "claim" to be the right part. They may just all be revisions, but if there was a revision it happened for a reason, so obviously I want the most current.

 

[larrydd999]

You also had a question about the speedometer. Check this thread for a possible solution: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=388935

 

[Chrome_Rush]

You also had a question about the speedometer. Check this thread for a possible solution: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=388935

I've seen this thread, it really does me no good though considering I don't have a transfer case.

 

[RangerX]

Not knowing the correct part number, I really can't even look for a ford slave. Every time I search I get multiple part numbers that "claim" to be the right part. They may just all be revisions, but if there was a revision it happened for a reason, so obviously I want the most current.

Can't you just go to a dealership and get the number from them?
I believe the coupling design changed a time or two over the years, so different year slaves won't always click into a different year hydraulic line. Best to get a slave for your year vehicle, and not try to get a later improved design part.

 

[Chrome_Rush]

I didn't say a part for a different model/year, I said a revision, it is not the same thing. Ford revises parts all the time. A revision is an improvement of a weak point in a part, not a part for something else. The part that fits the 91 has been revised several times over the years. You always want the latest revision of a part, it will have less weak points that can lead to issues. If it was for another year it wouldn't be a revision it would be a completely different part. I asked the dealer to look it up, they didn't want to bother. I would rather not drive around town to every dealer hoping one is willing to look it up for me.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Check this:
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/C...Search=1&keyword=Clutch Slave Cylinder#Search

Basically, you're looking for part number 7A564 but in that will be different revisions for different purposes/vehicles. Looks like F1TZ-7A564-A is the one you need. The upgraded/newer model seems to be 6L2Z-7A564-A.

 

[Chrome_Rush]

Holly balls! For 243 dollars I may just take my chances with an aftermarket from luk or a napa part (which almost always seems to be higher quality parts then you get at the other stores) that's a massive price difference when the luk can be had shipped for less then 50.

Anybody know which aftermarket part would be the best bet? Also, any other things I should do while the tranny is out of this thing, I plan to change the rear main seal with a fellow pro ptfe seal. I will probably change the fluid, any recommendations for that? I also read somewhere it's a good idea to glue in the plugs at the top of the tranny?

 

[Number4]

I've got the NAPA one ready to go in. I also picked up the hose that goes into the slave.

 

[Chrome_Rush]

Does the Napa one have a steel body where it bolts on like the original or is it plastic?

 

[Number4]

Does the Napa one have a steel body where it bolts on like the original or is it plastic?

See post #5
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428278

The NAPA one looks just like the OE one, the one pictured was the OE, it's plastic. (In the link above, post #5)

I also have a '94 vs your '91. The '94 uses a 73003B whe yours is a 73002B. Difference should be the housing material.

73002B:

 

[jd4242]

Holly balls! For 243 dollars I may just take my chances with an aftermarket from luk or a napa part (which almost always seems to be higher quality parts then you get at the other stores) that's a massive price difference when the luk can be had shipped for less then 50.

Anybody know which aftermarket part would be the best bet? Also, any other things I should do while the tranny is out of this thing, I plan to change the rear main seal with a fellow pro ptfe seal. I will probably change the fluid, any recommendations for that? I also read somewhere it's a good idea to glue in the plugs at the top of the tranny?

Pretty sure the vendor on here gets them for around $150..i too say use OE but each his own,i currently have been using a slave that came with my jasper rebuilt trans,dont know the name but its a plasic model and has been working good for me..i only used it because this trans aint staying on long...

I use a qt of straight 30wt motor oil with atf in my trans,i dont think atf is sticky or thick enough alone to keep the synchronizer from wearing out..one of my buddies own a trans shop and said hes been doing that for years..

The rubber plugs should be replaced with metal ones