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Clutch problems please help!!!!!

4x4Ranger

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City, State
Wisconsin
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT
Here's the deal...the clutch wore out on my ranger so i replaced it with a centerforce dual friction, replaced slave cyl. and throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and hydraulic line going from the master cylinder to the slave(I broke the old one). Now its all back together and the slave isn't moving. I bled it per the haynes manual, that didn't work. I got the Ford manual instructions from the Exlporer tips section. It says to remove the hydraulic line from the slave and see if the pedal is tight or spongy. Its spongy if that...it is really free. So I bleed the line per the instructions from Ford. The pedal still has no feel to it. wtf?! Again I'm using the old master cylinder, which was working fine with the old clutch, and a new hydraulic line to the slave. Right now I have the master cyl. out. Anyone have any ideas on what to do? I'm totally out of ideas. The Ford instructions say the pedal should feel firm. But it never does. And the master cylinder worked fine when I took it out. Help
 



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slow-demon

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Hawaii
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'91 xl sport
speaking from experiece

Sounds like you have air in the clutch master cylinder. If you look at the master cylinder you will notice that it is mounted at an angle. This means that you cannot bleed the master successfully while it's mounted in the car. What you will have to do is take out the master cylinder and bleed it on the bench. All I do to bleed it is plug the hydraulic line hole up and pump the master push rod. While doing this watch inside the resevoir and look for bubbles. Pump the master at different angles besides just level. When there is no bubbles you will notice the push rod will get hard, which means there is no air in it. Now the tricky part, you will have to install the master with the hole plugged. Then remove the plug and install the plastic clutch line as quickly as you can without the master loosing all of it's fluid. You should leave the cap on the master cause this slows down the fluid from coming out. Then you will have to bleed the clutch the normal way by opening the slave cylinder bleeder screw. Does this make any sense?
 






Cameron

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My truck is still in the shop for this problem. I lost my clutch about two week ago. More accurately, the slave and master cylinders were bad. They replaced them (took about a week because they are/were on back order) and found that after they installed them the clutch still didn't work. They assumed it was air in the fluid but found that it was a defective slave cylinder. So it will take about a week to get a new one!

Just a thought.
 






4x4Ranger

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slow-demon
Thanks for the ideas..I'm gooing to try that tonight. I HOPE so bad thats the problem. I really need to get my truck going...driving the beater S10 I'm driving is hell! Thanks man

Cameron-
Hopefully that is not the case... I believe the problem is before the slave...but that just means I havn't bled the slave yet!
 






Cameron

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Keep us updated!
 






4x4Ranger

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Update!!!

PROGRESS!!! Finally! God that feels good to say. I ended up putting the system back together and pumping the slave cylinder with a crowbar, then pumping the hell outta the pedal. BUT, after many normal bleeds (i release bleeder, friend pushes clutch, I close bleeder, friend releases clutch, pumping clutch in between bleeds) I still only have feel in the pedal about halfway down. I assume I have to keep bleeding until it gets to the top? Its taking a long time and I'm barely getting bubbles. Thanks again for your help guys!!

Adam
 






Cameron

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Today marks the second week my truck has been in the shop! I know it's not CarMax's fault that the parts are on back order. I'm seriously going through Explorer withdrawals.

Glad to hear yours is up and running!
 






dddddddaann

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wasilla
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ranger XLT '93
where is the bleeder valve for the clutch on a 93 ranger?
 






94ExplorMore

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Victoria, B.C.
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94 SuperStock
Sounds like you have air in the clutch master cylinder. If you look at the master cylinder you will notice that it is mounted at an angle. This means that you cannot bleed the master successfully while it's mounted in the car. What you will have to do is take out the master cylinder and bleed it on the bench. All I do to bleed it is plug the hydraulic line hole up and pump the master push rod. While doing this watch inside the resevoir and look for bubbles. Pump the master at different angles besides just level. When there is no bubbles you will notice the push rod will get hard, which means there is no air in it. Now the tricky part, you will have to install the master with the hole plugged. Then remove the plug and install the plastic clutch line as quickly as you can without the master loosing all of it's fluid. You should leave the cap on the master cause this slows down the fluid from coming out. Then you will have to bleed the clutch the normal way by opening the slave cylinder bleeder screw. Does this make any sense?

i just purchased a bran new master cylinder and the instructions said do not bench bleed so im gunna try and put it in and then bleed it, and the rod that hooks onto the pedal .... do the teeth go on the outside or the inside of the pedal i dont wanna break the plastic it was a 100$ part
 






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