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Clutch problems

93Expo4x4

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Hey guys, so recently I was driving home and I down shifted from 5th to 4th, and as I did so I must have pressed the clutch too hard and I popped the clutch line out of the slave cylinder. So I got it home, and I cracked the bleeder on the slave cylinder and put the hose back in along with the clip. Closed the bleeder and gave it a couple rugs and called it good. The next day I noticed after driving it for about 5 or 10 minutes that the clutch wasn't fully disengaging. It was hard to put into any gear when at a stop. And especially didn't like reverse. So I bled the system out with a fluid evacuator. All good for the next 2 days. Now driving it home from work I seemed to go back to doing the same thing. When stopped, clutch pedal all the way to the floor, and in 1st the truck wants to go forwards. Like the clutch is still barely engaged. Not really sure what to do now, I peeked at the slave and no leaks, master cylinder is full of fluid, clutch is supposedly new. When pushing the clutch down from the top of the pedal there is about an inch or two of play until the clutch starts to disengage. out of ideas. Seriously. Any information is appreciated
 



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2stroke

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Check the o rings in the connectors, then bleed it again. If no go, take the master cylinder/reservoir out, and bench bleed it upside down.
 






RangerX

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What exactly does supposedly new clutch mean? Did you pay to get a new one, or just buy this Ex and was told is new?
 






93Expo4x4

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Bought it and was told it was new. Didn't have any problems with it before the line popped off. So it's turned into a intermittent thing, only happens when I drive home. Kinda weird. When it starts becoming hard to shift, I put it into neutral push the clutch all the way in and slip my foot off, then it will disengage fully, which leads me to think that there is air in the master. Anyone ever bled it backward? By pushing fluid from the bottom up? Just a thought. With a big syringe full of brake fluid making sure there isn't any air in it and pulling the cap and seal off the reservoir and pushing he fluid and air out the top. Yes it will make a mess, but worth a shot?
 






RangerX

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Yeah, that's been done, try that. But I would first unbolt the master from the fireall and tilt it, then bleed. If you look at the master as mounted, there's a spot where air can get trapped, and since you suspect that...

Has the hydraulic line popped off more than once? Possibly they did not use the correct slave. I've read many times that there are slight differences by year in the line/slave connection design, and the slave needs to be for the same year as the line.
 






93Expo4x4

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No just that one time. Haven't had an issue with it since. I drive about 80 miles a day, mostly freeways. What all has to be disconnected to unbolt the master? Anything from the pedal assembly itself?
 






Josh P

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With the clutch in my van, I had to pop the c clip out of the master cylinder and lift the rod up to get the air out. I put a towel under it and when fluid started to flow out I pushed the rod back down and snapped the clip in.
 






93Expo4x4

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With the clutch in my van, I had to pop the c clip out of the master cylinder and lift the rod up to get the air out. I put a towel under it and when fluid started to flow out I pushed the rod back down and snapped the clip in.

Under the pedal assembly inside the truck? Anyone else done this?
 






RangerX

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It's been years, but I think it's just two bolts that hold it to the firewall, and then disconnect the pushrod at the pedal, being careful not to break that little clip. The hydro line stays connected. Then just turn it to the angle it needs to be. Then do the force-bleeding.
 












93Expo4x4

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The best angle for the master then is to have it completely level? Instead of the angle it sits at bolted to the fire wall?
 






RangerX

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In this pic, the cyl is roughly at the angle as when it's mounted to the wall. Look at the top left end of the cyl, see how it's the high point and therefore an air trap? That's what you need to eliminate by tilting the piece.
 

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93Expo4x4

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The way mine sits is at a downward angle.. From where it bolts to the firewall is at a downward angle.
 






Number4

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Two bolts to fire wall. Unit angles up to the wall. You won't be able to plunge the rod/piston without the rod attached to the pedal. With the rod inserted into the master, you won't be able to pull it out into the engine bay enough to angle it the other direction.

Take two small flat head screw drivers, slide them into the master cylinder where the rod goes in. There are to tangs you need to depress. This will allow you to pull the rod out. Then you should be able to angle the back end of the cylinder up and let the air bleed out.
 






Number4

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Under the pedal assembly inside the truck? Anyone else done this?

Works like a charm. But now mine leaks a little each time I press it in.
 






RangerX

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The way mine sits is at a downward angle.. From where it bolts to the firewall is at a downward angle.

Ugh, you're right, mine does too. Like I said, it's been years. ;)
But that just means the air pocket potential is in the other end of the cylinder. The high end can trap air.
 






93Expo4x4

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So I bench bled the system last night, still no change. But when removing the master from the fire wall I noticed it was somewhat "wet" being that it was damp, am I safe to say the master is the issue? If it's leaking? When I press the plunger into the master it also leaks from the rod. A fairly decent amount of fluid. Could it be when the line disconnected from the slave that me jamming on the clutch pedal when I had no clue what was going on that I could have blew a seal in the master cylinder? Trans shifts normal until truck is warmed up.
 






93Expo4x4

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Clutch pedal also engages right off of the floor. About an inch. Maybe less. It's got me so stumped and frustrated. The slave isn't leaking, peaked through the bell housing.
 






Number4

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If it shifts normal until warmed up, I'd think it would be an issue with the transmission itself.
 



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93Expo4x4

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It's an issue of the clutch not fully disengaging. It shifts like butter when the truck is off so I'm not concerned on it being the trans. And it shifts normal on days it doesn't do it
 






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