Clutch wont fully disengage | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Clutch wont fully disengage

Shadow91

Member
Joined
September 23, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Graham, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 Explorer XL
Okay.. so I'm having some issues with my clutch... 95% of the time my tranny shifts as smooth as silk, and I have no issues shifting it into gear. But every once in awhile it will stick and not disengage when the clutch is pressed and even pumped.. It either won't want to go into 1st from neutral or it is really hard to shift out of gear. I get no granding whatsoever either... any ideas?
 



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Can someone give me any ideas? Sorry, i'd seach more but my computer crashed and so I've been only able to use my phone and it sucks to try to go through it all on it... I think its the master cylinder? Can someone back me up on that?
 






Throw out bearing sounds like its bad. When was the last time the clutch was done? Is there any rattle noise or anything else when you are trying to disengage the clutch?
 






I just replaced the whole clutch and slave not even 2000 miles ago.. its all brand new.. I get no noises at all.. its just sticks and doesn't want to let go sometimes...
 






Sticky Clutch

I have a very similar problem with my 91 4-door 4wd except that mine always does it. Ever since I rebuilt the transmission about 10,000 miles ago(ran dry) with a new input shaft and cluster it will not shift into any gear until the clutch is held down for 4 or more seconds. After 4 seconds the clutch is perfectly free and I can throw the stick around and it's like shifting with the engine off. If I attempt tp shift into any gear in less than 4 seconds, the synchro's block and it won't go into any gear. It's like trying to shift with the engine running and the clutch engaged. When stopping, if I slow to a stop while holding the clutch down, it drags slightly when stopped. It can be forced into neutral as the drag is slight. Once in neutral, it begins the 4 second thing. The spline is free, the fwheel and PPlate is perfectly smooth except for .006" wear with concentric minor groove patterns on both, and the disc is worn like the one above. It's clean and dry. The engagement is smooth and consistent. Any ideas?
 






One more place to look at when the clutch won't fully disengage, is under the dash. There's a cast plate that the clutch and brake pedals hang from. That plate can crack and flex when using the clutch, taking up pedal travel. Also look at the plastic bushings that the pedals pivot from.
 






Good advise. I'll check mine cause mine is the same way. I couldn't get out of 5th slowing down to a light yesterday. Had to stall it out & restart & then it was fine. Then couldn't get out of 2nd another time. I do hear squeaks & noise from the pedal when I step on it.
 






First thing to do is bleed the system. Even the smallest of air bubbles in the system will cause problems such as occasional disengagement difficulty. Be sure the brake fluid in the clutch reservoir is topped off correctly with the black stopper installed.

Otherwise if bleeding has no effect, it's usually the slave gone bad. Even brand new ones, especially cheap aftermarket replacements, can be bad out of the box and not give the movement needed to allow smooth, flawless disengagement 100% of the time.

If it turns out to be a cracked/flexing bracket or worn/busted bushings, you got lucky.

The only solution I have found thus far is to use only the correct Ford OE parts when replacing any part of the hydraulic system, master, slave, bearing, etc. I'm sure a good brand clutch with a quality pressure plate helps too.

Going aftermarket, or using "compatible" parts from other years of Explorers, or Ranger parts, despite them fitting, seems to affect the clutch operation quite negatively. The exception might be using newer years parts on an older system, such as the later 93-97 master/slave designs on a 91-92, or the 98-01 systems on a 93-97. Usually this requires replacement of the ENTIRE hydraulic system and clutch/bearing/plate assembly due to fit differences.
 






Sticky clutch update

I couldn't find anything wrong with anything in the clutch other than a slight bit of fretting on the splines. So I closed my eyes, resurfaced the FW, and put in a new Advance clutch ($ 140.00). Miracles do occur. It is smooth as an automatic, all vibration is gone, and all shifts are perfect.
 






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