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Codes for my 94 Explorer

BKennedy

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Okay, I ran the codes several times and this is what I got:

Self-Test, engine off, key on;

566 Shift Solenoid Circuit Failure KOEO O
629 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Failure C

332 EGR Circuit Below Minimum Voltage C/O/R
542 Fuel Pump Circuit Open–PCM To Motor Ground C/O
538 Invalid Cylinder Balance Test Due To Throttle Movement During Test R or Insuffieient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test (engine run self-test


Self-Test, engine on;

3 (6cyl)

332 EGR Circuit Below Minimum Voltage C/O/R
538 Invalid Cylinder Balance Test Due To Throttle Movement During Test R or Insuffieient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test (engine run self-test)
536 Brake On/Off Circuit Failure/Not Actuated During KOER C/R


After I cleared the memory, I got;

566
629

111 no codes found

I think the 566, 629 and 536 are all due to my Explorer having a GM 700R4 transmission that is not hooked into the computer. It also smells like its running a little rich. I hooked up a fuel pressure regulator and all pressures seem fine. Let it sit for ten minutes with no change.

So..........can you guys tell me what I need to fix to make these go away?

332 EGR Circuit Below Minimum Voltage C/O/R
542 Fuel Pump Circuit Open–PCM To Motor Ground C/O
538 Invalid Cylinder Balance Test Due To Throttle Movement During Test R or Insuffieient RPM change during Dynamic Response Test (engine run self-test)
 


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Tbars4

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BKennedy

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Thanks, I will keep you posted. I cleared the codes and need to drive it around to see if they come back. I need to get it smogged by next month for my registration. I guess I could clear it, then run over and get it smogged real quick before the light comes back on:D
 




BKennedy

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I spent the morning cleaning out all of the intake and EGR parts with carb cleaner. So far, no codes except the transmission. The DPFE was full of black stuff. I sprayed it out, but I think it needs to be replaced as its corroded and at least 14 years old.

While I was at it, I also did that throttle cable slack fix with zip-tie's. The throttle was only 1/2 open with the pedal depressed all the way before, now it opent to just before the stop. I found a easy way to do this fix. Stick the soft end of a screw driver into the intake to keep the throttle open, then put on the zip-tie's, leaving a little slack.
 




Maniak

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I spent the morning cleaning out all of the intake and EGR parts with carb cleaner. So far, no codes except the transmission. The DPFE was full of black stuff. I sprayed it out, but I think it needs to be replaced as its corroded and at least 14 years old.


For the trans codes, you can either wire in some resistors (IIRC, 33 ohm resistor are in the "good" range of the tcc and 3/4 solenoid) in place of the solenoids, or just wire in the solenoids and tape them to the harness. The computer just needs to see the correct impedence of them.

~Mark
 




Tbars4

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I guess I could clear it, then run over and get it smogged real quick before the light comes back on:D

...From my experience on doing this, be sure to do a tune up as I have found the vehicle runs a little rich after you clear the codes and it will be borderline for passing smog...:dunno:

...This also makes my X run at 8 mpg right after the disconnect compared to it's normal 14 mpg...This all improves after the computer has time to catch up on everything, about a tank and a half of gas...
 




BKennedy

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For the trans codes, you can either wire in some resistors (IIRC, 33 ohm resistor are in the "good" range of the tcc and 3/4 solenoid) in place of the solenoids, or just wire in the solenoids and tape them to the harness. The computer just needs to see the correct impedence of them.

~Mark
But does it hurt anything to just leave it alone? Those codes should not turn on the check engine light, right??

After cleaning out everything, replacing the Fuel pump relay, and running it for awhile, I reved it up to 4000rpm. It started surging and the CEL came back on. I ran the codes and got these continous memory codes with engine off;

157 MAF sensor signal voltage is too low (might be from all the carb cleaner I sprayed in there; will let it dry more then check it later)

332 again

Engine On, I got;
332 again

538 again

536 again (its because I have re-wired the brake light circut for the Evenbrake towing system)

The 542 code did not appear, which might mean I had a bad relay (I replaced it after reading all the attached threads, thanks T-Bars).

After reading all this, and looking up a EGR valve picture on-line, I realized I did not clean that out. I will get back to you guys after I clean it out.
I think what I should do is clean up the EGR valve, then take it wheelin' next weekend for the day, which would put at least 200 miles on it, bring it back and check the codes again. What you guys think??
 




Maniak

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The TCC and 3/4 solenoids don't throw a code. At least they aren't for me. I burned the resitors I put in years ago, and haven't put them back. Now I use those codes a a reference. I know when I pull my codes that if I don't see those codes that I must have goofed reading the codes.

~Mark
 




BKennedy

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I pulled the EGR valve and it looks fine. Not very dirty, but the gasket was stuck half on the valve and half on the intake manifold.
The DPFE sensor is real gunked up inside the tubes. I am just going to replace it and see what happens. Hopefully, it will get rid of the 332 code.
 




BKennedy

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...From my experience on doing this, be sure to do a tune up as I have found the vehicle runs a little rich after you clear the codes and it will be borderline for passing smog...:dunno:

...This also makes my X run at 8 mpg right after the disconnect compared to it's normal 14 mpg...This all improves after the computer has time to catch up on everything, about a tank and a half of gas...
Thanks.
I changed the plugs and plug wires last desert season. I think its had about 1200 miles on it since then.
I got to clean the air filter one more time.

Anybody had the same problem with the surge at higher RPM and shudder at lower RPM with a load (like going up one of those hills at Truckhaven)?
 




BKennedy

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Replaced the DPFE sensor, or as the auto parts store called it "EGR Valve Sensor" (I am still in sticker shock, $70.00 for something that looks like its made out of pot metal; must have some real expensive gizmos inside:p:). Let it run awhile and got..........................................
111 for the Continous Memore Codes............ NO 332!!!!

In the engine on mode, I got;

538 and 536 again, but NO 332!!!!
After I disconnected the code reader, I reved it up to over 4000 for about 20 seconds and it did not surge, shudder or activiate the CEL!

I think I am back in business.:thumbsup::D I am going to run the Cylinder Balance Test and see if I can get the 538 code to cease.
Thanks for helping. If not for this forum, I would have just spent a lot of money in labor for some schmoe to spend a few hours d*%king around.
 




Tbars4

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..:shifty_ey ...Shmoe here...Just be sure you and your new scissors are around when I need my pant legs cut...:p:
 




BKennedy

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..:shifty_ey ...Shmoe here...Just be sure you and your new scissors are around when I need my pant legs cut...:p:
Anytime, brother, anytime..............hopefully, never.
 




BKennedy

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Okay, on Saturday we went out and did this;

The Squeeze
DSCF2929_Small_.jpg

DSCF2932_Small_.jpg


And this;
Heart Attack Hill
DSCF2974_Small_.jpg


Its all part of the Pinyon Mountain trail in Borrego State Park

After about three hours of driving and a 30 minute lunch break, we were nearly to the highway at Split Mountain, when..........the friggin check engine light came on again.

I just ran the codes and got this (in both engine off and engine on modes);

327
(O,R,M)
EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE

According to my book, it means;
EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor, Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor or EGR Pressure Transducer (EPT) - signal voltage too low.

Since I already changed out the DPFE sensor, which I think is the EFR Valve Position sensor, any ideas on what I should change next?? The CEL comes on within a few minutes of starting now, and does not go away.
 




BKennedy

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On another note;

My buddy's J&^p nearly got wedged in the squeeze and his rear tires actually rode up on the sides of the rock. He has wheel spacers front and rear, so his rig is about 4 inches wider than mine. A vehicle with a full-width axle would have trouble fitting in there.

I made it through fine, but dinged my L/R door on a huge rock placed directly in the middle of the trail near the end. It looks like the park rangers put it there on purpose to keep people out of that end. My friend's J^&p went right around it, but he nearly went over backwards going up a ledge that I drove right up. I will take the longer wheel base with a dinged door anyday.
DSCF2999_Small_.jpg
 




Tbars4

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BKennedy

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Well, that mostly just confused the heck out of me. What I got out of those threads is that I should take back the aftermarket DPFE sensor and get one from Ford. This is partly because I did not have that code before I replaced it.
I will check with my brother (he works for Chevrolet, which is where I bought my new truck) but can get me parts wholesale through the dealer, for the new sensor. I am also disconnecting the battery for overnight and will check the codes tomorrow. If the CEL doesn't come on tommorow, I will run over and get it smogged.
 




Tbars4

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.. That thread also kind of tells you how to test the voltage...and yes, this part found at places like AZ often fail quickly...:(
 




BKennedy

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Today, got home from work and hooked the battery back up.
Let the engine run for awhile while watching for the CEL. It came on after about ten minutes.
Ran the codes and got 327 again in engine on and off modes.
Checked the voltage and everything seems fine.
Replaced new DPFE with old one. Cleared the codes and ran it again. No code until I revved the engine up to 4000, then CEL light and surging like it did before.
Ran codes and got 332 and 327, but only in engine on mode.
I have the new FORD DPFE ready to be picked up tomorrow. Started out at $154.00, got him down to $108.00. I did not know they haggled, but apparantly this guy was having a good day. I think I found a new best friend, a cool guy in the Ford parts department.:p:
I will let you know how it all goes.
I think, again that my habit of buying cheap has cost me a lot of time and aggravation. Note to self; When buying sensors, get the OEM stuff the first time.

So I have a question; Do the OBD II's just tell you what the problem is, or do they give you a guessing game like the older units?
 


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Tbars4

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...I hope this resolves your problem but I am concerned with you getting the 327 now when you put the old sensor in, and you never got it before..:(...Have you checked the wires and pins to see if they are seating properly in the connector?

..This thread might be worth a read too..
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234040

...The OBDII vehicles have a few more parts to read, a few more codes, and you get to see the codes as numbers with a code description with basically the same/similar definitions viewed on a handheld or computer screen but, you still have to hash thru and resolve them...
 




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