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Coil Spring Question

grihn

Member
Joined
February 24, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Leavenworth KS
Year, Model & Trim Level
'91 XLT
I've been looking around for about an hour but can't seem to find a definative answer for this, so forgive me if this has been asked a ton, but I am planning on installing new coil springs in my 91 Explorer (2wd) for a minor (2") lift.

http://www.carpartswholesale.com/v5...on=Front_Suspension&sc=Product+Listing+Page:2

I have read a lot about needing an alignment after the installation of either larger springs or spacers, which I expected, but I found a very detailed post of another person installing new springs and when he took his truck in for the alignment he was told he'd need new drop brackets? Can anyone confirm this, and if so, what are drop brackets (I assume radius arm drop?) and where can I get some.

This is what was said by the other member:

"Those springs were stiff.. I took it for an alignment and they said I needed drop brackets before they could align it. Dissappointed I drove home, with horrible camber."

He got the same springs as I'm planning on getting (or at least I believe he did from what I read).

I'd appreciate any help I can get. I'm just wanting to do a cheap lift (springs and shackles with new shocks) that's primarily for appearance (it's 2wd and my daily driver), so I need to make sure that I can get it re-aligned properly without spending thousands by the time it's all done.

Thank-you for any help you can provide.
 



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where the twin beams (axles the tires are on) meet in the middle of your truck is a pivot point.
called a pivot bracket which keeps the two beams tied to a central point to produce the up and down motion needed for the suspension.

when raising the truck on springs you need to lower this pivot point so the beams can work correctly.

I know Rancho makes them for their lifts but do not know if they sell them separately.
 






Why don't you just get a set of coil spacers to see if it works for you?
They are cheaper than getting a new set of springs and waiting for them to wear in.
 












Don't get those spacers. They will wear out and rip. Sometimes they last a year or two, sometimes a lot shorter: I had a friend destroy one in a few months. Go ahead and get new springs, they will ride much better. I suggest Skyjacker's 1.5" spring.

The reason the alignment shop "couldn't" align the truck you mentioned was because they didn't want to change out the camber bushings for a more extreme angle. As long as the stock camber bushings are changed out with a more extreme bushing aligning 2" of lift is easy. You can probably get by with a 3* bushing, NAPA sells a 4* bushing.
 






Well, that's one of the reasons I was wanting to get springs in the first place...because I was worried about sagging with spacers.

But I found these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bill...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

which look like they may take care of that issue. The reason I'm leaning more towards spacers now is because it'd be cheaper, quicker and easier that new coils, and remember I'm going for looks here, not off-road performance. However, even with that I still would be more comfortable with new springs (new springs on a 20+ year-old vehicle couldn't hurt anyway). I've looked at bushings but how do I know what to get? If it says for use with 2-3 degree positive change does that mean for use with 2-3 degree lift. Also, are they hard to install (i'm gonna search for how to install them here in a bit)?
 






If you want to use spacers get F-150 spring seats, they are metal, lift 1.5-2", and only cost $15 new each side.

Spacers won't be any quicker or easier then new spring, they both require the exact same amount of work.

Each truck is a little different, 2-3* bushings work for most trucks with a 2" lift. Some trucks will need the 4* bushings. I recommend getting the 4* bushing anyways, they cost about twice what normal bushings do ($30 each instead of $30 a set), but they are the only option that provides independent adjustment of caster and camber and the only option that is adjustable from 0-4* (So if you ever changed back to stock springs you wouldn't need to change the bushings again).

Installing the bushings is a bit of a pain, which is why most folks just let the alignment shop do it (for about an extra $100). But, I congratulate you on wanting to save your money and turn your own wrenches! You'll need to remove the wheels, hubs, brakes, tie rods, and spindles from each axle. They you pull out the axle shafts and knock the steering knuckles off. If the camber bushing is stuck in the axle arm you can use a pitman arm puller to remove it. Push the new bushing in and reassemble.
 






























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