Cold Air Intake for 5.0 Explorer

[Josh P]

How much more hp do you think the motor is making now? How much money have you invested in parts?

 

[mikebeastro]

How much more hp do you think the motor is making now? How much money have you invested in parts?

Hello Josh P.
So like I said before, this is NOT about big horsepower or racing or anything like that. It's about me building my dream truck with a decent amount of power, so it's capable of preforming offroad, towing and regular on road as I desire. Obviously about 300 horse power which I'm going for is not very impressive. But it's way better then a 3.0 v6!!! The donner truck, i have had nothing but trouble getting any power from that. So this is a huge win compared. This is custom and I built it, so it has sentimental value as well as being what I've always wanted.

Also I did get the muffler swapped out the other day, it sounds great now. Like a V8 should. As for cost of welding, only about 50 bucks. Buddy helped me out.

To answer your question, maybe about 15 or 20 horsepower between the intake and exhaust. Just a rough guess, could be more. As for cost. About 300 bucks but that is fine. It's not the end of the world. I'm more then happy with how the project is going. Intake was a bit of a pain, but not to bad. Have some faith guys, this forum is about helping others with these projects.

 

[Mbrooks420]

There’s no chance you picked up 20hp.

 

[410Fortune]

Yup the air must flow through the meter in the correct direction! We all make mistakes this one is just funny! Thanks for sharing

I recently modded a factory airbox to
Flow more air after deciding the aftermarket “airbox” or cold air kits for the 5.0 are over priced and still come with a crappy filter.
I added a second air horn to allow
More air in, simple effective.

Without some headers on that 5.0 you will never make more power you are only changing the sound and the throttle response. The factory exhaust manifolds are a huge bottleneck and they are choking the power you can make right now. If you truly want to make +25 Hp over the factory rated 215 you will need headers

Get 500 Horsepower from a Junkyard Ford Explorer 302

Upgraded Lunati camshaft and GT40 cylinder heads on Ford Explorer Mustang 5.0L 302 V-8 with nitrous makes 500 horsepower.

www.motortrend.com

 

[mikebeastro]

Yup the air must flow through the meter in the correct direction! We all make mistakes this one is just funny! Thanks for sharing

I recently modded a factory airbox to
Flow more air after deciding the aftermarket “airbox” or cold air kits for the 5.0 are over priced and still come with a crappy filter.
I added a second air horn to allow
More air in, simple effective.

Without some headers on that 5.0 you will never make more power you are only changing the sound and the throttle response. The factory exhaust manifolds are a huge bottleneck and they are choking the power you can make right now. If you truly want to make +25 Hp over the factory rated 215 you will need

Yup the air must flow through the meter in the correct direction! We all make mistakes this one is just funny! Thanks for sharing

I recently modded a factory airbox to
Flow more air after deciding the aftermarket “airbox” or cold air kits for the 5.0 are over priced and still come with a crappy filter.
I added a second air horn to allow
More air in, simple effective.

Without some headers on that 5.0 you will never make more power you are only changing the sound and the throttle response. The factory exhaust manifolds are a huge bottleneck and they are choking the power you can make right now. If you truly want to make +25 Hp over the factory rated 215 you will need headers

Get 500 Horsepower from a Junkyard Ford Explorer 302

Upgraded Lunati camshaft and GT40 cylinder heads on Ford Explorer Mustang 5.0L 302 V-8 with nitrous makes 500 horsepower.

www.motortrend.com

Yes 410fortune, one day I will buy the maximizer headers. It just sucks that this application there are very limited options for headers. Also your right Mbrooks420, there is no way it is 15 to 20 hp. Thats why I said, it's a rough guess. Lol

My pervious experience with Hondas, yes.
Header = maybe about 5 hp
Custom exhaust = maybe another 5
Cold air intake = again about 5
And cheap chip = about 25 or 30
This is on a 4 cylinder Honda and also depends on which parts. They all have different numbers. I had a 93 civic that got 52 mpg and with only those 3 upgrades, it was world of difference in power aswell. Just saying.
Those 3 upgrades gave it 10 more mpg and close to 40 hp. Which I would say is pretty good for about 300 bucks. No reprogramming, no tuning, just bolt on and drive. So same concept here, but I understand this is newer and has more computer b.s.. So it's gonna be slightly different. That's why I'm on this forum and sharing. Aswell as asking for help. Because you guys have already done similar to your explorers. Thanks again!

 

[CDW6212R]

The 302 exhaust manifolds are hell in stock form(terrible air flow), and the one aftermarket choice is hell to install(an equal length design(hell to install)). The Ranger has had other 302 manifold choices for V8 swaps, I would look into those, thus the Ranger frame etc, might be a far better platform.

The stock exhaust is a single exhaust, not dual. A dual exhaust has two complete paths for the two banks of exhaust flow, thus two mufflers and two tail pipes. The manifolds are the worst part of the system, but the back half is also very poor(air flow is poor(half the flow of two mufflers etc)). The cat pipes are fair, 2.25" is decent for stock or mild power, but the four cats are of course restrictive. Remove the rear two, leave the O2's where they are, and add a muffler and tail pipe, somehow have two of everything, that's dual(high flow).

The stock air cleaner(not intake) is fine for well over 300rwhp, all OEM air cleaners are already cold air designs. It's possible to make them larger, but it's not easy at all, and not needed until you get above 300-350hp. The stock 5.0 is rated at 210hp, dyno testing would likely be 200hp, You will not gain enough to be near 300hp with minor changes. The exhaust is terrible, the intake elbow is very restrictive, the base engine is about the same as a Cobra 302(240hp in a dual exhaust Mustang with a manual trans). The heads, cam, and intake manifold are a bit small, the other major limitations end up costing a good 40-50hp compared to a typical car with 302 and manual trans.

So figure on upgrading some expensive parts, the heads/intake/cam/exhaust, before possibly approaching 300hp. The tuning will be required, so I'd begin on the easiest external things. That's good to aim at the exhaust, body etc, then the suspension and brakes will need some help. Work your way up to the big stuff, and plan slowly for a realistic budget. Good luck,

 

[mikebeastro]

The 302 exhaust manifolds are hell in stock form(terrible air flow), and the one aftermarket choice is hell to install(an equal length design(hell to install)). The Ranger has had other 302 manifold choices for V8 swaps, I would look into those, thus the Ranger frame etc, might be a far better platform.

The stock exhaust is a single exhaust, not dual. A dual exhaust has two complete paths for the two banks of exhaust flow, thus two mufflers and two tail pipes. The manifolds are the worst part of the system, but the back half is also very poor(air flow is poor(half the flow of two mufflers etc)). The cat pipes are fair, 2.25" is decent for stock or mild power, but the four cats are of course restrictive. Remove the rear two, leave the O2's where they are, and add a muffler and tail pipe, somehow have two of everything, that's dual(high flow).

The stock air cleaner(not intake) is fine for well over 300rwhp, all OEM air cleaners are already cold air designs. It's possible to make them larger, but it's not easy at all, and not needed until you get above 300-350hp. The stock 5.0 is rated at 210hp, dyno testing would likely be 200hp, You will not gain enough to be near 300hp with minor changes. The exhaust is terrible, the intake elbow is very restrictive, the base engine is about the same as a Cobra 302(240hp in a dual exhaust Mustang with a manual trans). The heads, cam, and intake manifold are a bit small, the other major limitations end up costing a good 40-50hp compared to a typical car with 302 and manual trans.

So figure on upgrading some expensive parts, the heads/intake/cam/exhaust, before possibly approaching 300hp. The tuning will be required, so I'd begin on the easiest external things. That's good to aim at the exhaust, body etc, then the suspension and brakes will need some help. Work your way up to the big stuff, and plan slowly for a realistic budget. Good luck,

Thanks CDW6212R. I'm not concerned whether I'm no where close to 300. But I just want a bit more power then stock. So like you said, just doing some cheap external bolt on. I want to avoid doing ANY crazy internal stuff. That gets expensive and complicated. So like you said, this is my focus.
1. Exhaust
2. Intake
3. Chip or tuning
4. High performance tune up stuff.
5. Maybe eliminate the a/c since it leaks
6. Maybe underdrive pulleys
7. Gonna do the 4406 transfer case swap
8. Lower gears in axles
9. XR500 shocks
10. Maybe torsion twist and shackle lift. If I keep explorer frame.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. But my question is,

What is some other affordable bolt on stuff I can do to get a few more ponies? That may not ruin the gas mileage.

I want all stock internals, except I may do forged internals when motor gets rebuilt.

 

[CDW6212R]

The exhaust is in stock form end to end choking a good 30hp from reaching the tires. The automatic trans and front drive parts of a 4WD or AWD are another 25hp+ that you have to accept if you stay with that and don't go to 2WD and manual.

The engine won't be able to make a lot more horsepower than stock without improving the airflow in the heads, intake, and exhaust. That means better heads, intake, cam, and the exhaust is choking even more if you move to those better parts. The stock shift point is good for a 302, 5000rpm, which is much better than the 5.0 HO engines that start to run out of steam after 4500 rpm.

The sharp intake elbow is fine for the stock power level, but soon above stock when you shoot for 5500rpm or more, then it needs to be altered(remade bigger).

Long story short, there are things which can help a lot to gain power, but it means raising the rpm, thus the bigger heads/intake/cam. Plus increasing the compression, which is done during building, there you have to select better pistons with less dish size. You can spend about $600 on a nice Wiseco piston set and get to the 9.7:1 range, but that takes re-balancing, and new tuning. It has become much more expensive to build any engine, the 302 is among the less expensive still, but they aren't "cheap" any more.

 

[Blown]

Headers are you next best move..................................The engine will benefit only slightly from a tune or chip. Ford computers will compensate/self tune for mild power adders. The transmission shift points and pressure can be tuned for better performance.

 

[410Fortune]

The available ranger swap headers are typically only for rwd applications
Some conversion headers will work with ttb trucks (83-92 ranger 93-97 ranger) but 98-11 ranger has the same engine cradle and ifs as the explorer so header options are same as v8 explorer tmh, obx or “maximizer”

 

[mikebeastro]

Yes, Blown and 410Fortune.
I'm pretty sure I'm going with the Maximizer Headers. They were about 850 about 3 months ago. Now they are about 650, but sold out. When they get more, I'm grab them as soon as I can.

My current experience with the exhaust. I had stock exhaust on it, when I first put on the intake. But at that time, the MAFS was backwards and had mustang AITS on it. Even like that, it was HUGE difference in acceleration and power.

Then I put stock intake back on it. I cut exhaust off right before stock muffler. Then welded up Dual 2 1/2" Inlet, Single 3" Outlet Flowmaster "Flow Monster" 2 chamber muffler. The dual 2 1/2" was necked down to 2 1/4. The 3" was necked down to 2 1/2. I only did that because I already had that muffler. Just a dump pipe after muffler, because I haven't had custom 2 1/2 tailpipe made yet.

Anyways, now WITHOUT the Huge mustang intake on it. I'm waiting on one more part. I'm replacing one of the straight rubber tube connections with an 90° elbow. Then MAFS will be pointed right way and it will fit. I will post pics after intake done. So stock intake and flowmaster. It sounds good, but lost some back pressure. I think it's even slower then stock now.

But paired up with the Huge mustang intake, I hope it will be even better then before. I believe they will. That intake description on website, says 12 to 17 more horsepower. But that depends and everything it's paired with.
More air IN, More air OUT = More Power!

Also I checked this morning, it's a April of 97 make and it has the GT40 HEADS AND INTAKE. Which are slightly better then the gt40p. Because the bigger Exhaust valve, ports and bigger compression chamber.
I know for a fact the upper and lower intake manifolds are GT40. But honestly I can't see if it's 3 or 4 bar on the heads. There is a slight angle on the spark plugs, but not 100% on which it is. It currently has the 45° angle plug wires on it. Seems plenty of room to change plugs without removing exhaust manifolds. Technically it should be the GT40 heads. I got to replace the valve cover gaskets soon, so I'll find out for sure then.

Thanks everybody!

 

[CDW6212R]

Forget the words back pressure, that is always bad. Back pressure is the restriction of airflow, which is always bad, and reduces power, always. No engine needs back pressure, ever. The fuel is tuned to match the airflow, if you increase airflow in any way(reducing back pressure increases airflow), then it needs more fuel. If the tune, the programming in the PCM does not increase the fuel enough, then it will be leaner, thus less power(the problem there is a poor tune, it needs tuned better, the problem is not having too much airflow(reduced back pressure)).

So no matter what changes you make, don't test and judge without properly retuning the computer. The PCM does not compensate for all changes, they all try, and they all fail. Small changes are not noticed by the driver's butt dyno, but a real dyno would show the tune being changed, leaner or richer. Very small changes you can get away with short term, but don't condemn any parts without doing the tuning. That's why people think a large exhaust lowers bottom end power. It does not, the greater airflow needs more fuel, and if it doesn't get it by the PCM, the engine is running leaner, and thus lower power where it's running lean. The PCM is not magic, it's very good but it does not adjust perfectly for all airflow changes. That's why people try to make all the big changes, and then get it tuned to maximize the fuel and timing curves.

GT40 heads are identical to the GT40P heads in every way, except for the plug angle and chamber size. The P heads will make a hair more power due to the smaller chamber, thus higher compression. The difference is tiny, about 9.1:1 versus 9.0:1 compression. That is also why I keep suggesting raising the compression, which is free HP. The 4.0 SOHC has about 9.6:1 compression, so it makes better power for the size, and it runs on regular fuel.

 

[410Fortune]

April of 97 I bet you have gt40 for sure

Look at passenger exhaust manifold, is there an EGR tube? if not then you have gt40 heads
If there is a EGR feed tube (metal) off the passenger exhaust manifold then it is a gt40p

It was later in 97 when they made the switch
I had two 97's here last year both v8 built within three months of each other, one was gt40 with the round airbox and the other was gt40p
round airbox is also a dead give away, as is the shape of the intake elbow

 

[CDW6212R]

If the intake elbow is flat on top, that's a GT40 head engine.

 

[VWbaja10]

I made an intake for my 2000 Mountaineer with the adapter and a modified intake tube. I had filters and silicone boots already from past intakes. My motor has headers and is mildly built. Only thing I really noticed was a little better throttle response and Mpg’s went up a 0.2.

 

[Blown]

Ford has a great system which will compensate for mild exhaust, intake and some cam changes easily and do it well. There is nothing mentioned in this build that requires a tune.

 

[VWbaja10]

Ford has a great system which will compensate for mild exhaust, intake and some cam changes easily and do it well. There is nothing mentioned in this build that requires a tune.

I’ve wondered what mine would gain if it got a tune. The few people I’ve talked to didn’t have any answers if it’d be beneficial enough to have it done

 

[Josh P]

I’ve wondered what mine would gain if it got a tune. The few people I’ve talked to didn’t have any answers if it’d be beneficial enough to have it done

Probably 5-15 hp.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ford has a great system which will compensate for mild exhaust, intake and some cam changes easily and do it well. There is nothing mentioned in this build that requires a tune.

Countless people have installed bigger exhaust pieces and then reported losing torque, low end etc. Of course all of them were untested seat of pants opinions. But I don't discount their opinions at all, I do disbelieve that any power was lost, their tune in the computer was no longer adding enough fuel to achieve the proper air/fuel ratio. If they would commit the same time and money they spent on the changes, to also retuning the PCM, they would gain torque, power at all rpm's. It wouldn't be huge gains, but going upward is still much better than going down in power.

Almost nobody ever gets a tune for their Explorer, just the big guys doing the serious upgrades do it. I'm soon going to be hunting a Quarter Horse to do my tuning of my 98 project, after my Lincoln 347 swap and tuning. So I have a reason to get the software etc, to do more than one soon, this year I expect to be testing big exhaust parts on a stock 302. But it will be tuned to begin with, a base tune, then a base test, then modifications and repeat.

 

[Josh P]

Countless people have installed bigger exhaust pieces and then reported losing torque, low end etc. Of course all of them were untested seat of pants opinions. But I don't discount their opinions at all, I do disbelieve that any power was lost, their tune in the computer was no longer adding enough fuel to achieve the proper air/fuel ratio. If they would commit the same time and money they spent on the changes, to also retuning the PCM, they would gain torque, power at all rpm's. It wouldn't be huge gains, but going upward is still much better than going down in power.

Almost nobody ever gets a tune for their Explorer, just the big guys doing the serious upgrades do it. I'm soon going to be hunting a Quarter Horse to do my tuning of my 98 project, after my Lincoln 347 swap and tuning. So I have a reason to get the software etc, to do more than one soon, this year I expect to be testing big exhaust parts on a stock 302. But it will be tuned to begin with, a base tune, then a base test, then modifications and repeat.

Going from a restrictive manifold to long tube headers for example, you feel the power band shift up higher, what you no longer feel below the peak torque point, you feel above it.