Cold Air Intake for 5.0 Explorer

[mikebeastro]

This is stock setup. It's not smooth at all. But I'd do CAI regardless, it always helps. Both power and sometimes mpg.

 

[mikebeastro]

So let me catch up with everyone. I agree with everyone. I don't believe tune is necessary, it's a non tune intake for mustang. But on other hand mustang is not an explorer. Also I agree that anyone that has a few small mods or upgrades would benefit slightly from tuning perfectly. But at sametime, is 5 to 15 horsepower worth 200 to 600 dollars. Headers, YES. Tune probably not unless check engine light on and is necessary.

As for back pressure, I know there is a difference between full race vehicle and daily driver. Also back pressure does affect gas mileage, I may be wrong but I believe it does. I agree to much back pressure is BAD! At sametime if you want more power/ sound good and not destroy mpg. Then you want a little back pressure or gas mileage is shot.

This truck when it was all stock with 29 inch all treads, I got over 21 mpg! No joke.
Then I removed the running boards, because my brand new 31" mudders rubbed with wheel only turned halfway. Then gas mileage was shot! Only get about 16 now. Lol! But my 94 ranger with 3.0 v6 that I put endless number of upgrades on, only got 16 mpg on a good day with same tires. But with half the power, that thing could barely do 65 on flat ground. I think that truck needs a tune. But that's not gonna happen, cause I'm not wasting any more money on that 3.0. So here are some pics.

 

[CDW6212R]

The intake elbow we are referring to is the intake manifold elbow, the 90* part which is between the intake and the TB. The EGR is attached to the intake elbow, and as said, your intake elbow is not flat, the one I pictured is dead flat(you can set a drink on top of it).

Your air inlet pipe is curved and ribbed, made of rubber etc.

 

[Blown]

Bahhhh,.......The computer/EECV uses Mass Air Flow and Load to actively tune as you go down the road. As long as you are not adding more than approximately 15% more power, the EECV will compensate. Addition of 15% and over, you'll need larger injectors, maybe better fuel pump and a tune for sure.

If one does not reset the EECV which includes the fuel trims after making a modification the computer will take more time to compensate for the additional air. I suspect many do not know this or forget.

Regarding Exhaust:
"As the pulses move along, they generate an exhaust flow. If you have a restrictive exhaust system, it can generate back pressure that works against the positive flow of the exhaust gas that's trying to exit your vehicle. As Jason explains, a restrictive exhaust flow that builds up back pressure is only hurting the power your vehicle can deliver because it's not working efficiently.

However, a little back pressure is a good thing. In fact, it helps. The right size pipe is large enough to breathe well but small enough to create a high exhaust flow. Steps in the exhaust system also create negative pressure waves that travel back to the cylinder and help empty the cylinder of those gases."
There are many more articles if you search. Taken from here: Do vehicle exhaust systems need back pressure?.

Tuning
A Premium fuel tune might get you 10-15HP. Then add what other power adders you have. I think these Torque Monster Headers are worth 20-25HP.

A transmission tune, shift points and pressure can be done to help performance. The tranny shifts early, downshifts a bit late, and shifts so softly and nicely enough to make for additional clutch wear.

Look at the price of a device/tuner, then add the price of the tune if you don't DIY and then you see why most don't tune until required by adding more power than the stock tune can handle. Everyones budget is different as are priorities for their build. I wanted to learn about it enough to tune my projects and needed it with the first Blower purchase in 2002.

I am glad to help here but I am limited to the Tweecer, Tweecer software, Tweecer strategies and Tweecer tuning style. Seems the QuarterHorse is a bit easier/user friendly for DIY.

 

[mikebeastro]

Stock 97 explorer 5.0

 

[mikebeastro]

Removed running boards and put on 31 x10.50x15's

 

[CDW6212R]

So let me catch up with everyone. I agree with everyone. I don't believe tune is necessary, it's a non tune intake for mustang. But on other hand mustang is not an explorer. Also I agree that anyone that has a few small mods or upgrades would benefit slightly from tuning perfectly. But at sametime, is 5 to 15 horsepower worth 200 to 600 dollars. Headers, YES. Tune probably not unless check engine light on and is necessary.

As for back pressure, I know there is a difference between full race vehicle and daily driver. Also back pressure does affect gas mileage, I may be wrong but I believe it does. I agree to much back pressure is BAD! At sametime if you want more power/ sound good and not destroy mpg. Then you want a little back pressure or gas mileage is shot.

This truck when it was all stock with 29 inch all treads, I got over 21 mpg! No joke.
Then I removed the running boards, because my brand new 31" mudders rubbed with wheel only turned halfway. Then gas mileage was shot! Only get about 16 now. Lol! But my 94 ranger with 3.0 v6 that I put endless number of upgrades on, only got 16 mpg on a good day with same tires. But with half the power, that thing could barely do 65 on flat ground. I think that truck needs a tune. But that's not gonna happen, cause I'm not wasting any more money on that 3.0. So here are some pics.

There is the problem with the people on forums and social media, spreading incorrect assumptions, thus our debates or conflicts;

All back pressure is bad, 100%. It is not possible to reduce it to zero, basic laws of physics create back pressure due to the engine(air pump) forcing airflow through smaller pipes than the high pressure can get out instantly. Thus there is back pressure always, but any amount is not helpful for fuel economy, it never helps.

You cannot judge fuel economy effects by changing tire sizes, and their weights, and then applying that to the concept of airflow or back pressure. Those are not related. The stock Explorer(1991-2001) is made for 30" tires, the speedometer is calibrated for 30" tires, not 29's. So anything smaller than 30" is always reading faster than perfect on the speedometer. 31" off road tires are all very heavy compared to stock 29" tires the Explorer came with. So you are mixing errors with the smaller 29" tires(also light weight), and the heavy taller 31" tires. All of that mpg thought is ruined by those errors.

I did not suggest that a new tune is needed after changing a trivial item like the air cleaner. All of the aftermarket air cleaners(that are improperly called CAI), they provide very little extra power. If anyone would ever test them with a dyno(aftermarket cheats(manipulating test data(leaving out detail facts))), they would show negligible gains, likely always under 5hp. There are not many OEM air cleaners which do not flow well, or that don't provide cold air intake already. Proper testing would mean tune the vehicle before testing on a dyno, do the base dyno test, then change the air cleaner, and then retune the PCM again, and lastly dyno test it for true results. But nobody does that, the results are so very small that people would not believe them(facts get in the way).

 

[mikebeastro]

Thanks guys. I appreciate all the help and knowledge you have shared. I think I have listed everything previously that I want to do. I may do a bit more down the road, but probably after the cab swap or drive train swap. For now, I believe this will be fine. Since it's my only daily driver. Also in Wyoming, snows every other week. so I need a very versatile vehicle. I'm just trying to build truck that gets decent mileage on highway, that has decent power and torque to pull those 31's aswell as a small trailer. But also good offroad. So thats the reason for all of this. I already had that 94 ranger for 14 years and next year it will be a classic. So I'm do this build and try keep it as long as possible. Then I can just enjoy and maintain. Instead of endlessly modifying and upgrading.

 

[mikebeastro]

Thanks CDW6212R. I know more about all that now. Also this thread will help others in future. I'm always happy to learn and understand more about vehicles and how they work. Thanks

 

[Blown]

There is the problem with the people on forums and social media, spreading incorrect assumptions, thus our debates or conflicts;

All back pressure is bad, 100%. It is not possible to reduce it to zero, basic laws of physics create back pressure due to the engine(air pump) forcing airflow through smaller pipes than the high pressure can get out instantly. Thus there is back pressure always, but any amount is not helpful for fuel economy, it never helps.

Happy Valentines Day!

I disagree, my research and experience tells me backpressure does add torque at lower RPM which is not never bad in these heavy rigs! I used that torque in two prior supercharged builds and am using that torque now. I decided long ago I didn't want to completely redo the exhaust on my Bronco then F150, and now my X. I have used a Blow Low Strategy by keeping with a stock or RV cam which does not require higher revving components and larger exhaust. There is a big difference between what is generally run here and one who is camming for high-end horsepower. I agree that a higher revving cam will not get much of a torque gain at low RPM like a stock or RV cam will from a little back pressure. I like a nice flat torque curve for these heavy bricks.

We typically only spin these to a little over 5,000rpm, and operate down around 2,000rpm where you might want that extra torque to get moving. It's almost like Ford knew what they were doing and knew the difference between a heavy Explorer vs a Stang or Crown Vic.

 

[mikebeastro]

Happy Valentines Day everyone!

Lol, Blown. I didn't want to start any conflict, be everyone has the right of there opinions. But Someone in this case is right. Science is one solid answer, not 2. Everything from tires to air intake is a variable of horsepower, torque and even gas mileage.

Yes, CDW6212R. There is a difference between what fuel mileage the engine is producing and of what reaches the ground as the final outcome. With the small tires and big tires, the engine is producing the same energy at the same setup. But if you use pizza cutters on the highway, you will go further on a tank. Versus having big mudders, which use more energy to turn at the same setup. So yes, the engine has identical output either way. But it's like engine power vs wheel power. There 2 different things. Everything affects the wheel power even the weight of the wheel and tire. I know that, but the point is. I want decent mileage and power, but without having 29's on there that will get stuck in wet grass.

I will do a rebuild eventually, It has over 180,000 miles on it currently. I want to find another 5.0 motor and build that on the side, while I drive this one as is. I may do a bigger cam and other things that work together properly. But nothing crazy, just mild build with forged internals. Better springs, rocker rollers, roller lifters, stuff like that. So it's a bit better of a layout, but that is far from now. Like I said, shy of 300 hp. Thanks again everyone and hope you all have a great Valentines day.

 

[mikebeastro]

Big mudders, sorry. Predictatext thing

 

[Blown]

You didn't start anything. I have taken Don to task before. I can accept and respect a difference of opinion. I don't like bad information and could take my time to post a few hundred dyno pulls to show how low end torque changes with back pressure...........................However, There are arguments on both sides and I respect Don's knowledge. I think we are both correct, but when you put out a NEVER on backpressure, I call BS. I am convinced that a little back pressure is good for low end torque, but similar to degreeing a cam, it is not a huge effect but certainly notcieable.

 

[410Fortune]

91-97 explorer came with 235 75 15 which are 28.9” rolling diameter not 30”

Carry on!

 

[mikebeastro]

Very Respectful Blown! I like that.

410Fortune, yes. That's why I said 29".

My last part should be here today or tomorrow. Then I know, whether I'm done with this custom CAI (Cold Air Intake) system or not. Once installed, I will confirm on functionality and give a parts list with prices.

 

[mikebeastro]

Hey guys.
So you guys have really got me thinking about

FLASH AND PROGRAMMERS!

Other forums, talk about this. But this has turned into a all around cheap performance thread for 5.0 explorers. Anyways, they say that Jet and some other are a waste of time. They said to go with SuperChips, which is now SCT. So my question is.

Do you recommend the hand held flash for 400? Or just do it right and get the LiveWire Monitor with programmer and windshield mount. The whole setup for 600? So specifically what do you recommend or have got and loved?

A tune is good for almost ANY vehicle, besides like a priest or geo metro! Stock setup on most vehicles is only about 50 or 60% of there actual potential.

 

[Josh P]

A 5hp gain on the 3 cylinder geo metro would be a 10% increase.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

most of these engines are already in adecently high state of tune so i cant see an exhaust & instake picking up more than day 5-10hp rspecially without headers. the headers are by far the biggest choke on these, and heck id guess even without a muff youd gain good power especially in the midtange on these with tmh etc

i cant see tunes picking up too much on these since in my experience at least with sohcs most bolt on easy mods that arent a blower wont net you more than say 20 total hp gain, and idk i hear you lose some torque with all this, something about backpressure? havent taken physics yet so LOL its all gibblygock to me

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Hey guys.
So you guys have really got me thinking about

FLASH AND PROGRAMMERS!

Other forums, talk about this. But this has turned into a all around cheap performance thread for 5.0 explorers. Anyways, they say that Jet and some other are a waste of time. They said to go with SuperChips, which is now SCT. So my question is.

Do you recommend the hand held flash for 400? Or just do it right and get the LiveWire Monitor with programmer and windshield mount. The whole setup for 600? So specifically what do you recommend or have got and loved?

A tune is good for almost ANY vehicle, besides like a priest or geo metro! Stock setup on most vehicles is only about 50 or 60% of there actual potential.

id go with someone like bamachips etc since afauk whatever the handheld one is thats black with red buttons is what they send. it sint about the machine imo (since many of those double as obd readers etc) as much as its about the tuner. all of those come w/canned tunes, so its about finding s good tuner like doug who has experience with these to get max results. thats my tuning knowledge at least. so idk its of those which is less expensive imo. and the issue with JET afaik was the canned tunes already on there, not about the new tune file that is custom written. also all sct canned tunes are the same imo between models as long ss its for a 5.0 X they will be same canned file. so id save the $ and get the handheld with the red buttons black case (forgorg name) and get a custom tune from 5 star or bamachips, afaim doug is on here

 

[Fix4Dirt]

A 5hp gain on the 3 cylinder geo metro would be a 10% increase.

reminds me of this