Comp Cams XE264HR-14 Cam install in my 5.0 swapped 01 Ranger

Well guys been super busy and had parts to do this sitting around for awhile. Fortunately enough my timing cover gasket went from no leak to straight peeing in a 2 mile drive recently. Here is a few notes and parts I used, I'll add part numbers and update original post wen done...

-Comp Cams 35‑349‑8 Xtreme Energy Cam
-Alex's parts gt40p springs
-Alex's parts 6.305 extended pushrods (figured this out after cam was installed and stockers are WAY too short)

I already had a few supporting mods along with 1.6 roller rockers and roller timing chain setup on the truck when it was built. Put about 15k hard miles on her in 2 years and she sure needed a little cleaning.

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• boominXplorer
• September 14, 2016

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• boominXplorer
• September 14, 2016

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• boominXplorer
• September 14, 2016

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• boominXplorer
• September 14, 2016

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• boominXplorer
• September 14, 2016

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• boominXplorer
• September 14, 2016

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• boominXplorer
• September 14, 2016

 

[boominXplorer]

Truck is back running but like always when modifying things there is always a little snag. It runs great but it appears I need a little longer pushrods. I measured with the correct tool but should have done some research before jumping in. I also never thought of trying a few other cylinders before ordering.

After firing it up and letting it run I have a little ticking coming from the passenger side. It wasn't like that before and the only things that have changed is the cam and pushrods. Drivers side is quiet"er". After re-measuring I should have pushrods closer to 6.320. The drivers side is a bit tighter and could use 6.315. The variance is annoying to say the least. If I had adjustable rockers I could just adjust them and it would be just fine. I assume this is from getting the heads machined unevenly (don't use that shop anymore for other reasons but this adds another ) Then again if I had been a little closer with my measurements I probably wouldn't have any ticking as the lifter will make up a little difference (which its doing on the drivers side)

Now for my delimma, Alex's parts has 6.310 or 6.320 available. Do I go with the 6.320s and hope the drivers side can take the little extra preload? Do I mix and match? BTW the smallest shim I have is .020 for under the rocker arm.

 

[shucker1]

I would not do the mix match. Too easy to forget where you put them if you ever have to go back in there.

As for Preload?

I wouldn't say it's a preload issue, you just want the lifter to stay running in the center of travel. .010 doesn't sound like much but it's a long way for a lifter that has what .070 travel?

 

[CDW6212R]

If the pushrods you have in it now are 6.305", and it needs 6.320" on the high side, you are not far off now, 15 thou. I'd get the 6.32" pushrods, and if the variance needed is 5 thou, that should be as close as you should need, without adjustable rockers. Stock clearances will vary that much easily. The typical desired hydraulic lifter preload is around 0.035", so 0.015 less is a little loose.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

HA! because pulling the motor is for pussy's lol

 

[boominXplorer]

HA! because pulling the motor is for pussy's lol

Haha it was sooooo much easier. Even undercoated the body while it was up. Takes about 2 hours to pull the cab. Then another 3 hours to put back on. I could of had it done in 2 days but this whole custom pushrod thing slows the process down.

Pretty sure I'm going with the 6.320 push rods as of now. Its honestly not that bad with the 6.305s and I have put about 50 miles on it and the noise hasn't changed. An average Joe would call it good or chalk it up to the heavier springs added cam.

Still researching a way to add adjustable roller rockers on gt40p heads that cost less than a set of new AFR aluminum heads. Friggin things arnt cheap, machine work and a whole new gasket set make new heads seem more reasonable.

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree, the bolt on adjustable rockers are scary to use. The bolts are small and people run up the rpm's which flexes the little bolts. I have at least two of those kind somewhere. Those should only be used on stockish engines with stock rpm's.

The good rockers don't cost much more, but obviously machine work is required.

How was your under side to clean up at this age? I did my 93 and 99 about ten years ago, and it wasn't too bad, just tough to bend your head up for a long time.

 

[boominXplorer]

Yeah you can get a nice set of adjustable stud rockers for $400. Thing is if my heads are coming off then they aren't just getting drilled for studs. I'll end up porting them and want new valves while I'm at it. By the time I do all the work and spend another $4-500 on the heads I could justify brand new heads. I really want to keep the iron head for durability though as I beat hard on this truck.

While I had the body on the lift I scrubbed the underside and power washed it. Funny thing is I have NO rust under the body BUT the core support bottom corners, drivers rear cab corner and drivers back door all have cancer spots about 1.5" in diameter. I only took 1 pic when I was done. I always forget the pictures, hence the reason there almost no pics of the cam install.

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• boominXplorer
• September 18, 2016

 

[CDW6212R]

If the new cam isn't too out there high lift, the factory pedestal rockers are a great reliable system. The adjustable rockers have more possibilities for issues, most from poor set ups, geometry, the pushrods which you are concentrating on. You know all of this. I am wary about the GT40X heads I'm planning to use for my work truck. I'll spend more time with that geometry, checking it over and over, to make it right before starting the engine. But pulling the valve covers will be smart to do at times, we'll see how that goes.

I love a lift, I'm hoping to get my two main trucks up and seal up the bodies completely. I did most of my 93/99 before, and had just one rust spot at the seam to the left quarter panel(which was the 93 and replaced in 1999). I hope that spot will stay sealed or contained. I got my "new" 98 just for the solid body. I really liked the results of sealing it all up with the body in the air, way better than undercoating a vehicle by a shop.

 

[boominXplorer]

Yeah with adjustable rockers you still need close to the right pushrods to keep geometry in check. I know with the perfect pushrods I'll be good to go. I'm perfectly in the center of the valve tip now since I haven't added any shims and am only running a .512 lift cam. I even used a little gear marking compound to verify.

Here is a pic of my rockers. Had a fulcrum split on me hence the 1 gold crane rocker arm.

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• boominXplorer
• September 18, 2016

 

[boominXplorer]

Should have my 6.320 and 6.350 push rods tomorrow. They are the only 2 sizes you can order "off the shelf", anything in between is completely custom. I have been told by numerous people .045-.060 lifter preload is just fine to run so we will see. Lucky for me its a 3rd vehicle / play toy so I can be trial and error patient.

On a side note Alex from Alex's parts has been great . He answered my emails after hours and on weekends trying to help me through my push rod dilemma. I called up comp cams and asked them if anyone had to do such large pushrod changes and all they told me was go measure and run adjustable rockers, not much help from them. Sad thing is I found 2 places on line people have posted that comp cams told them to run at least a 6.300 pushrod with my exact cam.

 

[shucker1]

Please keep us posted.

As you already know with that .512 lift watch out for "Valve Spring Coil Bind"

 

[boominXplorer]

Please keep us posted.

As you already know with that .512 lift watch out for "Valve Spring Coil Bind"

At the correct installed height my springs are rated .550 lift. They are about 5 coils tall opposed to the oem ones at about 7. There is also the inner coil but I have no idea how to check that so I'm taking their word they are rated for it.

 

[shucker1]

I just like to double check the outside spring before I run the engine.

I roll it over by hand till I have full open and then see if I can get a .040 or better feeler gauge in between the compressed coils.

Rather not put it all together, crank it up and once it gets hot WHAP!

 

[CDW6212R]

Valve springs have specs which include coil bind heights. As part of installation, the specs are checked for that, as well as the cam design, which those should include desired coil bind clearance. Meaning the best performance is achieved when the compressed springs are closest to the cam's designed coil bind clearance, not just simply having enough to avoid coil bind. That's part of why some engines make more power given similar parts, setting up all of the cam and valvetrain specs are critical.

Example, if the valve spring coil bind is at say 1.2", and the cam designer wants best clearance at say .060", then you should set them up to be 1.26" tall when the valve is opened. So if the lift was say .550", then the installed height should be 1.81", which is more specific than just checking for some random clearance.

 

[shucker1]

Valve springs have specs which include coil bind heights. As part of installation, the specs are checked for that, as well as the cam design, which those should include desired coil bind clearance. Meaning the best performance is achieved when the compressed springs are closest to the cam's designed coil bind clearance, not just simply having enough to avoid coil bind. That's part of why some engines make more power given similar parts, setting up all of the cam and valvetrain specs are critical.

Example, if the valve spring coil bind is at say 1.2", and the cam designer wants best clearance at say .060", then you should set them up to be 1.26" tall when the valve is opened. So if the lift was say .550", then the installed height should be 1.81", which is more specific than just checking for some random clearance.

True and agreed.

However, the point I was trying to make was do not trust that the assembly was set up correctly to avoid failure.

Not knowing the full details of the build there was no way to place a specific number value on the require dimension. Therefore the previous suggestion.

 

[boominXplorer]

Valve springs have specs which include coil bind heights. As part of installation, the specs are checked for that, as well as the cam design, which those should include desired coil bind clearance. Meaning the best performance is achieved when the compressed springs are closest to the cam's designed coil bind clearance, not just simply having enough to avoid coil bind. That's part of why some engines make more power given similar parts, setting up all of the cam and valvetrain specs are critical.

Example, if the valve spring coil bind is at say 1.2", and the cam designer wants best clearance at say .060", then you should set them up to be 1.26" tall when the valve is opened. So if the lift was say .550", then the installed height should be 1.81", which is more specific than just checking for some random clearance.

Never thought about it like that, I was just worried about coil bind. I can't find any specs about the spring settings for the cam but here are the spring specs.

• 1.460" Outside Diameter
  
• Fits over factory stepped spring base
  
• 133 Lbs @ 1.740" Valve Closed Installed Height
  
• 298 Lbs @ .500" Lift
• 315 Lbs @ .550" Lift

 

[CDW6212R]

I figured you knew most of that, but it's rarely mentioned. On the SBFtech forum, that comes up sometimes when a thread discusses a cam install.

 

[VR4]

Mind giving driving impressions when you're done? Maybe take a video? I'm considering this one for my 2wd.

 

[boominXplorer]

20 miles in so far so good. Still have a very faint tick on the passenger side but haven't ruled out an exhaust leak I can't seem to tighten up at the collector.

The cam really woke the truck up now. Top end power compared to before is unreal. Low end grunt out the hole has definitely been reduced but power comes on instead of dropping off with rpms. Cruising in o/d is just like before. The idle in park at 700 rpms is worth it all haha

Ended up trying the 6.350 ones for curiosity and they were a touch long. The preload is still a tad weaker than I would like on the passenger side with the 6.320 but it's running good. Before with the 6.305s it would rattle on first startup everytime, as it does not do it with the 6.320s.