Cone Filter + Homemade Heat Shield w/ Diagram! | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Cone Filter + Homemade Heat Shield w/ Diagram!

That's what I'm in the process of doing. I originally went to a cone racing filter to increase my airflow. It is less restrictive than the stock filter. I could have accomplished the same thing with a "drop in" performance filter but I also planned eventually to switch to a 4 inch diameter inlet to match my Lightning 90mm MAF sensor future upgrade. The inlet to the stock box has a 1 3/4 inch diameter restrictor that can easily be popped out almost doubling the intake area but still less than the 55mm stock MAF sensor diameter. I'm adding two 1 3/4 inch diameter cold air inlets and eventually will incorporate an additional thermostatically controlled warm air inlet like was used on Generation 1. The upper section of my original air filter enclosure will be expanded to enclose a 4 inch Spectre cone air filter. I will insulate the two new cold air tubes (shop vacuum hose) to protect them from deterioriation due to engine heat.

By the way, since I switched to the cone filter my engine runs poorly from a cold start for several minutes even though I installed a new IAC valve. My theory is the reduced restriction increased the minimum airflow at idle beyond the idle limit richness for the PCM. I just purchased a wide band air/fuel ratio meter on eBay. When I get it installed I'll have real data to confirm or refute my suspicions.

try cleaning your MAF sensor first, a dirty MAF sensor can make it run rough, (even though i dont think the engine gets a reading from the MAF while it's still in "cold start" mode. if that doesnt do anything reset your computer by taking off the NEG battery terminal for a while and then putting it back on, when you restart your engine, the engine computer will "relearn" some of its basic operating parameters such as idle richness. it may not have ajusted itself to match your new filter yet.
 






try cleaning your MAF sensor first, a dirty MAF sensor can make it run rough, (even though i dont think the engine gets a reading from the MAF while it's still in "cold start" mode. if that doesnt do anything reset your computer by taking off the NEG battery terminal for a while and then putting it back on, when you restart your engine, the engine computer will "relearn" some of its basic operating parameters such as idle richness. it may not have ajusted itself to match your new filter yet.

I've reset the PCM a couple of times for various reasons. There was no cold start improvement. I'll clean the MAF just in case oil from the new racing air filter may have contaminated it. Since I haven't "swiss cheezed" my airbox yet I can still reconfigure to stock to see if the cold start problems are eliminated. If so, that would confirm my theory. I didn't know about the "cold start" mode. Thanks! That further supports my theory. I hope you're wrong that the PCM doesn't read the MAF output during "cold start". But that would explain why some air filter mods need a custom tune. It also would spoil my plan to use an amplifier to make my Lightning 90mm MAF look like my stock 55mm MAF at idle speed during "cold start".
 






That is very nice setup. Gotta do something like that soon since my Ex will be paid off in 2 months!!!
 






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