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Confused about cylinder head purchase

TexomaExplorer

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Joined
February 10, 2014
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Location
Texoma
City, State
Pottsboro, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Explorer 4.0 OHV
So I cracked my driver's side head on my 96' 4.0 OHV between the valves on number 4 (I guess that was my misfire all along). So I am searching to just buy a set of NEW heads, not reman or anything.

I believe the casting on mine is a 95tm ( I think that is the number I saw).
Searching around on rock, I find that ENGINETECH CH1033N fits my vehicle, with the description of:
Casting # 95TM,97TM

It also shows that the 95' - 2000 use the same CH1033N head.

Now searching around other stores, I'm finding descriptions saying:
  • 1990-1995 Ford Explorer
  • 1997-2006 Ford Explorer

I can also find places that have 1994,95,97 listed for their years.
What is it about the 96 that is making this such a challenge?

20180409_171044.jpg
 



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There used to be real aftermarket 95/97TM heads, but they disappeared a couple years back. The biggest issue you'll find is new heads called 95TM or 97TM, which originally came with oval exhaust ports, but these new ones have round (and smaller) ports of the 98TM design. I have yet to find a definitive answer as to how well the round ports will run on the older styled engines without opening them up. There's still rebuilt options for true 95/97TM forgings, but like you, I'd rather not have something that's already well on its way to cracking.

Additional reading on the differences and years they occurred, heads discussed about 2/3 down the page: Rebuilding The Ford 4.0L Pushrod V6 - Engine Builder Magazine
 






check king cyl heads they hove new 95 tm cyl head castings and complete heads.
roscoe
 






Kings has them at 350 each, rock at 303, city motor supply a 590
I found a place called ms pro's that require cores, pair for 400 complete.. they say new, but why cores? they say they are aftermarket... not sure if they are wanting cores returned.
j&c has a set of PROSTAR for 400 complete, no cores..

Anyone ever heard of PROSTAR?
 






Almost all aftermarket heads for 95 up will be the 98tm cast with the smaller round ports..these ports are called fast burn,they have increased velocity to help heat the cats up to be more efficient. .your not notice any difference in them compared to the true 95tm or 97tm in stock applications..

King or Clearwater seem to be the go to for heads..id suggest the flepro blue superduty head gaskets though and dont forget new head bolts..now also is the time to check your rocker tips for wear and do a good cleaning on the lower/upper manifolds as well as your injectors
 






Felpro complete gasket set and head bolts already on site. Will be getting all new rocker arms and push rods. The tips of the rocker arms (about 10 of them) are pitted up pretty bad. So going to replace all. Not even going to check push rods, just replacing them. Not too long ago, I did a complete upper/lower intake gasket replacement, had the injectors cleaned and tested (was chasing misfire on number 4, that was off/on). I regret not going ALL the way, but did a smoke test and did have a lower intake gasket leak. So I just went that far. No coolant in oil. I had low compression on number 4, but determined exhaust valve was stuck. Used mmo and it cleared up. I've been chasing this P304 for awhile now, and I guess I never wanted to accept the fate that the head may be the issue. I ran air into number 4 spark plug hole and it blew out of the radiator, so thats when I decided to just open the can of worms. 300k miles on this ol' girl and I have a love/hate relationship with it. In the mean time, I'm driving my freshly top end rebuilt honda accord. Man I feel like I'm riding on the ground. I hate it LOL!
 






Any difference in replacing with iron or aluminum heads?
 












there arent 4.0 aluminum heads? I thought these were I was looking at.. have to go check again
 












what are those 16 little metal rings located inside the head gasket for in this photo?

gasketset.jpg
 






Im going to guess they go in the valve cover gaskets to keep the bolt from being over tq,they also appear to be cork which means they will leak...id be careful buying cheap no name brand gaskets and bolts..going cheap on something so critical isnt best..also i thought you said
Felpro complete gasket set and head bolts already on site.
 






1000 miles later... misfire cylinder 4 again.... UGH
 












Have not checked compression yet. It was good after the new heads were installed. Last night I started hearing a clatter(like bad gas) and pulled codes and it was a 304... again.. Been going good for 1000 miles with these brand new heads.. and now.. again
 






Have not checked compression yet. It was good after the new heads were installed. Last night I started hearing a clatter(like bad gas) and pulled codes and it was a 304... again.. Been going good for 1000 miles with these brand new heads.. and now.. again
I wouldnt jump to it being the heads yet. .which heads did you buy??you do a master reset after putting heads on??
 






I bought the prostar heads 98tm heads. Master reset ?
 






I bought the prostar heads 98tm heads. Master reset ?


That code might just be a old code and you felt a new issue the other day that didnt throw a code..do you still hear or feel what you did the other day
 






I didnt do that. I did have the battery removed for a month or so. I also have bluetooth torque pro that I can check stats of the engine out with. For 1000 miles, no check engine lights or pendings. Until I started hearing this noise and read it had the 304. It rained all day the last 2 days. So have not been able to check compression. I'll see what its like today.
 



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I didnt do that. I did have the battery removed for a month or so. I also have bluetooth torque pro that I can check stats of the engine out with. For 1000 miles, no check engine lights or pendings. Until I started hearing this noise and read it had the 304. It rained all day the last 2 days. So have not been able to check compression. I'll see what its like today.
Aww well having battery removed should've cleared everything. .hmm keep us posted
 






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