confusing A4LD behavior!!!

[Gadget X]

Ok, I have been having "issues" with the transmission in my 94 explorer for a while, and have come to the conclusion that it's possessed! I just changed the fluid and filter replaced the governor, adjusted the bands, and re-torqued the valve body bolts, but the problems persist! Quick rundown on the problems: the transmission was rebuilt about 35 to 40 K back. It sometimes feels like it's trying to start out in 1st and a half gear. That's right, not second, but 1st and a half! If I drop the selector to manual 1st, no problems. Then on to manual 2nd. No problems, then at about 45mph, it shifts to 3rd. While still in manual 2nd! Ok........ then on to "D". Still in 3rd, then at about 55 or so, it feels like the torque converter locks up. I thought that was only supposed to happen in "OD"!? Also, as the torque converter is trying to lock up, it "shudders" real bad, and if I let off the gas most of the way, it "engages". If I am in "OD", it goes from 3rd to 4th, but sometimes does the "shudder" thing then, too. From 4th to torque converter lockup is just as it should be, smooth, with no shudder. I am at a loss! Anybody have a clue why this is happening? Sorry for the long post, just trying to be thorough! Thanks!

 

[BrooklynBay]

Do you have an adjustable modulator? Did you check the vacuum line going to the modulator for leaking transmission fluid? Did you adjust the kickdown cable?

 

[JK080]

There is a good chance that the 3-4 shift solenoid is faulty.

In D-4 position the 3-4 solenoid circuit is charged with oil, if the solenoid is bad it can allow the overdrive band to apply, this will give you a overdriven 1st gear which feels like 2nd gear or 1st 1/2. A quick test would be to select D-3, it should start off in normal 1st.

In the 5R55E the overdrive band is applied while in first gear to give it a shift into "2nd" gear, then its released and the intermediate band comes on for "3rd". This is how they can make the same gear train into a 5 speed. Confused yet?

I am not sure about the converter shudder but I would replace the 3-4 solenoid and see what difference it makes, it may cure that issue as well.

 

[Gadget X]

Forgot about those
I adjusted the kick down cable, and I did replace the modulator, too. It's not adjustable, and no difference from the one that was on it. I am really at a loss on this!

 

[BrooklynBay]

I know that you torqued the valve body bolts, but did you see if the gaskets were damaged? Bad gaskets might cause cross leakage into a different section of the valve body.

 

[Gadget X]

It all appeared "good" from what I could see. I'm definitely not a transmission expert! Is the 3/4 solenoid one of the 2 electronic "doodads" on the front passenger side of the valve body? I'm assuming the other one is the tcc solenoid? I actually have replacements for both of them! Do I need to drop the valve body in order to replace them?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Yes, you need to remove the valve body to replace these solenoids.

 

[Gadget X]

Ah, sounds like I'll be having some fun, then! Do I just need the valve body and low/reverse servo cover gaskets? Thanks for all the help. Also, almost forgot, would either of these solenoids cause 3rd gear to engage while the selector is in manual 2? Thanks again!

 

[BrooklynBay]

The solenoids only control overdrive & TCC lock up. You might need the small push in filter which goes into the valve body. There's a spring in the case for catching large particles, and the small push in filter in the valve body for smaller pieces.

 

[Gadget X]

Would those have anything to do with the "1st and a half" gear and the 3rd engaging while the selector is in 2 problems? Sorry for all the questions, just lost when it comes to how a slushbox works! Thanks!

 

[Gadget X]

Also, where are the spring and push in filter located, and where can I get replacements? Would they cause any of the issues that I've been having? And could the (piston?) that is operated by the shift linkage be out of whack somehow?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you check the Z link to see if it's bent or if the manual slide valve has a worn oblong shaped hole? The case spring is under the valve body in the lower part of the case. You don't have to replace it. It could be cleaned out. The small sock shaped push in filter is pressed into the valve body's separator plate, and is sold as a separate part. Check WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com.

 

[Gadget X]

ok, new issues now! after some more testing, I determined that reverse, 1-3 gear, and tcc were functioning normally, just had no 4th gear. I pulled the valve body and replaced the 3-4 and tcc solenoids. I also cleaned the governor, just to be safe! I didn't see anything out of the ordinary in the pan or in the vb. I did notice that there was no spring in the low/reverse servo when I pulled it. The servo was also a little difficult to get out of it's bore. I reassembled with new gaskets and new O-rings on the servo. Now, I still have no 4th gear, but I have also lost reverse!! When I put it in reverse, it feels like it tries to engage after 5 or so seconds, but it feels like its just barely grabbing. if I give it some gas (@2000 rpm) it tries to move, but only on level or downhill grade, and it feels like it is just slipping really bad. kind of at a loss as to what to do now, this is my DD, so it needs to be on the road! To date, I have replaced the modulator valve, governor, tcc and 3-4 shift solenoids, fluid and filter(twice) valve body gaskets, and low/reverse servo rings. HELP!!!!!!!

 

[Gadget X]

Oh well. I guess I'm the only idiot still laying under his truck in the driveway at midnight! I think I'm going to button it up and deal with it tomorrow.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The A4LD should have a low/reverse spring. Check to see if the band shifted when you reinstalled the servo. The band has to make contact with the servo. Did you reinstall the old gasket for the low/reverse servo? If so was it in good condition?

 

[Gadget X]

I did reuse the gasket, but it looked to be in pristine condition. The servo contacting the band properly occurred to me too, which is what prompted me to pull it again to check. It looked like it was in the correct position, and pressing on the piston yielded a stiff resistance at the top of travel. The servo did feel "stiff" in the bore, though. Should it move freely? It didn't to start with, and that was when reverse still worked. Also, do you know of anything that would still be causing my "no overdrive" condition? Do I need to be looking at a new valve body? Thanks for the help!

 

[Gadget X]

Also, there was no spring on the servo when I opened it, but I read somewhere on here that most of the time they were "deleted" during a rebuild. Would the spring help with reverse engagement, or does the spring hold it in 1st?

 

[Stenrick]

Also, there was no spring on the servo when I opened it, but I read somewhere on here that most of the time they were "deleted" during a rebuild. Would the spring help with reverse engagement, or does the spring hold it in 1st?

The spring would have helped to disengage the servo from the band.

 

[Gadget X]

That's what I was thinking. Oh well, don't guess that would cause the lack of reverse, then. I hate to do it, but I think I'm going to have to drive it as is for the rest of the week, and just make sure I park where I don't need to back up. I can probably get a "new" valve body Friday and put it in this weekend. What are the chances of messing up the transmission internals between now and then? It still drives fine 1-3 and tcc lockup, and I'll be putting about 150 or so miles on it between now and then. Thanks.

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could have Central Valve Bodies test your valve body.