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Confusion over wheel bearings 2002 ford explorer sport trac 2wd

joshuatbird

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Clearlake
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 explorer Sport trac
Hi 2002 ford explorer sport trac (2wd? Exact terminology would be helpful). Feels and sounds like bearing damage in the front left hub. Scary wobbly. metal on metal grinding noise while in motion. Confusion comes from trying to source wheel hub bearing assemblies... Does it not have hubs for the bearings? Everything I try to find says 4wd only. A link to the correct (name brand preferred) full bearing assembly would be extraordinary. I think my biggest problem in searching is phrasing the request.
 



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If you have the 2 Wheel Drive ( Rear Wheels are the driving wheels ONLY) S/T the front wheel bearings are a inner and outer TAPERED roller bearings. The bearings roll inside races which are secured within the hub/rotor assembly. The bearing are lubricated with grease and there is a grease seal on the inside of the hub that retains the grease. The bearings and races and seals are all replaceable.

Very old time technology but works very well. My pardons if you know this stuff already.

I wouldn't drive the S/T another foot if you suspect wheel bearing "issues".
 






If you have the 2 Wheel Drive ( Rear Wheels are the driving wheels ONLY) S/T the front wheel bearings are a inner and outer TAPERED roller bearings. The bearings roll inside races which are secured within the hub/rotor assembly. The bearing are lubricated with grease and there is a grease seal on the inside of the hub that retains the grease. The bearings and races and seals are all replaceable.

Very old time technology but works very well. My pardons if you know this stuff already.

I wouldn't drive the S/T another foot if you suspect wheel bearing "issues".
I'm in the same boat. Can't find the inner seal
 






If you have the 2 Wheel Drive ( Rear Wheels are the driving wheels ONLY) S/T the front wheel bearings are a inner and outer TAPERED roller bearings. The bearings roll inside races which are secured within the hub/rotor assembly. The bearing are lubricated with grease and there is a grease seal on the inside of the hub that retains the grease. The bearings and races and seals are all replaceable.

Very old time technology but works very well. My pardons if you know this stuff already.

I wouldn't drive the S/T another foot if you suspect wheel bearing "issue

I'm in the same boat. Can't find the inner seal
Thank you ptf18 for your response. Do you know where I can find the replacement parts? If there is a full replacement for the hub, bearings and all, that would be preferable. Also, a link to a video that goes into detail on how to do the repair would be extremely helpful. I spent hours on end digging after reading this but again seem to be gridlocked by google with the results for the 4x4 version of this truck.
 






A parts supplier I have used is ROCK AUTO. I just looked and they have the parts you would need. Once you get to the year/model of your S/T look under "BRAKE & WHEEL HUB". DONT purchase "inexpensive parts".

BUT....... the bearings and races ARE reusable/regreaseable IF.... IF...... the are in serviceable condition. The seals are throw away. You'll need top quality grease to "pack" the bearings.

You really need to get your S/T up and off the ground and then determain the source of the noise your hearing.

Do a YouTube search and you may find "instructions" on how to service these types of bearings. Its NOT a difficult "project" . BUT.....I would suggest that you get someone with previous experience to at the mininum assist you in this "project". Done incorrectly it can.... KILL YOU!!!
 






A parts supplier I have used is ROCK AUTO. I just looked and they have the parts you would need. Once you get to the year/model of your S/T look under "BRAKE & WHEEL HUB". DONT purchase "inexpensive parts".

BUT....... the bearings and races ARE reusable/regreaseable IF.... IF...... the are in serviceable condition. The seals are throw away. You'll need top quality grease to "pack" the bearings.

You really need to get your S/T up and off the ground and then determain the source of the noise your hearing.

Do a YouTube search and you may find "instructions" on how to service these types of bearings. Its NOT a difficult "project" . BUT.....I would suggest that you get someone with previous experience to at the mininum assist you in this "project". Done incorrectly it can.... KILL YOU!!!
Trying to get the full replacement parts for the front left and right. Before I make the purchase, please have a look at my cart here and see if there's anything I'm missing. I chose the most expensive options all around. Thanks!

Screenshot_20210308-133500_Chrome.jpg
 












HondaSlave1342. First off.. What S/T year and model do you have? Second.... why are you asking about the rear?
 






Joshuatbird.. You have the correct parts listed per Rock Auto. BUT....... you only need the NATIONAL seals ( the SKF seal is the same thing but is not described as being INNER). There is only one seal (INNER) on the 2WD front wheel hubs. ALSO...... you do not need the Dust Cap UNLESS you severely damage the caps during removal...which can happen.

You will also need (at least) 2 cotter keys which "safety" the spindle nut. These cotter keys are made in various sizes and I don't know what size you will need. Any local auto parts shop should have them and you will have to compare the one you remove to what the shop has in stock. Yo9u'll also need good quality WHEEL BEARING GREASE.

As of this time are you CERTAIN that your wheel bearings AND races require replacement?

Removing/installing the inner races from the hub can/may be "difficult" if you have never done them before.
 






Also is the rear the same setup?
What about the bearings
Sorry just seen them. I'm following because I'm doing the same job
HondaSlave1342. First off.. What S/T year and model do you have? Second.... why are you asking about the rear?
05 2wd. I'm just curious about rear set up. The front is my concern. The rotors are shot, lower ball joint one side, upper on other. It has 260,000 and falling apart. Just took it on a 5 state journey this past weekend and the rotors make the front shake so bad it tripped the enertia switch. Freaked my wife out. It's parked now until I figure how and what brand parts it needs. It also has a humm coming from the rear. With the back window down I can't really tell if it's the rear end. I did change the rear differential fluid with additive from ford. Engine is solid though. Just did vc gasket and simmons thermostat housing
 






Honda..... Here's my .02 worth. With 260k on your S/T and IF the Front End is OEM you have some work cut out. Not HARD but you have a "project" that is going to take some time depending on what your "skill" level is and what tools/equipment you have...on hand.

Again... here's my .02....... I'm NOT familiar with the '05 so........ take this with a grain a salt and double check on what I'm telling you..... at least when it comes to parts...... and MAYBE with the work.

First off. your '05 is 2 Wheel Drive....correct?????

IF so.... Per Rock Auto..... Your Bearings/Grease are the same as the '02 BUT!!!!!! if your front rotors are unserviceable then look at replacement rotors which are integral with the hub. The Motorcraft rotor/hub assemblies that I installed on my '02, several years ago CAME with the inner races "preinstalled". Your MOTORCRAFT rotor/hub assembly p/n should be....MOTORCRAFT BRRF66 and there are 2 new ones on Ebay for sale for $50 each.

BUT!!!!!! be certain of these p/n's. Check, check and recheck.

As for the ball joints... I "assume" your S/T has a torsion bar front end and NOT a coil spring front end ( I don't know if ANY of the S/T's featured coil springs)

I have used and been happy with the GREASEABLE MOOG parts. These are the USA made...more expensive than the China made parts that MOOG also sells. You will need 2 lower ball joints. The L/H and R/H upper control arm assemblies (because the OEM upper conrol arms ....IF.... they are still on your S/T do NOT have replaceable upper ball joints). 1 kit (has L/H and R/H parts) Alignment Caster / Camber Cam Bolt Kit
UNLESS these were previously installed.....these parts retain the upper control arms onto the frame.

I would replace the L/H and R/H outer tie rods (MOOG greaseable). In addition I would replace the Stabilizer Bar bushings (2 eq) and the Stabilizer Bar End Links. I'd also replace the Front Shocks (unless they are near new). I get lifetime replacement shocks and change them every 50 to 60k.....on the manufactures dime.

As for the brake caliper parts...... Pad wise I use the local auto parts dealers (O'reily) BEST...LIFETIME WARRENTY pads and replace them on their dime when and if they wear out. You need to inspect your calipers. with 260k on them you MIGHT consider replacing them as the internals wear.

Be sure to FLUSH the brake fluid system. I use Prestone Dot 3 and FLUSH my entire fluid system every 30k.

Anyways.... that's my .02..... Double check what I have told you... You'll also need to get the front end aligned.

AND..... before you get started clean out the undercarriage AND I mean USMC spotless clean! NOT take a garden hose and spray some water on everything clean.... I mean jack up the front end, get the wheels off and SCRUB the undercarriage and engine SPOTLESS.
 






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