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conical Intake

87xjmike

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
121
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City, State
Colfax, ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 exploder
So after searching around it seems only one company is making the Mas adapter to work with pre 95 ford 4.0's. What's the difference in the earlier models? Anybody know if something like the below ebay filter will work that's listed for the 95 and up models??

Im trying not to spend 90$ on the kkm set up as I have too many other projects and simply need the room for coilover hoops. Not trying to gain performance here which I know is never much with conical filteres.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/291454960571?nav=SEARCH

I have a 93 expo btw.

Thanks in advance for any help
 



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You're going to a coilover suspension on a first gen? I'd like to see that. As for the adapter, the ones for newer explorer will work. The MAF body in our 2000 looks very similar to the 94.
 






You're going to a coilover suspension on a first gen? I'd like to see that. As for the adapter, the ones for newer explorer will work. The MAF body in our 2000 looks very similar to the 94.

OK great I'll just order the one I posted then. Thanks.

And yes I'm building it into prerunner for my ford courier race truck.
tapatalk_1430276231303_zps1xmp7lfk.jpg


IMG_3214_zpsorraoqlq.jpg
 












If you're not going to have a hood or front clips then that's fine but most people that run those filters think they have cold air intakes, very few of them actually do. Most just suck in hot engine compartment air.

Anyway, off my soapbox, do post pics of your build, it will be very interesting to see :D
 






If you're not going to have a hood or front clips then that's fine but most people that run those filters think they have cold air intakes, very few of them actually do. Most just suck in hot engine compartment air.

Anyway, off my soapbox, do post pics of your build, it will be very interesting to see :D


While this is 100% true, the difference in power between a cold air intake and warm air intake is so little, I bet you wouldn't even notice on this engine. I took the one that came on my truck off just because the stock air box/paper filter filters dirt better than a K&N or other oiled filter.
 






Yeah I know, like I said I simply need room for shock hoops and a cross brace. It's tight in this engine comp., I have to relocate the battery, charcoal canister, and am hoping to be rid of this bulky abs crap Which should free up the real estate I need. I ordered that ebay set up I initially linked to it'll be here tomorrow so I'll post up if it worked. Cuz I hate it when peeps dont update when they get answers. ;)

Yeah Ill post a build here. It'll be a simple cheap build, cut/turn stock length beams with home brew arms and pivots, 97 f250 leafs, home brew Shackles and some decent shocks all around geared and locked.
 






Yeah, I did mine for the room, and I like the sound. I am a junky for more room. I think partly because I look at my brothers almost overly simplified '76 Camaro.

This is what you can expect unless you get a new intake tube as well. (And the mid '80's or whatever Ranger/bronco Non-A/C Blower box

0514151125_zpsoh1f03cm.jpg
 






Yeah, I did mine for the room, and I like the sound. I am a junky for more room. I think partly because I look at my brothers almost overly simplified '76 Camaro.

This is what you can expect unless you get a new intake tube as well. (And the mid '80's or whatever Ranger/bronco Non-A/C Blower box

0514151125_zpsoh1f03cm.jpg

Dear lord you have all kinds of room for activities. that looks real nice. Cept I plan to keep ac as this will be my dd and I'm in cali so I needs it. Do you still have the abs crap on the driver side? If I get rid of it and route the brake lines straight from the master to the calipers will my CEL stay ON?
 






I see, well, thanks man! I live in Oregon so i can handle no A/C for the most part, at the peak of summer it gets pretty bad, but whatever, I'll live. The A/C didn't work and I didn't want to take the time and money to convert it and everything.

Actually mine is a '92 so I only have the rear ABS, so the other side is pretty empty as well. Lol

0514151109a_zpsch7jj9rr.jpg


I'm pretty sure even on the '94 it also has a separate ABS module. So if you make new brake lines like you said, and disconnect the module, you shouldn't have any lights.

I have disconnected my RABS module because the light was always on and I haven't felt like taking the time to figure it out. I've had no problem without it.
 






On my 94, when I disconnected the ABS, the ABS light came on. I simply pulled the dash out a bit and stuck a screwdriver into the bulb.

I have the same setup as murkinstock. I got rid of AC and put a non AC blower box in.
 












Interesting... Are there two separate modules?

Nope, there's a relay. So if you disconnect, the relay turns on the ABS light. This way if power is lost at the ABS module you still get the light.

Just pull the relay.
 


















You're going to a coilover suspension on a first gen? I'd like to see that.

IMG_20131221_121526_804_Large_.jpg


I used a 99 intake to move it out of the way of the coil over shock hoops. I can post a picture of the engine compartment all back together tomorrow.
 






IMG_20131221_121526_804_Large_.jpg


I used a 99 intake to move it out of the way of the coil over shock hoops. I can post a picture of the engine compartment all back together tomorrow.


Yeah more pics would be great. Did you use a bushing in that cross brace? :eek:
 






[MENTION=284342]87xjmike[/MENTION] if you delete the ABS you will need to get a proportioning valve for the rears.

An adjustable will help get it just the way you like.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/6302...6dmINgVKeNpctDcnf6EmnCUaPR1ssqDeJ8hoCbwrw_wcB

Two lines out of the MC. Front MC line into a 3 way Tee, then the two lines to the front calipers. Rear MC line to the prop valve, then to the rear axle.


That prop valve is the kitties *******, thanks it's exactly what I need
 






[MENTION=284342]87xjmike[/MENTION] if you delete the ABS you will need to get a proportioning valve for the rears.

An adjustable will help get it just the way you like.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/6302...6dmINgVKeNpctDcnf6EmnCUaPR1ssqDeJ8hoCbwrw_wcB

Two lines out of the MC. Front MC line into a 3 way Tee, then the two lines to the front calipers. Rear MC line to the prop valve, then to the rear axle.

I understand from a safty aspect you should but nothing wrong with a 50/50 setup...many have just bypassed the rabs module and have not had issues. .ive done it on both my trucks, with disc break rear swaps and the front still will always lock up before the rear..personally i prefer a 50/50
 



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