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Coolant leak

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geoph1986

My radiator has decided to leak coolant where the upper transmission cooler line comes through the plastic tank. It's a constant slow leak. Has anyone else had this type of leak? I was thinking of trying to tighten the trans cooler retaining nut, but am afraid I will make the leak worse. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Lately the temperature outside has been -31 Celsius (-45 with windchill) and I don't want to replace the rad in this cold weather, and I don't have access to a shop.
 
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boggs1227

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you may be able to tighten it but i would be wary in cold conditions seeing how the cold could make the plastic even more brittle and break completlly .but worse case you may have to replace the radiator .

maybe you drain the system and take the rad out and take it inside and take the fitting off and get some jb weld and put it back together useing jb to help seal the area .plus inside the house the temps will be more better for wrenching and less likelly to break plastic temp wise.
 
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G

geoph1986

If I were to tighten it, it would be with the rad in the truck. I would run to operating temperature, then try to tighten (plastic shouldn't be too brittle then)...but I'm afraid it will leak more. Has anyone ever fixed this type of leak. It's sooooo cold I don't want to be outside any longer than I have to. When it warms up a bit I plan to replace the rad. I guess what I'm trying to say is I need a temporarily permanent band aid.

P.S.

I don't want to use stop leak or any other additive for stopping leaks.
 
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boggs1227

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k. still maybe jb weld could work
 
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boggs1227

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well jb takes time to set and dry but i would imagine that it would not be affected from coolant once it's set of course i'm guessing here but it says on the package that it can repair an engine block with a crack in it then i would think that it would not be affected by oil or coolant .of course jb can't fix everything .....it can fix most things with a good degree of fixing the problem but stuff like crankshaft seals or anything that of that nature then it's not so hot to use.

just remember to use alot of it because jb is strong when globbed up so to speak but when applied thin ...it's somewhat brittle.so maybe after you apply it to the nut / threads ...once every thing is tight then apply more around the nut onto the radiator kinda glueing the nut onto the plastic of the rad so to speak ....should make for a strong seal .
 
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boggs1227

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at last my modem and dsl is back up ( had problems with the filters so i was out of service all the remainder last night ) ...was i was going to add was jb takes time to set so let it do it's thing before starting the motor and building pressure in the radiator.


....dam dsl filters. . . . . . . . .:splat:
 
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G

geoph1986

Thanks for the lesson on jb weld. I've never actually used it, but have heard many people make reference to it for various applications. Does it come with instructions on how to make it bond to plastic? I'd imagine that the area would have to be roughed up, and clean. This does sound like an out of the vehicle repair. I guess if I'm going to pull the rad, I should just replace it.

My X has A/C (that doesn't work), and according to ADP Hollander the following rads will interchange:

EXPLORER 91-94 AT, w/AC
RANGER 90-91 6 cyl, AT, 2-1/8" thick
RANGER 92-93 6 cyl, AT, w/AC

Are there any other rads that will bolt in? Like from an Aerostar, or a second Gen X?

EDIT:
I was just thinking if I could find a copper/brass rad that would be great. Years ago I used to work in a radiator shop and I have done many re-cores. IMO they are way better quality than plastic/aluminum crimped together ones. Are there any vehicles that use copper/brass that would fit? I'd be fine with relocating the hose connections. How many rows of tubes would I need?
 
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boggs1227

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oh yeah ...if you can find a ALL metal one ...that would be the ticket.... any plastic one is weak by design....

for the removel to aplly jb.... if i were to do it i think i would take it out and lay it flat on the ground and then apply it so it wont seep down but you could let jb set up a bit before applying it ( so it's a little thicker)but the down side of that is it won't get into all the areas that need to be sealed good .

but also like you said if you got it out already ...just go ahead and swap it out .i actually have a newish rad from a 94 that i got from someone free off of craigslist but it's a non a/c model ( don't worry ...not trying to sell it to you) ....still not bad for free ,all i did was bend some fins back to their normal postions and flushed it out and flushed the transmission lines out ...about $158 new for that one at advance auto
 
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