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Coolant Leaking in Rear

PotatoExplorer

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Location
USA
City, State
Carlisle, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2008 Ford Explorer Ltd.
Oh my... I got to work this morning and upon exiting my vehicle I heard a loud hissing noise - almost like a tire with a puncture. I traced the sound back to the driver-side rear wheel well and I see coolant dripping out the very back side. This was also the source of the hissing noise, but I couldn't see where the sound or leak was coming from since it appeared to be up behind the plastic cover. I was running late so I couldn't exactly start digging into it but I did notice several metal lines running past that wheel well and almost to the rear bumper (like 3 lines if I recall correctly).

This can't be good??
 



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Oh my... I got to work this morning and upon exiting my vehicle I heard a loud hissing noise - almost like a tire with a puncture. I traced the sound back to the driver-side rear wheel well and I see coolant dripping out the very back side. This was also the source of the hissing noise, but I couldn't see where the sound or leak was coming from since it appeared to be up behind the plastic cover. I was running late so I couldn't exactly start digging into it but I did notice several metal lines running past that wheel well and almost to the rear bumper (like 3 lines if I recall correctly).

This can't be good??

Coolant feed to the rear heater core, metal lines to curved rubber to metal/rubber crimped feed up into rear the compartment heater core. If you’re lucky, it’s just the rubber ‘U’ hoses.

Very hard to find Ford pieces or $$$ if you do.

I went to auto stores, asked to go back to heater hose section, and looked through all the hanging pieces they had. Found two from who knows what original application that I could use. Cut off what I did not need and kept the ‘U’ section.

Worked perfectly. Wish I back-crossed the application to find what to ask for.

However, if it’s the metal/rubber crimped feed up into rear the compartment heater core, then that is a lot more of a problem.

Mine weren’t leaking, I was re-installing engine complement hoses to activate rear heater, so I checked out all the lines. The hose ‘U’s looked pretty worn out (but again, not leaking), but the metal/rubber crimped feed hose to the core looked in much better shape.
 






AGhhhh! I hope it's just a hose. I'm going to see if I can get a visual on lunch... I'll report back in shortly! Thanks Dora2007.
 






Ok so I went out and drove it a bit to see if I could definitely locate the leak. There was only some dribbles and the one hose that mainly had the coolant all over. I searched the hose but couldn't find any cracks and I also couldn't figure out why it was running down the back side of the plastic wheel well trim. I pushed the hose a bit and sure enough a very thin jet of coolant shot out from the top of the hose and was squirting onto the wheel well. So now I suppose I need to find maybe a new piece of rubber and clamps. I wonder if a simple steel screw strap thing will work or if I need an actual hose clamp.
 






Ok so I went out and drove it a bit to see if I could definitely locate the leak. There was only some dribbles and the one hose that mainly had the coolant all over. I searched the hose but couldn't find any cracks and I also couldn't figure out why it was running down the back side of the plastic wheel well trim. I pushed the hose a bit and sure enough a very thin jet of coolant shot out from the top of the hose and was squirting onto the wheel well. So now I suppose I need to find maybe a new piece of rubber and clamps. I wonder if a simple steel screw strap thing will work or if I need an actual hose clamp.


There are two rubber hoses with squeeze clamps. They go from the end of the under-chassis metal tube to the metal end of the crimped hose going into the body (eventually to the heater core).

Like this: ---metal---clamp-rubber-------rubber-clamp---metal

The rubber hose is in basic shape of U.

Is it the rubber U hose between metal chassis line and crimped hose going into the body?

If so, replace them (both). Pinhole now means more failure later. Band-Aid fix means bigger failure later.
 






Yes, it was spraying from the joint of one of the rubber U hoses. Here's a diagram (hopefully this works...)
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Do I need a special tool to remove the clamp? And will a standard stainless steel clamp work to replace?
 






Yes, it was spraying from the joint of one of the rubber U hoses. Here's a diagram (hopefully this works...)
Do I need a special tool to remove the clamp? And will a standard stainless steel clamp work to replace?

I can barely tell by your photo, mostly because the angle, but it appears that it’s leaking at the spring clamp at the junction to the under-chassis metal line.

Your clamps look as bad as mine did. When I tried to squeeze the clamps with pliers, they just broke away in a rusty mess. So, no special tool, just pliers or large needle nose pliers.

I fact, it may be a degraded clamp junction, not a hose problem. If you remove/break away the factory clamp and replace it with a worm clamp, that may be all that is needed. You can totally ‘unwind’ a worm clamp, wrap it around the hose, and re-engage and tighten. Bit of a pain to do that, though. But if you take the hose off, you’ll lose coolant and will introduce an air bubble. Unless you can do it REALLY FAST.

If it is the old hose, you'll need replacement hoses, worm clamps, and there is no way to avoid coolant loss. I vacuum filled, so I did not care. I don't know if catching the lost coolant and returning it to the radiator will eliminate the air bubble. An air bubble will cause lack of heat because air is not hot coolant and the air pocket get trapped.
 






Yeah sorry about the crummy angle. I was parked on the street and was trying to snap a picture in between zooming cars.

Yes, what you described is exactly where it's shooting out of. It appeared to be coming out of a pin hole sized leak from between the rubber hose and the metal tube. That back clamp is way more rusted the ones that are visible. So it could be possible that the deteriorating clamp is beginning to loosen up and allowing the coolant to squeeze past the hose/camp and the metal tube. I would like to eliminate a chance of an air bubble, but I guess I rather have an air bubble in the system than the continuous loss of coolant.

When I get home from work I'm going to pry the clamp off and visually inspect the end of the hose. If all is good with the hose then I'll just use one of those worm gear stainless steel clamps.

I'll report in with the results!
 






I’d say all clamps are rusted and on their last leg - one has really loosened. Both hoses are probably degraded as well, although yours is two years newer.

I’d remove the clamp, leave the hose alone, reclamp with worm gear clamp using the open-clamp slip over hose re-clamp method and get a good piece of rubber and reclamp. If that stops the leak now, you’ve bought some time.

Then, in warmer weather, you could obtain new hoses, clamps, and rebuild the whole thing. I’d NOT disconnect the hose now and risk an air bubble unless rear heat is not needed.

I went through all this because I was needing/fixing rear heat.
 






36753889350_1f7b47145c_b.jpg


Well sure enough as soon as I went to press the spring clamp tabs together, to slide it off the hose, it just split right in half. I tried cleaning off the hose as best as I could and tried to visually inspect and run my fingers around to see if there was any splitting. There was some pitting around where the clamp was on the hose and the hose did feel like it was on it's last leg. I bought a pack of those worm gear clamps at Lowes (under 1 inch max diameter - 15/16" I believe) and it worked perfectly. I just tightened it down until the worm gear started to give resistance and the rubber hose began to bulge around either side of the clamp. All during this, coolant was dribbling out of the unclamped hose end and was pouring all over the exhaust. Some of it is in my eye - wahoo! All in all, I lost about a half of a solo cups worth of coolant. I checked the coolant reservoir and it's still above the cold fill line.

I'm with you on doing this bandaid for now. I need more day light, and a Saturday afternoon to do this job. I'm going to drive it again tomorrow to see if any coolant starts spewing out.

When I do decide to do this in a month or two, how did you end up bleeding the air out of the system from the back end??
 






Drove to work, and no coolant was spewing out! Thanks Dora2007!!
 






When I do decide to do this in a month or two, how did you end up bleeding the air out of the system from the back end??

I vacuum filled with something like:

https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000...eywords=Radiator+Cooling+System+Vacuum+Refill

I admit I borrowed this from a mechanic friend. Best way to refill.

Some vehicles absolutely need to be vacuum refilled or air will be trapped in the high points. I don’t believe the Explorer HAS to be vacuum refilled, but it still is the best way.

Another tool is:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-...8292529&sr=8-2&keywords=lisle+radiator+funnel

This fits on the radiator cap and the funnel part gets filled with coolant. As the air bubbles to the top, the fluid in the funnel falls in, replacing air with coolant.

Even after I vacuum fill, I still use the Lisle funnel, front end jacked up to get the radiator cap as high as possible (air rises), and rev the engine a bit here and there to get more flow. I still get some bubbles.

When I first replaced the rear hoses, and therefore drained the entire rear core and lines, I did not get flow back to the core. Both hoses will still cold. I did ‘burp’ the line by cracking the output rubber hose and letting some coolant out (and hopefully the air ahead of it).

Still did not get good hot lines. I talked with the afore mentioned mechanic friend, and he said at idle, there may not be enough water pump pressure to flow coolant all the way through the rear core. So, I capped the radiator and when out for a drive, of course getting more RPM than idle. When I came back, I had heat and both lines were hot.

Used the Lisle funnel again until I got no bubbles.
 






Very good information! I wonder if I can just get by with using the Lisle funnel?? A $30 funnel isn't bad compared to a $130 tool!

You've been a tremendous amount of help Dora2007, thank you!!!:chug:
 






I wonder if I can just get by with using the Lisle funnel?? A $30 funnel isn't bad compared to a $130 tool!

I admit, I toyed with buying a vacuum tool, or one of the cheaper versions just for home driveway use. My mechanic, who does my big jobs I don’t want to get in to, did the unheard of and lent me his. Mechanics, in general, don’t lend tools.

Check the auto stores free tool rentals too. Can’t believe AutoZone, with all their tools, does not offer one.

So, since I borrowed it for free, that was the way to go.

I think the Lisle tool would work. Gotta get the radiator cap up high, and get some RPM to push through the coolant and get the air to travel to the high spot (radiator cap). Also squeeze the upper radiator hose to force the bubbles in to the Lisle funnel, and keep the Lisle funnel 1/2 filled with coolant.

It can be a challenge to get all the air out of that long run to the rear heater core.

There are several Youtube videos on using this or similar tools. I’d peruse them.

Glad to help, it’s just what you went through is nearly exactly what I went through. Although I did not have a leak, I’m sure it was pending. I changed the hoses for preventative maintenance, and the one clamp that just crumbled for you is the same one that crumbled the same way for me.
 






2009 Ford Explore EB Edition. I’m gonna start by fixing a worm clamp on just below the original clamp before I remove it. Hope it works!

7F05A81E-F32F-431F-9CCE-D01DB12A972A.png
 






So I have a coolant leak from a rubber hose that is behind my wheel going over and under my chassis body then up and under across to my rear heater core. What is this hose and what is the best way to replace it? It's the left hose and it's leaking right down from the clamp

VideoCapture_20220529-084252.jpg VideoCapture_20220529-084353.jpg
 






So I have a coolant leak from a rubber hose that is behind my wheel going over and under my chassis body then up and under across to my rear heater core. What is this hose and what is the best way to replace it? It's the left hose and it's leaking right down from the clamp

View attachment 429851 View attachment 429852
most likely you dont have to replace the hose over time rust will weaken the spring clamp and the hoses will start to leak. go get some stainless steel worm drive hose clamps and using a pair of pliers you will be able to break the rusted spring clamps on the leaky hose. once you have removed the broken spring clamps take your new worm drive hose clamp and undo it so you can get it around the hose, reassemble the hose clamp, tighten it and the leak should be fixed. the reason for stainless steel is you wont have to worry about it rusting again.

The hose clamp size is 1 1/16" size 10
 






most likely you dont have to replace the hose over time rust will weaken the spring clamp and the hoses will start to leak. go get some stainless steel worm drive hose clamps and using a pair of pliers you will be able to break the rusted spring clamps on the leaky hose. once you have removed the broken spring clamps take your new worm drive hose clamp and undo it so you can get it around the hose, reassemble the hose clamp, tighten it and the leak should be fixed. the reason for stainless steel is you wont have to worry about it rusting again.

The hose clamp size is 1 1/16" size 10
Saying it is leaking down from it my bad. Say behind because it's right before the clamp so it's a hole in it and can see coolant just gushing out the hole. Would I be bale to cut off up to that point or would it be more strain?
 






if the hose has a hole then you will need to replace it i dont know the part number for the hoses so i cant help you there.
 



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if the hose has a hole then you will need to replace it i dont know the part number for the hoses so i cant help you there.
Thinking of cutting back past it then add a connector and add in a piece to connect it back to the metal pipe
 






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