Coolant PH Level (7.2) Too Low?

[ozziejin]

I have a 2017 platinum currently at 20K miles. I recently checked the coolant PH level with a meter. It reads 7.2. Can'f find the normal coolant PH range of this OEM coolant (Motorcraft orange). Does anyone know if it's within the normal range? I know from high school chemistry class that 7.0 is neutral and 7.2 should be OK in terms of acidity level, but some internet articles say that mixed coolant usually starts at 8.4 and if it gets down to the lower 7 it's not good. Any suggestions? Thanks

 

[shucker1]

I would be more concerned about concentration of coolant for boil over or freeze protection before I worry about Ph level.

Unless you are running straight water through you engine, them I might worry about Ph.

 

[ozziejin]

I would be more concerned about concentration of coolant for boil over or freeze protection before I worry about Ph level.

Unless you are running straight water through you engine, them I might worry about Ph.

I did, with the Prestone thing, it is both above the boil over and below the freeze degrees

 

[shucker1]

If I'm not mistaken most coolants with change your Ph slightly due to the additives used.

 

[Mlarv5]

Don't worry about PH you should be more worried about how much current it is making. Yup your engine is a battery galvanic corrosion starts in the engine after it is built. The newer coolants coat the parts and stop a lot of rust from happening. (Simple way of saying what is really happening) You can use a volt meter ad read the coolen to negative on the battery and if it is over so many millivolts it is rusting and causing galvanic corrosion.

Check out this video to see what I am talking about.

 

[KayGee]

I have a 2017 platinum currently at 20K miles. I recently checked the coolant PH level with a meter. It reads 7.2. Can'f find the normal coolant PH range of this OEM coolant (Motorcraft orange). Does anyone know if it's within the normal range? I know from high school chemistry class that 7.0 is neutral and 7.2 should be OK in terms of acidity level, but some internet articles say that mixed coolant usually starts at 8.4 and if it gets down to the lower 7 it's not good. Any suggestions? Thanks

Old school coolant has a ph of ~10 and when mixed 50/50, the ph should end up around 8.5.

I believe most/all of the newer long life coolants start out with a PH in the mid 8s and when mixed 50/50 should end up in the mid to upper 7 range.

Personally, I'm not a fan of the long life coolants and still change mine around 3-4 years or 50-60K miles. Some believe long life fluid intervals are more a push by the EPA to reduce the need to dispose of, or recycle, waste fluids. Since most owners don't manage their vehicle maintenance like a well run fleet, I prefer earlier fluid changes rather than waiting over half a decade or longer and/or 100K-150K+ intervals.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto. Coolant can be checked by voltage or PH, but knowing what kind of antifreeze and additives is almost required to check it well that way.

I agree, change the coolant at regular intervals, not by the maximum possible mileage/age it could achieve. I use the better coolants, plus Water Weter, and change it before five years, sooner if I forget to write down the dates.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Don't worry about PH you should be more worried about how much current it is making. Yup your engine is a battery galvanic corrosion starts in the engine after it is built. The newer coolants coat the parts and stop a lot of rust from happening. (Simple way of saying what is really happening) You can use a volt meter ad read the coolen to negative on the battery and if it is over so many millivolts it is rusting and causing galvanic corrosion.

Check out this video to see what I am talking about.

Must add that trying to read milivolts without a GOOD meter, or one that has been calibrated in the recent past is a crapshoot. Don’t worry about pH? You are ONLY measuring the pH anyways and not the “current” the engine is making. Going from the expansion tank like he is to a ground stud likely has zero connection to the motor itself. You’d be far better off with a pH test. I’m certain it’d be more accurate, especially if using a cheesy Craftsman multimeter like he is. Also, not sure why he is using the “20” range when he is trying to read fractional volts.

 

[Mlarv5]

Must add that trying to read milivolts without a GOOD meter, or one that has been calibrated in the recent past is a crapshoot. Don’t worry about pH? You are ONLY measuring the pH anyways and not the “current” the engine is making. Going from the expansion tank like he is to a ground stud likely has zero connection to the motor itself. You’d be far better off with a pH test. I’m certain it’d be more accurate, especially if using a cheesy Craftsman multimeter like he is. Also, not sure why he is using the “20” range when he is trying to read fractional volts.

I didn’t watch the video just looked up one really quick to show what I was talking about. Was the video that bad? I am not so sure to many back yard mechanics have calibrated meters nor do many shops I bet. I have several including a Simpson 260 series 6.

Have a good one
Mike

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’m guessing zero backyard mechanics have calibrated meters unless they also happen to be in instrumentation. Even if you did have a certified meter you are ONLY measuring pH.