Coolant pouring into oil after head gasket change. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Coolant pouring into oil after head gasket change.

JReynaxd40

Member
Joined
October 18, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Colorado Springs, CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 XLT 4x4, 99 XLT 4x4
Yesterday I just finished replacing cylinder head, lower intake, fuel rail, upper intake, valve cover and exhaust manifold gaskets. Torqued all the cylinder head bolts and all other bolts for intakes and exhaust to the specs found in my Haynes manual. This morning I fire her up smokes a little figured it was anything leftover being burned off. took it for a short drive probably about 5 miles to get up to temp. get it back and engine is smoking and oil is contaminated.

Looked at radiator it was a 3/4 full and when i added more coolant and water it seemed to go straight into the engine oil. I see no oil in coolant just coolant in oil. Anybody have any ideas what this is. did i hook something up wrong? my block cracked? head cracked? looking for some insight.
 



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maybe intake gasket broke installed wrong i would pull intake back off
 






Double check where the lower intake is right above the water pump. When we rebuilt our 4.0 the water pump and lower intake were actually hitting. The lower intake wouldnt seal until i ground the intake a hair. I ground the intake insread of the water pump since i didnt know which was causing the issue since both were new to me.

~Mark
 






The head bolts are "torque to spec" Hopefully you didn't reuse them.
 






The head bolts are "torque to spec" Hopefully you didn't reuse them.

Was just thinking the same thing being there a one time use deal and you have to use new ones every time you lessen them or remove them. the other thought is the lower intake not sealed right from a gasket being bad or damaged or even forgetting to use the extra sealer on the four corners top and bottom of the gasket .
 






Installed brand new head bolts when I replaced the head gaskets. Also I see no external leaks just the coolant seeming to go to my oil. I'll let you all know what i find with the lower intake gasket. Thanks for the input!
 






The head bolts are "torque to spec" Hopefully you didn't reuse them.

torque to yield bolts. which means once torqued they stretch out, which is why they want new bolts.

torque to spec i really hope he torqued them to spec....
 






Well as it turns out the lower intake manifold gasket shifted during the install. Not only that but one of the head gaskets blew again. but hey you get what you pay for i got the cheapest set of gaskets i could find from some company in California and id say the only worthwhile gasket was the exhaust gaskets everything else seemed to be made of cardboard with a slice of aluminum foil in the middle basically. Fel-Pro this time. Anybody have any tips i should know for this?
 






I actually called the place that sent me the gaskets to see if i could get a replacement head gasket and they tried to tell me to use the bolts over again. I said no they cannot be because they are tty. they tried to bs me and i told them it was in the ford manual and to look it up. they were not happy.
 






Yeah, you'll be better off just getting the Felpro gaskets. When they start making bs exscuses that should pretty much tell you they were the wrong choice.
 






the ford head gasket is mls why would you go felpro, or am i missing something mls > all

as for headbolts, look at the size of them you think they stretched from that short period of time? hehe.
 






its sad when a company dose stuff like that and or will not stand behind what they have sold but then again more then once I have rebought stuff and never gone back to the first company again and made dang sure I spread the word about them also plus let them know it also.
To me it’s not only the replacement gaskets and bolts but it’s also all the time spent on the job. be it your own or if you paid some one its still time spent that is gone and your out with no recovery even if you did every thing right
Feel for ya brother
Fel pro or Motorcraft seems to becoming more and more the best and only way to go. Not the cheapest just the best.
 






the ford head gasket is mls why would you go felpro, or am i missing something mls > all

as for headbolts, look at the size of them you think they stretched from that short period of time? hehe.

Felpro sells mls gaskets.
 






There is a bit of a discussion about what’s better Fel-Pro or Motorcraft in intake gaskets. It comes down to the cork insert or the rubber inserts. Fel-Pro uses cork and Motorcraft uses the rubber. My self I would use the Motorcraft and I have had too many cork gasket dry out on me over the years.
 






The felpro set i got is two separate pieces for the lower intake. Now they want you to use rtb for the cork and rubber spot. Quite strange.
 






The felpro set i got is two separate pieces for the lower intake. Now they want you to use rtb for the cork and rubber spot. Quite strange.
See my thread about my intake gasket change. Its about 10 threads down. I brought this up. You just have to RTV the front and back rails as well. Make sure you have another tube, because I laid it on a bit too thick and had to run to the store to grab some more.
 












Mehedgec u have the link? So I put the bead of rtb down in front and back with the extra four dots in the corner. I also put a little where the cylinder head and lower intake meet for the valve cover spot since it had a small gap with this new gasket. Letting the bead set and then back to it. Anyway you can think of to check te seal before putting it all back together completely? Thought about pouring some distilled water through thr coolant passages on the lowet but that wont tell me if the china walls are sealed.
 






Mehedgec u have the link? So I put the bead of rtb down in front and back with the extra four dots in the corner. I also put a little where the cylinder head and lower intake meet for the valve cover spot since it had a small gap with this new gasket. Letting the bead set and then back to it. Anyway you can think of to check te seal before putting it all back together completely? Thought about pouring some distilled water through thr coolant passages on the lowet but that wont tell me if the china walls are sealed.
You're supposed to leave the system dry for 24hrs or so for it to cure. But you have to get it bolted back together pretty quick because it begins to set within 15-30 minutes I think.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=298469
 



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yea lettin it sit for 24 hours is the lame part. I was debating putting the valve covers and all that back on but I decided just to leave it and see if it holds the water right. Then i'll finish her up.
 






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