I have a 2000 exp and the hood has several deep bird dookie stains( previous owner). It looks like it has cracked all the way through the paint. The good news is that it is only localized to the hood. The rest of the paint is relatively good looking and I wanted to know how much it would cost just to paint the hood. The cars color is black.
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cost for painting just the hood?
- Thread starter falcaraz
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Monmix might contribute well here - but yeah I wouldn't expect it to be but so cheap. Somewhere around what unclemeat said.
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newc5188
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I am also needing a rough quote like this for the hood, but also for the roof as well. Sorry to hijack your thread for a second but I figured when MONMIX comes along and gives you an answer he could answer mine at the same time.
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Ummmmmm,
I'll ask the office manager tomorrow.
I just fix them, I dont price them.
$500.00 sounds like it would be to the high side. I am thinking between two and three.
The good news is there are no hood squirters to remove.
ANd black does not need to be blended for color match. Any other color would. That would pull the paint into the fenders which would neccisatate dertiming both fenders which, obviously would add to the cost.
I'll ask the office manager tomorrow.
I just fix them, I dont price them.
$500.00 sounds like it would be to the high side. I am thinking between two and three.
The good news is there are no hood squirters to remove.
ANd black does not need to be blended for color match. Any other color would. That would pull the paint into the fenders which would neccisatate dertiming both fenders which, obviously would add to the cost.
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The hood would need to be washed well, and degreased then scuffed with probably 800-1000 grit . Any rock chips need filling? Oh and...black ain't JUST black..... and you MAY have minor appearance deficits... but if your paint is good will be ok. They will run thru a minor amount of paint (5-8 oz of color and maybe 7-10 oz of clear depending on the number of coats. The color they may have to order. (FORD uses about 4 different "black" colors... or used to). Clear they ought to have in quantity if they paint a lot of cars.
prep? Maybe 1 hour to 1.5. Painting, (mixing shooting cleanup) 1 to 1.5 hours. materials... maybe $100 to 150. Will they flatsand and buff it? I will assume not. $75 shop rate my guess will come in between $300 to 500. Be curious to see what Monmix comes up with. Bet is close to a range between $350 to 425. Flatsanding and buffing the clear might add $75 to 100 to the price.
(I know.. hard to imagine black isn't just BLACK. It ain't.)
prep? Maybe 1 hour to 1.5. Painting, (mixing shooting cleanup) 1 to 1.5 hours. materials... maybe $100 to 150. Will they flatsand and buff it? I will assume not. $75 shop rate my guess will come in between $300 to 500. Be curious to see what Monmix comes up with. Bet is close to a range between $350 to 425. Flatsanding and buffing the clear might add $75 to 100 to the price.
(I know.. hard to imagine black isn't just BLACK. It ain't.)
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Yeah Glaicer brought up points that did not cross my mind.
Stone chips. Filling them in is usually not included.
Yeah, according to our manager, think $350.00 ish for a non blended paint job, and about $500.00 to $600.00 if the paint nees to be blended into the fenders. Explorer hoods are not too big nor too small, so it very well could be considered a refernace point many other hoods.
Good job Galicer. See, I told you you knew your stuff.
Stone chips. Filling them in is usually not included.
Yeah, according to our manager, think $350.00 ish for a non blended paint job, and about $500.00 to $600.00 if the paint nees to be blended into the fenders. Explorer hoods are not too big nor too small, so it very well could be considered a refernace point many other hoods.
Good job Galicer. See, I told you you knew your stuff.
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Wow thats really expensive prices, around where im from 100-200 closer to 100, and thats for a quality job
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Our shop guarntees for life.
It costs to be done right.
Always remember what your momma taught you.
" You get what you pay for. "
It costs to be done right.
Always remember what your momma taught you.
" You get what you pay for. "
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That was why I posted anticipated times to prep, and also shoot and cleanup...I a will admit those might be on the high side for time estimates, but I bet within the ball park. I just cannot see anything less than two hours shop time, no way no how. A "quality" paint job means quality prep and quality paint. It really is as simple as that. A quality base coat/clear coat paint (materials only) will cost right around $100... unless they had some left over in exactly your color (yeahsureright) so the shop that can sell you a "quality" $100 paint job for your hood must be working for free.
Now a cheap paint shot onto a hastily prepped surface looks ok... for a while. But it isn't "quality".
Now a cheap paint shot onto a hastily prepped surface looks ok... for a while. But it isn't "quality".
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Monmix, when you repaint the hood, do you sandblast all of the original paint off, or do you just add a coat of primer, then a few coats of paint, with a coat, or 2 of clearcoat on top of the original paint? Which paint do you usually use, laquer, urethane or enamel?
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I realize your question is directed to Monmix, but I'll try and give you a "pre-reply" reply.
First off the best primer is factory paint. So unless it is totally bad for some reason there is no reason to try and clean it all off.... plus the cost of doing so is high. So to answer number one, no - no sandblasting.
What you will want to do it to sand down to a stable useable substrate paint...
Now, in the old days you often shot a coat of sealer to prevent the interaction between the old paint and the new. With factory urethanes these days, that is not so important.... but... if you DO fill rock chips, you will want to prime over the filler.
Laquer paint is all but a thing of the past. Enamels have evolved into urethane enamels, and decent single stage (eg. one coat) paint is now mostly all urethane enamel. Basecoat/clear coat is a different animal....
Base/clear has a base that you apply and allow to dry into a certain "time window"... at which time you need to top coat with the clear. They chemically bond to form a single layer if it all works correctly. The base dries matte.... the gloss all comes from the clear.
Urethanes are expensive...and the ultimate price is dependent on color as much as anything.... plus there is the cost of the clear.
In base/clear, you usually shoot base to get good coverage, and then add at least 2 coats of clear. I like to do a fog coat followed by two full coats of clear.
In metallic, I have done a clear coat, followed by a mix of clear mixed with the metallic and then followed by a clear. I expected great depth. Eh. Probably not worth the risk of playing chemist. Paint today is all about chemistry. (Which is why in the 60-70's a car looked like shjt after about 6 years and today a 10 year old paint job looks so good)
First off the best primer is factory paint. So unless it is totally bad for some reason there is no reason to try and clean it all off.... plus the cost of doing so is high. So to answer number one, no - no sandblasting.
What you will want to do it to sand down to a stable useable substrate paint...
Now, in the old days you often shot a coat of sealer to prevent the interaction between the old paint and the new. With factory urethanes these days, that is not so important.... but... if you DO fill rock chips, you will want to prime over the filler.
Laquer paint is all but a thing of the past. Enamels have evolved into urethane enamels, and decent single stage (eg. one coat) paint is now mostly all urethane enamel. Basecoat/clear coat is a different animal....
Base/clear has a base that you apply and allow to dry into a certain "time window"... at which time you need to top coat with the clear. They chemically bond to form a single layer if it all works correctly. The base dries matte.... the gloss all comes from the clear.
Urethanes are expensive...and the ultimate price is dependent on color as much as anything.... plus there is the cost of the clear.
In base/clear, you usually shoot base to get good coverage, and then add at least 2 coats of clear. I like to do a fog coat followed by two full coats of clear.
In metallic, I have done a clear coat, followed by a mix of clear mixed with the metallic and then followed by a clear. I expected great depth. Eh. Probably not worth the risk of playing chemist. Paint today is all about chemistry. (Which is why in the 60-70's a car looked like shjt after about 6 years and today a 10 year old paint job looks so good)
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Newc5188: Your hood and roof has good news and bad news. The good news is that the paint costs will not be appreciably higher. Economies of scale. The bad news is that the rack and roof strips need to come off, all of them, and they use special rivets and take man hours to remove and replace. Monmix can address that process. I am going to have him walk me through it here very soon when I reshoot my 92 Explorer (Black).
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Thanks for answering my post Glacier. I didn't know that you were also an expert on body repairs as well as transmissions! I see a lot of the Lincolns, and Grand Marquis from the 80's, and early 90's with paint that looks like it is "washed out". It looks like it's in patches of undercoat, and top coat. The old Mercedes for some reason still look like show room quality from the 70's, (unless they were restored). In the area I live in, few people still have old cars (except for a few other neighbors with classic cars, and myself with 3 old vans). It seems that everybody here gets new stuff every 2-3 years. I was just wondering if the modern way of painting in the factory is HVLP, or completely airless like some new paint sprayers.
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Will you do a "How to paint diary"?Glacier991 said:
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If there is interest I will consider it.
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sounds about right Galicer. As I said many times before, I do body work / collision repair. We have other people at the shop who do the prep and paint work.
Normally when we get a hood refinish job, all I get to do is fill the stone chips and dings and what not. Plus what ever detrim is nesssicariy. In the case of Ford Explorers there is none on black hoods. Colors that require blends I would remove the wheel flares, antenna bezzel and antenna, and the side marker lights and the grille.
Normally when we get a hood refinish job, all I get to do is fill the stone chips and dings and what not. Plus what ever detrim is nesssicariy. In the case of Ford Explorers there is none on black hoods. Colors that require blends I would remove the wheel flares, antenna bezzel and antenna, and the side marker lights and the grille.
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BrooklynBay said:
As Detroit transitioned into base/clear in the 80's and 90's.... they andthe paint manufacturers were learning. I tend to also believe they were trying to see how they could reduce cost in paint and may have requested some formulations that were lacking in essential long life ingredients as well, but that is speculation. Every manufacturer, FORD, Chrylser and GM has had paint problems.... delamination being chief amongst them. Have they grown past them? I dunno.
If you have never seen a video of a Detroit car being painted by robotic arms, it is something you should see. I have no idea how the paint is actually applied... in their setting they could probably do it any way they want and meet all EPA guidelines through containment.
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