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Cps installation problem not covered anywhere

87xjmike

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
121
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24
City, State
Colfax, ca
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 exploder
93 expo 5spd manual 4x4:
I have a new sensor from ford dealer with the updated pigtail, installed the pigtail and am getting alternating voltage from 0-14.5v when I rotate the drive gear so my wire configuration should be good.


Problem: my sensor did not come with the alignment tool or a transparent window. In my Chilton manual it says on pre 96's to Align the sensor vein with the mark on the sensor window, and firther dial in the drive grar position with voltage position.
Well my new sensor does not have a transparent window, it has what looks like an electonic window screen on the top of the sensor, but even with power going to it, it does not show me the location of the rotating vein.
On the post 96 section it chilton said to align with the tool so it points 60* from the engine centerline, install and go.
So do I need the alignment tool? If so do I follow the 60* from centerline per the newer sensor guidlines?

Thanks in advance for any support.

Really wish this site was on tapatalk so I can upload pics.
 



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You can "time" it using your volt/ohm meter.

give this a read. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=275008

Same procedure as an old school distributor.

With the engine set at the correct timing position (see chilton manual) you turn the body of the CPS until the voltage falls off. This is the correct position, then tighten the lock without bumping it....

And yes you are reading that correctly it is 26* AFTER top dead center. NOT before TDC
 






Ok thanks, so install it when the sensor installed falls into between 0-1volts?
 






So I dropped the cps in right as it dropped from the battery voltage to .18 which is as low as it would go. and my motor sounds like it has a wicked valve on piston contact after the install. Guess I did it wrong and have to do it all over again. Fml. I suspect its 180* off and is firing at opposite orders. I had it at 26*atdc so perhaps I need to rotate the cps vein 180.
 






It has to be fully into the block, THEN rotated till the voltage falls off and tightened in place.
 






Yeah that's what I did, is it possible to get the same drop with the cps 180* off?

Btw for anybody reading I found it was much easier to deal with the cps bolt through the passenger wheel well with the tire removed. My exp is lifted with the plastic wheel skirts removed.
 






Are these non Interference motors?
 


















Well I got it running good. No more CEL so I can finally smog it. I did in fact have the cps vein 180* off.

And for anyone curious I didn't have to take anything off in the engine compartment this go around. Left the upper intake on, hood on, even the spark plug wires in place and plugged in... Going through the passenger wheel well with the tire removed I had it at 26*atdc and cps out in 20 minutes. Also was able to install it through there. That is most definitely the way to get to it.
 






Good job!

Way to sus it out...:thumbsup:
 






Good job!

Way to sus it out...:thumbsup:

Thanks fellla for the help! One other thing I should mention is the wicked rod knock I had right when I fired my motor up. I've never heard it from my motor. Accept for the initial fire up after this cps job.

Does anyone know if this is a result of the ecu re-learning the timing sequences thus causing the motor to run rough? It gradually got quieter as i let it idle and dissapeard after a minute or two of idling. My oil pressure was normal.

Out of fear of a fouled oil filter I instantly changed my oil after maybe only 4 minutes of idling. Now after every start up it sounds perfectly quiet again, just as it did before the cps job upon every cold start. Coming from 4.0 jeeps and 22re yotas I've always been impressed on how quiet the valvetrain in these ohv 4.0s are.

We picked up a 96 5.0 awd expo this week for the misses to dd in. I suspect it needs a new cps as well. it should go much faster now, especially seeing that they're on the front of the motor in the 5.0s.
 






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