*FIXED Crank no start after replacing crankshaft pulley. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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*FIXED Crank no start after replacing crankshaft pulley.

Nadams01

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 29, 2019
Messages
135
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83
City, State
Castle rock, Colorado
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 explorer eddie bauer
Hey guys I just did my front main seal which means you pull the harmonic ballancer. Got the ballancer off replaced the seal and aligned the balancer and cranked it on. I did remove most of the front end so I could get a impact on the puller and installer. I put everything back together except having coolant or a maf and I went to turn it over to make sure it ran. It came to life then sputtered and died, exactly what you expect of a disconnected MAF. I pulled the t case to replace the gasket and re installed it. Filled up my fluids and now it wont start. Fuel pump is activating and was replaced 3 weeks ago with the inertia switch. Did a spark test and it does have spark. I warranted the CPS just in case and that didnt change it. I have new IAC 02 sensor MAF and tps and ran with those sensors before I pulled the t case. I tested the ICM and got all the voltage and ohm readings expected of Haynes Manuel expect the CPS which read 700 ohms which I heard was common online. I'm about to test ohm on the ignition coil to double check how strong my spark is. Anybody got any clue? Thanks
 



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Hey guys I just did my front main seal which means you pull the harmonic ballancer. Got the ballancer off replaced the seal and aligned the balancer and cranked it on. I did remove most of the front end so I could get a impact on the puller and installer. I put everything back together except having coolant or a maf and I went to turn it over to make sure it ran. It came to life then sputtered and died, exactly what you expect of a disconnected MAF. I pulled the t case to replace the gasket and re installed it. Filled up my fluids and now it wont start. Fuel pump is activating and was replaced 3 weeks ago with the inertia switch. Did a spark test and it does have spark. I warranted the CPS just in case and that didnt change it. I have new IAC 02 sensor MAF and tps and ran with those sensors before I pulled the t case. I tested the ICM and got all the voltage and ohm readings expected of Haynes Manuel expect the CPS which read 700 ohms which I heard was common online. I'm about to test ohm on the ignition coil to double check how strong my spark is. Anybody got any clue? Thanks
Update I replaced ICM due to no other timing sensor backing out and no change
 






Update I replaced ICM due to no other timing sensor backing out and no change
Another update I checked for fuel pressure, sitting at 40 psi, also used a automotive stethescope to listen to the injectors which were firing. I have spark and fuel and both objects for timing are correct? I dont understand
 






Crank position sensor?
 












Ok, just guessing now. If you have fuel and spark, then something is out of time. Is there something about the crankshaft damper shifted during re installation?
 






You have not mentioned Check-Engine light?
After your first phase of work, it sputtered and died. Is it still doing that?
My mind keeps going to a bad ground because of the where you were working and what you would have had to do, but it doesn't really fit your observations...
I wonder what would happen if you gave it a little starter fluid and tried to start it.
You have checked all the fuses and relays?
 






Ok, just guessing now. If you have fuel and spark, then something is out of time. Is there something about the crankshaft damper shifted during re installation?
I'm not sure as far as I'm aware it is centered due to it starting with the new crank
 






You have not mentioned Check-Engine light?
After your first phase of work, it sputtered and died. Is it still doing that?
My mind keeps going to a bad ground because of the where you were working and what you would have had to do, but it doesn't really fit your observations...
I wonder what would happen if you gave it a little starter fluid and tried to start it.
You have checked all the fuses and relays?
Yes it had a CEl because I had to maf plugged it. 40 psi of fuel and spark. The cps was replaced again just to double check I will post what the readings are in a hour. I will shoot some fuel down her throat and see what happens
 






Yes it had a CEl because I had to maf plugged it. 40 psi of fuel and spark. The cps was replaced again just to double check I will post what the readings are in a hour. I will shoot some fuel down her throat and see what happens
More checking. I had 1300 OHMS on the CPS and it was between .3 and 1.3 AC volts. I completed the check on the ignition controll module and had correct conections and voltage. Was I sold a bad chinese part?
 






Update I replaced ICM due to no other timing sensor backing out and no change
Update I pulled the pulley off once again, turns out i did have the key miss aligned. the key that came with the dorman pulley would not fit correcty, so i fabricated my own key after many attempts and aligned it correctly. Went to go start it and nothing again.
 






The crank sensor triggers off the groves in the body of the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. There is one position without a groove, this is the indexing position. Please check this in relation to the keyway in the balancer compared to the old balancer. This will rule out a defective or wrong balancer that you installed. Dorman parts are not always the greatest.
 






The crank sensor triggers off the groves in the body of the crank pulley/harmonic balancer. There is one position without a groove, this is the indexing position. Please check this in relation to the keyway in the balancer compared to the old balancer. This will rule out a defective or wrong balancer that you installed. Dorman parts are not always the greatest.
Exactly what happend. I worked at a part store for half a year and dorman parts were never the highest quality and finding correct parts for my 91 is hard. Dorman 594-111 I believe was quoted for saying works on ohv or sohc 91 to 01. Turns out the slot for the woodruff key was half a inch clockwise then the oe. Went to a local salvage yard pulled a balancer off a 92 and it matched my oe balancer that was bad. Runs like a champ. If you have a 91 or possibly first gen do not order that part.
 






Thank you for responding back with such good news. If you can get this marked Fixed it would help others.
 






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