Cranks but no start.

[hondaguy1995]

I have a 2000 Explorer with the 4.0 OHV. It has sat for the last two years and now I need it again. I bought a new battery but cannot get it to start will only crank. I listened for the fuel pump but I dont hear it come on. Tried banging on it with mallet underneath but it would not wake up... Any thought on how to get her started again would be greatly appreciated as winter approaches and I need my truck back on the road. I bought a new fuel pump but before I start a job that is difficult for my level of experience, would like to know if I should start somewhere else first before just throwing a new fuel pump at it because I have read it is a lot of work dropping the tank. Any help appreciated!!

 

[imp]

I have a 2000 Explorer with the 4.0 OHV. It has sat for the last two years and now I need it again. I bought a new battery but cannot get it to start will only crank. I listened for the fuel pump but I dont hear it come on. Tried banging on it with mallet underneath but it would not wake up... Any thought on how to get her started again would be greatly appreciated as winter approaches and I need my truck back on the road. I bought a new fuel pump but before I start a job that is difficult for my level of experience, would like to know if I should start somewhere else first before just throwing a new fuel pump at it because I have read it is a lot of work dropping the tank. Any help appreciated!!

Look at the basics: Crank, no start........IGNITION: Is there spark? FUEL: Check for spurt of fuel at Fuel Rail Schrader Valve after cranking. If dry, no fuel to injectors. Then figure out IF pump is running. If it is not, check Inertial Safety Switch, reset if tripped. If not tripped, check fuses: PCM Power Relay powers up computer, injectors and fuel pump. Relay has it's own fuse, is it good?

If all this checks out, find out if power is getting to the pump: Check voltage at pump connection at fuel tank when pump should be running: NO POWER? Check pump fuse, wiring to pump. Final resort, power up pump by connecting 12 volt source at tank connection to pump: pump does not run, replace pump.

Also possible, but remote: Ignition switch faulty, not powering PCM Power Relay in "ON" and "START" positions.

 

[fast_dave]

@hondaguy1995

Forum member @imp gave you a great checklist - follow it!

What stands out to me is that you wrote "It has sat for the last two years."

That's never good for a vehicle that is used to be driven - when you stop 'em and park 'em - strange stuff happens.

Since you have a new battery, stick your head out the driver's side window when it's quiet outside, and you SHOULD be able to hear the "whirr" of your fuel pump when you cycle the key to the on position (the last clockwise position before start).

If you aren't hearing that - start with the internal safety switch on the TOP RIGHT of the carpet of passenger side footwell (@imp remembered that detail - I always forget about that damn switch)! Many have reported it "trip" for no explicable reason - so make sure you check this as suggested.

PIC of the switch BELOW

Move onto the Fuel Pump Relay in the under hood fuse box.
Pull it, look for brown or blue color on it's contacts.
Those two colors indicate a relay that's had a LOT of power pass through it in 20+ years of use.
Try swapping it around with another relay in the box that's the same size.
If I remember correctly - I was able to use the rear windshield wiper relay, which should be next to new.
I also believe the A/C relay is the same size.

After that - if you still have no luck - follow imp's well-written list!

Welcome & HTH!

 

[hondaguy1995]

@hondaguy1995

Forum member @imp gave you a great checklist - follow it!

What stands out to me is that you wrote "It has sat for the last two years."

That's never good for a vehicle that is used to be driven - when you stop 'em and park 'em - strange stuff happens.

Since you have a new battery, stick your head out the driver's side window when it's quiet outside, and you SHOULD be able to hear the "whirr" of your fuel pump when you cycle the key to the on position (the last clockwise position before start).

If you aren't hearing that - start with the internal safety switch on the TOP RIGHT of the carpet of passenger side footwell (@imp remembered that detail - I always forget about that damn switch)! Many have reported it "trip" for no explicable reason - so make sure you check this as suggested.

PIC of the switch BELOW

View attachment 321953

Move onto the Fuel Pump Relay in the under hood fuse box.
Pull it, look for brown or blue color on it's contacts.
Those two colors indicate a relay that's had a LOT of power pass through it in 20+ years of use.
Try swapping it around with another relay in the box that's the same size.
If I remember correctly - I was able to use the rear windshield wiper relay, which should be next to new.
I also believe the A/C relay is the same size.

After that - if you still have no luck - follow imp's well-written list!

Welcome & HTH!

Thank you so much for the reply and the picture! definitely will be checking out these things this coming weekend for sure. Ill post back! thank you man!

 

[hondaguy1995]

Look at the basics: Crank, no start........IGNITION: Is there spark? FUEL: Check for spurt of fuel at Fuel Rail Schrader Valve after cranking. If dry, no fuel to injectors. Then figure out IF pump is running. If it is not, check Inertial Safety Switch, reset if tripped. If not tripped, check fuses: PCM Power Relay powers up computer, injectors and fuel pump. Relay has it's own fuse, is it good?

If all this checks out, find out if power is getting to the pump: Check voltage at pump connection at fuel tank when pump should be running: NO POWER? Check pump fuse, wiring to pump. Final resort, power up pump by connecting 12 volt source at tank connection to pump: pump does not run, replace pump.

Also possible, but remote: Ignition switch faulty, not powering PCM Power Relay in "ON" and "START" positions.

Thank you for replying and providing me with this list of troubleshooting steps! i rerally appreciate the time you spent to help me out. Im going to have a good look this coming weekend and reply back with how it goes. I am not the most technically inclined but i will follow the steps you have outlined. Anyway thanks again i really appreciate the info!!

 

[fast_dave]

Thank you so much for the reply and the picture! definitely will be checking out these things this coming weekend for sure. Ill post back! thank you man!

No prob - all credit goes to @imp for 1st bringing it up, I always forget about it.

Regarding Switch Location: More than likely you will have to peel back the carpet on the upper right hand side of the passenger side footwell to see the switch.

Welcome to the forum and don't hesitate to ask questions (or close the loop with us).

 

[hondaguy1995]

Gentleman! this morning i was able to try some of these steps. I looked at the switch on the passenger floor with the red plunger. It is in the all the way down position. I checked the fuses with a fuse diagram and none of the fuses or relays appear broken however the #5 50A ignition switch starter relay is a little cloudy on the tabs... Could this mean it wont work because i thought that they were good unless the connection is visibly broken? after checking the fuel pump #9 20A fuse it appears unbroken but slightly clouded on the connectors. The fuel pump relay looked good on all of its prongs. So i connected the battery and cranked a bit. I think this time i heard the fuel pump come on when i turned the key however after a few cranks it would not start. so i followed the path and cracked the fuel schrader valve after cranking and it appeared bone dry. Puzzling because i heard a buzz i was not hearing befotre as if the pump did come on however no fuel at the valve.
Now as for checking the voltage at the fuel tank... I assume i need a voltmeter?? would it be accesable under the truck somewhere accessable or do i need to drop the tank? please excuse my lack of experience in this matter. How would i check the connection at the fuel pump specifically? should i check the fuel filter itself? i have not done that yet could that be the issue?

 

[fast_dave]

@hondaguy1995

Well, sounds like you can eliminate the roll over fuel cut off switch - so that's good.

Understand it's hard to help you diagnose if you can't definitively tell us that the noise you hear when turning the key is your fuel pump activating.

With that in mind, I'd narrow my focus on the cheap and easy stuff first, and work my way up the ladder in complexity & cost.

The 20 + year old Fuel Pump Relay could be the issue; as when the key is turned on, and the engine is running, power is going through the relay all the time.

Do a search for your under hood fuse layout, and you can switch around the fuel pump relay (a big square relay - 30 amps I believe) with another of the same size relays in the fuse box.

When you pull the fuel pump relay, look at the color of the electrical contact pins - if they are brown OR blue - they've had a lot of power going through them.

That's what burns up the contact points on the inside of the relay.

On my '98 Ex, I was able to switch the fuel pump relay around with the Rear Windshield Wiper (inside of the fuse box).

You never use your rear wiper so that relay will be essentially NEW. I also believe the A/C relay will work.

Or, you can buy the relay new for about $10 at the auto parts store OR Amazon.

Fuel Filter.

If you still believe you hear the fuel pump, but have no fuel squirting out of the fuel rail Schrader valve when you press it in, I'd replace the fuel filter FIRST before I'd drop the tank to replace the fuel pump.

Because even if you get a new pump you'd want a gas filter.

HTH and report back & update the thread when you're done - we need new members on the forum - and your solution will help someone else!

fast_dave

 

[Desert_AIP]

The crankshaft sensor went out on my 98 a few years back.
Crank no start was the symptom I saw.