Crooked steering wheel - inner tie rod ends

[koda2000]

The steering wheel in our '97 Sport is way crooked. The tires are currently wearing ok, but the crooked steering wheel keeps canceling the turn signals.

I know I can disconnect the outer tie rod ends to adjust them an equal amount in the right direction to center the steering wheel, but I think I can also just back off the outer tie rod lock nuts and mark and turn the tie rod shafts with a pipe wrench to accomplish the same thing, because the rod just spins in the inner tie rod end. Right? If so, this method would be easier to do.

 

[1998Exp]

In your place, I would spend the $50 for a proper toe-in adjustment at an alignment shop. Even if you adjust the steering wheel position without affecting the toe-in, chances are it's off to begin with, even though you don't see uneven wear (yet). In fact, it may just be time for a full alignment check (probably $50 more...).

The steering wheel in our '97 Sport is way crooked. The tires are currently wearing ok, but the crooked steering wheel keeps canceling the turn signals.
I know I can disconnect the outer tie rod ends to adjust them an equal amount in the right direction to center the steering wheel, but I think I can also just back off the outer tie rod lock nuts and mark and turn the tie rod shafts with a pipe wrench to accomplish the same thing, because the rod just spins in the inner tie rod end. Right? If so, this method would be easier to do.

 

[koda2000]

In your place, I would spend the $50 for a proper toe-in adjustment at an alignment shop. Even if you adjust the steering wheel position without affecting the toe-in, chances are it's off to begin with, even though you don't see uneven wear (yet). In fact, it may just be time for a full alignment check (probably $50 more...).

Well, if I take it to the alignment shop they're going to say they can't align it because the suspension parts (ball joints) are worn and should be replaced, which they probably should be and I may consider replacing them myself in the spring if the truck survives until then (SOHC with 260K+). My Ford dealer already informed me that they would do the job for a mere $750 during one of their "free inspections" while I was having a recall done. I can do them myself with Moog parts for around $150 and I wouldn't have it aligned w/out replacing the ball joints and installing caster/camber bolt kits first.

In the meantime, I was able to get the steering wheel dead-nuts straight by turning the tie rod shafts 2 full turns each in the right direction w/out taking the outer ends loose. Easy fix.

 

[drdoom]

I do them myself with mason's line and 22mm wrench + vise grips, no need to pop the outers. Without a machine I do sometimes have to do it twice, but steering wheels are level, vehicles track straight with no hands on the wheel, and no uneven tire wear.

 

[Flash]

I do them myself with mason's line and 22mm wrench + vise grips, no need to pop the outers. Without a machine I do sometimes have to do it twice, but steering wheels are level, vehicles track straight with no hands on the wheel, and no uneven tire wear.

I do that too.

 

[koda2000]

I do them myself with mason's line and 22mm wrench + vise grips, no need to pop the outers. Without a machine I do sometimes have to do it twice, but steering wheels are level, vehicles track straight with no hands on the wheel, and no uneven tire wear.

How do use the mason's level? For camber? I've thought about using a tape measure to check the toe. I know the front of the tire is supposed to be toed-in a few degrees compared to the rear.

I noticed that the inner tie rod shaft had a squared spot to put a wrench on it, so I figured it was designed to be easily turned for fine toe adjustments, rather than spinning the outer tie rod end, which only gets you a full turn one way or the other.

 

[drdoom]

Koda I tie the string to hitch, tailpipe, anywhere to secure it at rear of the vehicle, then pull the mason's string acroos the sidewalls, positioning it as close to hub center as possible without interfering with running boards body mouldings etc. Then I center the steering wheel as best I can. So I then go to each front wheel and with my fingers I pull the string away from the sidewall noting the straightness relative to the string, seeing if it toes in or out. I ease the string back in until it just touches the sidewall, what I look for is the string to bump the rearward sidewall and a small gap of about 1/8" at the front sidewall. I adjust at the tie rods until I have this on both front wheels. You can just tie the string to the rear hitch or tailpipe or have a helper hold it but basically you are just stringlining it. I do all of this without raising the vehicle.

 

[swshawaii]

I ease the string back in until it just touches the sidewall, what I look for is the string to bump the rearward sidewall and a small gap of about 1/8" at the front sidewall. I adjust at the tie rods until I have this on both front wheels.

Good idea but the rear track width is 9.5mm (3/8") wider than the front. This method would lead to negative toe-out.

Front/Rear Track Width (Page 300)
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/05expog3e.pdf

 

[drdoom]

Good info Hawaii, I shall take that into consideration in the future, thank you! I don't line up to the rear wheels, just using them as string point. Also I am not recommending people use this shade-tree method in lieu of a proper alignment. Koda asked a question, I have related my personal experiences as best I could. Thanks again for the info.

 

[swshawaii]

Got it drdoom. What's frustrating to me is paying for an expensive alignment after replacing a $20 tie rod end. LOL

 

[drdoom]

I know what you mean Hawaii. I put some in a Chrysler last week and the difference in length was so great the vehicle had 1.5" of toe in! Had to break out the old string just to get that piece out of the building! Lol

 

[Flash]

Good idea but the rear track width is 9.5mm (3/8") wider than the front. This method would lead to negative toe-out.

Front/Rear Track Width (Page 300)
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/05expog3e.pdf

Um, toe in.

So that means that back tyres stick out about 3/16 wider than the fronts on each side.
Seems to me if you line up the leading edge of the back tyre with the 2 edges of the front tyre that would be about the right amount of toe in.

You need a bit for stability and to self centre the steering.

 

[swshawaii]

^ Oops. You're correct Flash, I was thinking the front sidewall of the tires, thanks for correcting.

Either way, 3/8" TOTAL toe-in may be excessive, IIRC the max TOTAL toe spec is around half that.

 

[drdoom]

Wheelbase 112" + tire diameter 29" = 141". 3/8" track width differential/2 = 3/16". Angle is .076191 degrees...roughly Best wishes.
Doc

 

[Flash]

^ Oops. You're correct Flash, I was thinking the front sidewall of the tires, thanks for correcting.

Either way, 3/8" TOTAL toe-in may be excessive, IIRC the max TOTAL toe spec is around half that.

Doing what I said the toe would be no where near 3/8 inch and probably wouldn't be enough.

 

[Flash]

Wheelbase 112" + tire diameter 29" = 142". 3/8" track width differential/2 = 3/16". Angle is .076191 degrees...roughly Best wishes.
Doc

Probably not enough toe in but a good place to start.

 

[drdoom]

Yes I posted that as I don't align by the rears I just pull the string from there for convenience. But I also believe that as Hawaii pointed out there is an offset and that is completely relevant to the geometry and how it applies to a shade-tree toe adjustment.

 

[drdoom]

I have been saying for years I need to get all three of my vehicles a proper alignment but I have yet to do it.I have put camber kits in both of my Explorers, but have yet to take them to an alignment shop. Seems like I am always taking them apart for some reason.

 

[intelisevil]

I have Lifetime Alignment at Firestone for both of my Gen 2's. $79.99 for a one time alignment, $189.99 (but I had a $40 off coupon) for a lifetime.

I take them in at least twice a year. If I hit a really bad pot hole at speed I make sure to get in to them with in a week. If they find some parts need to be replaced to do the alignment, I do the work and take it back to be aligned.

drdoom: This way you can continue to "Seems like I am always taking them apart for some reason" and still keep them aligned!